FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: fryedaddy on September 26, 2021, 03:09:20 PM
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i have broke 2 of the long alternator bolts that bolts it to the block,i guess its from vibration.i am using a eld water pump and im not sure if the bottom bracket will fit it.can i get a better bolt than the old factory one.it broke off flush with the engine block,i will have to extract it again.any ideas on reinforcement.
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I am a bit confused, every alternator equipped FE that I have ever seen, has just one long bolt for mounting the alternator, not 2. Yes, you certainly should use the sheet metal reinforcing bracket that bolts to the water pump and through the large mounting bolt. I also have an Edelbrock water pump, and yes, usually the bracket needs some minor modification to fit the Edelbrock water pump.
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For non-smog pump mounting, you have the long bolt with the round spacer. That long bolt goes through the triangular support bracket that attaches to the water pump. The third point of support is the adjustment bracket that also attaches to the water pump. For smog engines, it is very similar except the support bracket is more of a parallelogram. It will not work without that support bracket.
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I am a bit confused, every alternator equipped FE that I have ever seen, has just one long bolt for mounting the alternator, not 2. Yes, you certainly should use the sheet metal reinforcing bracket that bolts to the water pump and through the large mounting bolt. I also have an Edelbrock water pump, and yes, usually the bracket needs some minor modification to fit the Edelbrock water pump.
it dont have 2 long bolts,i meant i have broke it twice
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i dont have the piece that bolts to the water pump,i guess thats the main problem.my son said he could fabricate me a bracket if the stock one wont work,after i find one of course.i have been lucky,i have owned my comet 39 years and its never had that bracket on the alt.it broke a bolt a few years back,and the second one today.its been drag raced,daily driven,vacation and everything during that time with just a long bolt and adjustment bracket.
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You need the factory triangle bracket. Many many years ago I thought it wasn't really needed so left it off. Single groove pulley but it started tossing the belt at high RPM. New belt and bigger Bar to tension the alternator and same thing happened. At some point while removing everything for another problem I found that the lower bolt was bent. Put the bracket back on and never a problem since even using an Edelbrock pump. Same belt has been on for 17 years of racing and 7500 RPM.
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I always grind a notch on the web on the Edel pump where it hits, instead of grinding on the bracket and weakening it. I have 3 engines that way and never had a problem. I suppose either way works fine.
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thanks,good advice.i will locate me a waterpump-alternator bracket and use it
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What is the lightest alternator available for the FE?
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If I was trying to pick a small lighter modern alternator, I'd look for a small case Gen 3 type Ford. If you want real light racing type, then the 50A "mitsubishi" type units are very small and light.
And yes - there is a ton of bending force on the alternator from the belt drive, so the front support under the bolt head to the water pump/somewhere - stock or fabbed - is required. If you try running without on something like a G3 100A unit it'll squeal like hell and likely toss the belt. My fabbed mount on the race car is made with 1/4 steel bar with triangulation and it will still give some when the engine is revved.
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I've run the wagon and black car with just a single bolt and a strap for belt adjustment. I hang the alt from the typical passenger head bolt and no front support. I then make a slide bracket and hang from the lower right timing cover bolt. The wagon sees 6500+ rpm for years now with no issues. The black car has seen 20 yrs of driving and no issue or slipped belts. Simple and effective and both run std size alternators.
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This is the only way I could keep the bolt and the belt in line on my 351C. Anything less braced would at least scream on launch or pitch the belt. Works pretty good so far.
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Unless you are lucky enough to have a set of pulleys that are nearly perfectly concentric with the crank and water pump shaft,not running the support bracket just makes it a matter of time before the bolt breaks.Every time the not perfectly concentric part of the pulley rotates to the side opposite the alternator it tries to tug the alternator over as the belt tension tightens up.A spring loaded belt tensioner similar to what serpentine systems use would alleviate this but it would probably be easier to just make the needed clearance to use the support bracket.