FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: I Like FE on July 02, 2021, 04:37:02 PM
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What can a home mechanic use to drive in the FE Cam, Freeze and Oil plugs. Sockets front or backside? Sizes? Punches? Anything else?
Yout help is appreciated.
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I use sockets. The exception is the cam plug. It's put in backwards. ( Cup out) I use a little sealer around them and dimple the center slightly. You could use a brass drift if you have one for the gallery plugs.
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sockets with short extention , you need a cam bearing tool for the cam bearings , number one permotex on on freeze plugs .
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As mentioned, sockets for the core plugs, for the cam plug, I have a large, tulip shaped intake valve (426 Hemi? maybe), that fits the outer edge of the plug perfectly.
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Socket size for Freeze plug? Use front face? I did find a chrylser Hemi intake valve 2.375" for $120.00,. Seems expensive
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Sockets for the core with some blue lock tight (brass plugs) the cam i use a pipe cap two inch l think it ls.
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Do not use locktite on any cup or threaded plugs. Light coating of silicon sealer around them and don't drive them any further than flush.
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Do not use locktite on any cup or threaded plugs. Light coating of silicon sealer around them and don't drive them any further than flush.
I wouldn't use silicone either. Permatex #1 (or your favorite hardening sealer) is made for plugs and caps. I seals and dries hard.
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Permatex #1 as several have mentioned.
If there is a chamfer on the hole in the block for the freeze plugs you want to drive the plug in so the outer edge of the plug goes past the chamfer. Otherwise it may pop out when you do not want it to.
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I've used silicone around cup plugs for almost as long as I've been building engines.
I also use green Loctite around the small cup plugs on center oiler 427 blocks, where I don't feel comfortable tapping the hole to a pipe plug size.
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For the threaded oil passage pipe plugs, I use the white Teflon paste on the threads. And K&W Copper Coat of the pressed in core plugs in the water jackets, although RTV works fine too. I would not use RTV on the pressed in oil gallery plugs, as I would be concerned about some residue getting into the oiling system.
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I do what you do, Rory. White PTFE paste sealer. I like silicon because it seals well. Usually of the high temp variety. I've never lost a core plug. I don't use anything on the galley plugs except thread in plugs that are exposed at the back of the block or for the side oiler galley.
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I use Permatex black for all, including threaded plugs, but I caveat that I only use threaded plugs for the oil galleys unless I absolutely have to use a push in plug.
I do not get too concerned with sealing internal NPT fittings though, just basic fitting and a little juice. In fact, they get very little silicone on the threads, mostly to lube the tapered thread, but I don't like loose RTV (although it'd likely no nothing at that amount).
I drive in the cup plugs with a bearing driver, I have an adapter that drives the outside until it bottoms, then I switch to a deeper ID collar (or a socket that fits snug in a pinch), and the rear cam plug with a piece of 2x4 and then a big brass mushroomed drift.
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I ended up using the backside if a socket that would fit the freeze plugs.
For the camshaft plug I found an old piece of metal in a old tool case more the 3 inches wide an 1/4 inch thick. Hit the metal with a 20 ounce hammer and with a few wacks I got the cam plug seated.