FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Joe66GT on October 16, 2021, 03:49:35 PM
-
Looking for a front sway bar for my Fairlane but I'm finding conflicting information online as to which bar fits an FE. Does anyone know if the Addco 715 (one inch dia.) or Hellwig 6707 (1 1/8th inch dia.) bar fits a 1966 Fairlane with an FE? Thank you.
-
I have an original off of a 390 GT car if your looking for an original.
-
Thanks for the offer but I wound up ordering a one inch bar from CJ Pony parts last night. Hope it fits!
-
Just an FYI in case you hadn't thought about it - adding a bar that size to the nose without something like a 5/8 or maybe 3/4 in the rear is going to just stiffen up the nose roll and cause the car to understeer more that it might normally. Been there, done that.
-
Proof of the concept right there. Bars move dynamic weight. If you tighten up the front, you move that weight to the rear and end up with a situation where the front plows. Many add a rear bar where there was none and are surprised that the rear end now comes around on them. Bars and springs work on the opposite end so you have to work both sides and both ends of the car. And don't leave shocks out of the mix. They have more of an impact that many believe.
-
i had mine custom made bigger then 1 1/8. mine is around 35mm just used the std one to copy from
-
'
"I" went to the local wrecking yard an pulled a 1" bar off of a '79 Granada ( they also use a 1-1/8th on some) and for $15 I was in business on my '67 Ranchero. No rear bar .
Randy
9 they also use a 1-1/8th
-
Even though Granadas and Versailles are a narrower track width they still fit well. I used one on a 65 Falcon and another on a 66 Comet
-
I have an Addco 715 bar on two of my 66 Fairlanes with FEs
-
Did 66 fairlane get these for 390 gt/gta We had these on the v8 falcons xy gt's they help stop ripping the mounting taps off the frame. make them from a bit of box steel
https://themusclecarpartsgarage.com.au/product/sway-bar-reinforcing-plate-gtho/
-
My old Trans Am was 1 1/8 front, 3/4 rear. I bought a base car and updated the bars + shocks from the Pontiac parts bin for the WS6 models. Made a huge difference. I used a 1" STAM bar on the Falcon at one time, when it was lowered about 1" all around, gas shocks and 1" "shelby" drop of the upper arms. It handled well but would plow - really needed a 5/8 rear bar on it and maybe some revised leafs. Then I went drag racing and after that corners were just to get the car off the track LOL. Now it's no bars at all and 90/10 front shocks. If I tried to hot lap it, it'd end up on the roof.
-
A 1-1/8” bar can get you into trouble if the front end is lifted and the engine is running for some reason. As the suspension drops the bar will move closer to the balancer. Where the hell are those sparks coming from!
Another thing about mongo bars is they can sometimes get close to your oil filter.
-
The bar showed up yesterday and I installed it this afternoon - fits well. Test drive tomorrow hopefully!
Jb427 - thanks for the tip on the reinforcement plates!
When I plugged in 1966 Fairlane on the Addco site the 715 bar didn't come up but found out later it is listed when you plug in 1967 Mustang/Cougar.
Thanks all for the replies!
-
This is a bit late, but if you search circle track catalogs, you'll be able to find gun-drilled bars of various lengths and diameters with splines on both ends. They have aluminum ends that clamp on the splines. The end pieces are of various lengths and shapes and you can pick and choose and assemble a bar to fit most any application. Both lighter and stronger and look killer so you add a bit of bling.
KS
-
A 1-1/8” bar can get you into trouble if the front end is lifted and the engine is running for some reason. As the suspension drops the bar will move closer to the balancer. Where the hell are those sparks coming from!
Another thing about mongo bars is they can sometimes get close to your oil filter.
I changed my oil filter cause my bar was made as more a road race type bar with stock filter it would rub no balancer problems with the black eagle racing engine mounts i could also set the engine back almost 10mm or 0.4" and that helped more.
-
When I built the larger sump for mine I didn't worry about the 'layback' toward the bottom front of the standard sump, I just went straight down (as can be seen in attached pic). Simpler and I get a bit more volume. When I installed the engine it all cleared no problem....until I bounced on the front end! Oh, thats what that layback is for! As you can imagine this was a major bummer after slipping in a fresh drivetrain. Luckily I came up with a simple solution. Shortening the link connectors places the sway bar at a different angle and everything clears. It also had the effect of stiffening it up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XNZ9XMtc/20200704-123658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xq2XFZfc)