FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: gregaba on August 21, 2021, 11:14:27 AM
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looks like it will be next year [hopefully] before i will be able to get some heads for my 428.
I have a question on my build.
For those who don't know it is a .30 over 428 with block blue printed and balanced cast [stock] crank.
I have a Taylor-Vertex ignition box with a buildt in rev limiter.
Since I don't have 4 bolt mains I was going to set the rev limiter to 6500 rpm.
Is this to high with what I have?
I had everything sonic and pressure checked and everything showed good.
Thanks
Greg
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What connecting rods and bolts?
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Scat H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts and race tech pistons-compression may be 11 2 to 1
Greg
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The rods should take it. What about the valve springs? Depending on the valve weight, you'll need 350 - 400 open pressure.
The rev limiter should be set at least 500 rpm, above your shift point, you don't want to hit it on a run.
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Should be fine. Just make sure your clearances are right and your valvetrain is up to it. Of course a good oil pan is a must.
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Valve springs are Comp Cams
930-16.
Greg
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I havn't ordered my pan yet but was looking at the Canton road race pan,pickup and screen.
Greg
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I run mine to 6500 all the time, stock rods and ARP bolts, stock crank that is 20/20, and a solid flat tappet cam. You should have no problem if you are running a solid lifter cam. I personally wouldn't run a hydraulic lifter cam that high. Others will disagree, obviously...
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Thanks for the reply Jay.
I am running a solid flat tappet cam.
One other question I forgot to put in my first post is a recommended rpm to take off at. I have a 6R80 and a 444 rear gear with calvert traction bars and mono leaf springs.
I don't mind taking off at a low rpm if it will go easy on my block.
I really am not a drag racer but more of a road racer so I am not up on the drag racing thing.
63 Galaxie 2 door post.3680 pounds with me in it.
Greg
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It has been a long time, but back when I rebuilt my 428 CObratJet I was told that it was important to drill out the oil gallery from the oil pump to the filter, and also to grind the oil holes in the main saddles so they aligned better with the holes in the bearings, and to run a high volume pump and add extra quart of oil in the pan if you want to rev to 6000 RPM.
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It has been a long time, but back when I rebuilt my 428 CObratJet I was told that it was important to drill out the oil gallery from the oil pump to the filter, and also to grind the oil holes in the main saddles so they aligned better with the holes in the bearings, and to run a high volume pump and add extra quart of oil in the pan if you want to rev to 6000 RPM.
The grinding of the oil holes in the main saddles to align with the holes in the bearings can be a controversial subject. Just a FYI.
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It has been a long time, but back when I rebuilt my 428 CObratJet I was told that it was important to drill out the oil gallery from the oil pump to the filter, and also to grind the oil holes in the main saddles so they aligned better with the holes in the bearings, and to run a high volume pump and add extra quart of oil in the pan if you want to rev to 6000 RPM.
The grinding of the oil holes in the main saddles to align with the holes in the bearings can be a controversial subject. Just a FYI.
Yes for sure and the 1963 427 block I have has it done to the #2 and #4 mains from the factory. Passage is drilled then drilled at an angle. Go figure...
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I'm not surprised that Ford did that on the 427s. Their official response to that issue only mentions the 352-390 passenger car blocks, and 330-391 truck blocks, all two bolt main blocks. Of course the 427 blocks were cross bolted, probably making them less susceptible to the crack between the main and cam bearing bores, so removing material in that area didn't pose the same risk.
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/oil hole align.jpg)
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Plenty safe IMO at 6500 as long as the valve train is up to the task. 7500 with junk like mine isn't advised however it is what it is.. Stuff will break whenever it feels like it in my experience.
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My 428 came apart in a spectacular fashion back in 2000 only turning it 6000 rpm. Good rods/pistons, etc. The crank came out in 5 pieces and the rear portion of the block was in numerous larger pieces.
It's all good, until it's not. The motor had 50 passes on fresh rebuild and the crank was magged. Never did determine if it wasn't the block that failed first.
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Yeah they really make a nice mess all over the track when they go.
I remember watching my dad blow his 427 in his Cobra in 63.
Never did find out what caused it.
I am not to worried about it if it goes but will hate to lose all the money that went into building it.
Oh well here's hoping for the best.
Greg
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I think gear accordingly , with your rear end gear , you will not need to turn it that hard , pull like a freight train to 5500 will be lots of mph . imho .
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I would like to match my times with my 68 Shelby GT500KR conv.
When I quit racing it I was running a 10.20 at 132 MPH.
Greg
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Much to my surprise it hardly dropped anything on the track. Chucks of block was the worst of it. Fluids stayed contained for the most part. Though once I tried getting the motor out of the car is when it fell to pieces.
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When dad's engine blew it oiled down the track real good. Locked up the crank and wouldn't turn.
My dad and me and my 2 sisters pulled the engine and put it in the 56 pickup and hauled it to the Shelby shop in LA.
It only had about 15 passes on it so Shelby gave dad a real good trade in price on a new compleat engine.
I don't what it cost to replace but we ate a lot of mac and cheese for quite some time after that.
We didn't mind because we loved to go to the races and watch dad race win or lose.
Greg
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I would like to match my times with my 68 Shelby GT500KR conv.
When I quit racing it I was running a 10.20 at 132 MPH.
Greg
That will take all but 700 hp. to get there. That's quite a stout 428.
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I guess I should have said that it was supercharged. Sometimes I forget to give all the details.
Greg