FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Jb427 on June 23, 2021, 08:06:46 AM
-
I got my custom hydraulic throwout bearing today after a long wait to have it made.
I am looking for any installation tips.
I have a lakewood scatter shield what i would like to do is make the gearbox removeable from the scatter shield wile still in the car this would require cutting/slotting of the back of the scatter shield to allow non flexable line fittings sections to clear when installing or removing the gearbox. Has anyone cut drilled or taken a die grinder to there scatter shield/bellhousing or changed the fittings on the throwout bearing so that gearbox and scatter shield/ bellhousing dose not need to go in and out with the gearbox?.
As it is now if i have to install my gear box and bellhousing as 1 unit it will require removal of left and right side headers starter motor waterpump alt powersteer pump rad/fans and i think engine mounts too. Any tricks and tips will help pic of my style of throwout bearing is bellow. Cheers JB
-
Here are some better photos of the Throwout bearing installed
Lower feed line is bigger pain it would need a slot cut close to 2" long and min 1/2" wide to clear the flexable line fitting and crimp and allow me to bend the line so it can slide inside the bellhousing as gearbox is installed.
-
I can almost guarantee re-cert. REJECT if you slot the can for the hydraulic lines. Perhaps consider adapting the system that Pro Stock uses. 1) install a sealed bearing on the input shaft, 2) explore methods of mounting the hydraulic TO bearing assembly to the can opening, 3) route hydraulic lines out through the clutch fork window. With a sealed input bearing there is no further need for the bearing retainer to be bolted to the trans face and if it is attached to the bell housing instead of the trans the trans is removable for service without necessitating removal of the bell housing as a unit. Likely will take some fiddling but solves your problem. Check Jerry Bickel and Rick Jones' websites to see how its done on Pro-style drag cars with Liberty trans.
-
When I made the headers for mine I made them 2 piece per side with slip on collectors to make them easier to get in & out. Do you know how many times I have had to get them out of the engine bay in the 23 years since? Zero point zero. But if I hadn't done it that way................ ;D
-
That seems like a lot of headache to me. Is there a reason that you don`t want to use the factory mechanical clutch linkage? it`s designed to work and fit properly, has no fluids to leak or bleed, and unlike hydraulic or cable, is unaffected by hot exhaust. But if you are determined to use the hydraulic throw out bearing, unless you want to hack large slots in your scattershield, essentially ruining it, the bellhousing will need to be removed with the transmission.
-
When I made the headers for mine I made them 2 piece per side with slip on collectors to make them easier to get in & out. Do you know how many times I have had to get them out of the engine bay in the 23 years since? Zero point zero. But if I hadn't done it that way................ ;D
I am looking at doing some thing like you did when my new system is made zero times removal is how many times i want to remove mine as well ;D
I made some progress fixed the bleeder side i have to wait for some fittings now before i can finish it local speed shop didn't have some fittings i wanted in-stock.
Mal Woods could of fixed this when the bearing was made but i did not let him know that it was a problem for my combo.
That seems like a lot of headache to me. Is there a reason that you don`t want to use the factory mechanical clutch linkage? it`s designed to work and fit properly, has no fluids to leak or bleed, and unlike hydraulic or cable, is unaffected by hot exhaust. But if you are determined to use the hydraulic throw out bearing, unless you want to hack large slots in your scattershield, essentially ruining it, the bellhousing will need to be removed with the transmission.
If i lived in the USA it would not be a problem finding and Importing parts can be very hard and slow and very costly.
-
I'm with Rory on this one. However you are kinda married to this setup so here's my advice. When setting the bearing height, leave as much gap as your instructions will allow.
This is the measurement between the clutch plate fingers and the bearing. As the clutch wears in the fingers get closer to the bearing. When this gap is zero you burn up the
clutch. FWIW, Tilton is the only brand I would trust. Hope this helps, Steve
-
I'm with Rory on this one. However you are kinda married to this setup so here's my advice. When setting the bearing height, leave as much gap as your instructions will allow.
This is the measurement between the clutch plate fingers and the bearing. As the clutch wears in the fingers get closer to the bearing. When this gap is zero you burn up the
clutch. FWIW, Tilton is the only brand I would trust. Hope this helps, Steve
My set up was custom made for my set up. My only problem was making the bleeder line and feed line in so the gear box can be removed with out hitting the scatter shield and that was only to make it better to service the car.