FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: shady on June 21, 2021, 03:54:39 PM
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a bracket (shock mount) onto an axle tube on the vehicle? Or should you pull the axle out and drain the oil? It would be about 12"- 15" from the flange.
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I would just go ahead and weld it as far as that goes, what you might be concerned about is warping of the axle tube.
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Yes you can weld that bracket onto the axle tube.
Lots depends on the heat required to make a proper weld, how clean you can get the area to be welded, welder parts access, visual access.
The welding process will generate enough heat to warp the axle tube if a bead is run too long or too deep, so make preperations for abating the heat as much as possible.
The welding process may cause arcing through the bearings and gears of the rear end if everything is still together.
One way to help with this is to attach the ground as close to the weld bead area as possible, thus limiting the need for the current to pass through other areas of the rear end.
Get the area clean, REAL clean. Basically you can not overclean an area to be welded.
If you wire wheel off the grease and grim it will literally impact some of that grime into the metal, making it almost impossible to get a clean weld bead.
Do not use some cleaning solvents like brake cleaner to clean the area because when you heat the cleaner residue to weld temps it gives off poisionous gasses....no good!
Fit the bracket as nicely as possible to the axle tube for better results too.
This job can be done, and done well. Just take your time, clean things well, don't overheat, and fit things prior to making any sparks and you will probably do nicely.
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Time for some humor
Title -Can you weld...
My first thought - not for shit but I'm a dang good grinder!
Mic drop
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Yes, if weld point is not on bottom of tube where oil sits. Done it many times. Clean, clean,clean, fit the bracket well, ground cable close to weld area, turn heat up then weld 1 inch or so, allow to cool naturally, weld some more.
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Gear oil in that part of the tube will smoke like crazy and warpage is a big issue which can be helped by making a weld to heat the opposite side, like if welding to the back of the tube heat the front also. A bracket that goes all the way around a tube, like for a 4 link, makes little or no warpage and a leaf spring pad will always warp but the saving grace is they are near the outside ends. A bracket near the center can warp the tubes 1/4 or more.
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It is going to warp the tube, pretty much guaranteed. All that heat on one side will move it, especially since it is about in the middle of the tube. Been there, seen that.
Agree, leaving the grease inside is fine. Might smoke, but won't hurt it.
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unplug all of your electronics no matter where the ground is , agree it should be as close to weld as you can get , but still unplug every thing you can , including the battery .
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Warpage (actually shrinkage) can be mitigated if, done like Woody says. Alternate ends and sides.
If the weld shrinks the tube, to much and creates to much camber, you can heat the opposing side a quench it, to bring it back (takes a little skill).
The shrinkage, is directly related to how much heat is generated in the weld but, you have to have enough heat to get full penetration.
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I guess it seems I have a different opinion....unless you are dealing with a thin thin axle tube, or a lot of welding, I do not think you will run the risk of warping it. See no reason the tube would not resemble structural piping. We welded a set of perches onto a Dana 60. A shock mount should be less bead, or close to the same. Definitely get it clean as you can for the weld, and I would try my best to get the oil out of it. My main concern would be making sure not to get it hot enough to ruin a seal or something close to the area you are welding. It will generate heat yes but it is not like you are running a foot long or really deep root weld. Just my .02 and they are done that way at all factories. If doing two mounts, tack both, wait a bit, weld one side of one side, move to the other mount and do the same, take a 15-20 break come back and finish. Do it right the first time because grinding tends to suck.
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My version of the response/humor...
Title: Can you weld?
Yes, as long as it is on my vehicle only and nobody is going to critique the weld and make me blame the weld on my friend that welds.
P.S. Also good w/ a grinder!
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..................they are done that way at all factories.
Yes, but just don't look to closely at how straight or in alignment the tubes actually might be! ;)
Scott.
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Thanks guys. This is replacing a factory bracket that rusted off (GM). Once I grind it smooth, I may locate the new one a little off to the side so I'm not welding on weld.
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unplug all of your electronics no matter where the ground is , agree it should be as close to weld as you can get , but still unplug every thing you can , including the battery .
The long time muffler shop I use here puts the ground clamp close to the work and doesn't disconnect anything. They work on everything.
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unplug all of your electronics no matter where the ground is , agree it should be as close to weld as you can get , but still unplug every thing you can , including the battery .
The long time muffler shop I use here puts the ground clamp close to the work and doesn't disconnect anything. They work on everything.
I have to do a lot of weld repairs on stuff at work and occasionally at home. Anything from small utility vehicles, mowers and golf carts up to large trucks and tractors. I always do the same with the ground and have never had an issue with electronics afterwards. I'm not suggesting people do the same, just giving my experience.
Not welding in one continuous bead would go a long way in minimizing any warpage. Give it a good single zap, then let it cool. Go back after a few minutes and zap it again. Using air in between to help cool it also helps. It certainly helps on sheetmetal.