FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: SAcobra427 on February 22, 2022, 02:53:27 PM
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Just tried priming my all new 511 with BBM block and heads and i am getting 80 lbs on the gauge but nothing to the pass side rockers. drivers side looks fine. I also rotated the engine around a few times by hand with no change. I removed the rocker arm assy and there is no sign of oil even trying to get to the rockers coming thru the head. At first I thought maybe my old 1/2 drill just wasnt turning fast enough but I just borrowed another one and it did spin faster but same end result. Cam is a Crower hyd. roller. Anybody come across this problem before?
Thanks, Tom
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Not sure about BBM but some aftermarket blocks you need to be sure the oil passage in the head gasket lines up with the passage in the block. block
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I'm assuming you're oiling up through the head and not through the pushrods.
If you're not getting any oil up to the head feed, you'll have to backtrack and see where the restriction is. The BBM blocks have a threaded hole where the feed comes out of the deck surface. If it's not plugged, then it's quite possible that a cam bearing was installed incorrectly. The BBM blocks use a Side Oiler style bearing, where the feed hole has to line up with the hole in the main saddle and also line up with the hole that leads from the cam tunnel to the block deck.
Also possible that the #4 cam journal isn't grooved, but that would be a very, very rare occurance.
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OK guys thanks for the info, was afraid it was something internal. I was of course ready drop the distributor in and get this thing fired up. What would need to be changed to oil thru the pushrods instead ?
Thanks Guys
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It will depend on the rocker arm that you're using. Only a few will allow oiling through the pushrods.
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I have the Harland Sharp S4006NBK setup that are ball - cup
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not a BBM block but had the same thing happening and the stud was tight in the survival heads milled down the stud a couple of thousanths and now good
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Well I wish thats all that was wrong here but I have nothing coming out of the head at all, even with the rocker shaft completely removed.
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Those rockers will not oil through the pushrods.
If you have a hydraulic cam, you can use my roller tipped non adjustables which will work the HS hardware and they will oil through pushrods. You’d have to change pushrods as well and also block off oil coming out of drivers side head because you can’t oil through both sources at the same time. That poses its own issue because you can’t easily restrict a BBM head due to the thread insert blocking the feed hole. I always grind them down and tap the heads for restrictors but most guys don’t do this before the heads go on the engine.
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I would also Start at the Head Stud. Most FE Guys do not know this but. On original Ford OEM Iron head 9 of the 1/2" head bolt holes are one size. The 10th one that feeds the oil is drilled larger. So this is not a problem for ARP Larger shank stud in iron heads. But when Edlebrock and rest of Aluminum aftermarket heads came out. They missed this on the blueprint and drilled everything same size. Thus a Large shank ARP Stud in a small tight hole blocks the oil passage. This will be the case half the time. If you can remove the head easy, drill the head. If engine in the car, turn down the stud. Then go from there. might get lucky.
Doug aka pumpbldr
Precision Oil Pumps
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Ok Brent and Doug,Thanks for the suggestions. The motor is in the car and I was just about to drop the dist. in it and get it fired up. I have the ARP head BOLTS, 155-3601 not the studs though, would this pose the same possible restriction ?
Thanks
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Well I wish thats all that was wrong here but I have nothing coming out of the head at all, even with the rocker shaft completely removed.
I understand mine didnt either. Take that one stud out and spin pump with drill see if oil comes up.
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I just tried that and still no oil! >:( I did notice the machine shop did do a little opening of the head bolt hole so it looks like they were aware of the tight bolt problem with the aftermarket heads already.
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It looks like your next step, is to pull the head and see if any oil is getting past the gasket or coming out of the block, at all :(
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It looks like your next step, is to pull the head and see if any oil is getting past the gasket or coming out of the block, at all :(
Yep, pull the head, spin the pump and check that the head gasket hole isn't being masked.
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balls
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The motor is in the car and I was just about to drop the dist. in it and get it fired up.
Thanks
I'm sorry to hear that.
This is why I *always* prime the oil pump while the engine is still on the stand and always do it before the intake goes on. I've been bitten too many times by lifter issues and other oiling issues to wait.
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Ya know its funny, the only reason I didnt prime it prior to putting it in the car is for the now dumb reason was I have to install the Cobras oil temp gauge into the 8 qt. pan which meant I would have to drain the oil back out so it would not come flooding out when I removed the plug for the gauge to install the sending unit which is a mechanical gauge and the sender is attached and cant be removed from the gauge. Really seems like a dumb idea now.
Im going to pull the intake and head tonight and see whats going on in there ::)
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Ya know its funny, the only reason I didnt prime it prior to putting it in the car is for the now dumb reason was I have to install the Cobras oil temp gauge into the 8 qt. pan which meant I would have to drain the oil back out so it would not come flooding out when I removed the plug for the gauge to install the sending unit which is a mechanical gauge and the sender is attached and cant be removed from the gauge. Really seems like a dumb idea now.
Im going to pull the intake and head tonight and see whats going on in there ::)
If you put your shop vac on the breather in the valve cover and turn it on, when you pull the oil plug no oil will come out. I have done this lots of times to fix a.leaky oil plug.
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OK well I pulled the intake and head and I try and prime it and still no oil, I mean I let it run for at least 45 to 60 seconds, gauge reading 100psi ( I plugged the drivers side head ) then I go look at the head gasket again and nothing looks out of order. Now Im figuring something is blocking it like a cam bearing not installed properly maybe like Brent suggested. I go back over to it and pull the roller lifters out most of the way from cyl # 3 and it makes some slight gurgling sounds from the oil on the lifter and lifter bore Im guessing. I go to prime it again and in like 5 seconds I have oil coming out of the block now ?!?! I probably had a total of at least 10 min of priming time along with rotating the engine at the same time too. I just cant figure out what the hell was going on but it pumps the oil just like the other side now.
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I have kinda the same setup in my cobra interested in what you found
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I can only think that it was somehow air bound, cant come up with any other real reason ?? The engine builder said that he has had this happen on big block chevys but never on an FE. The fact that once the oil did start coming out of the hole it was just clean oil, no blob of anything or piece of anything came out with the oil.
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Is head and intake back on and it works
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Got the head back on and torqued and I still have oil coming out of the head so im sure ill be good to go now !