FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: drdano on March 26, 2013, 09:27:30 AM
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Howdy folks. I'm upgrading my fuel lines on my motor from blatant over-use of rubber hose to braided hose. Currently I have 1/4" steel line from tank to mech fuel pump, that will stay the same. From the front of the line to the fuel pump is a short 5" section of rubber line. From the pump we go to a big filter on the front of the block, then to the carb. Those are rubber lines currently and the focus the re-do to make it legal for test-n-tune night at the local track. The car is a streeter and I'd be tickled if the barge makes it into the 14's....so no serious
My plan is to go with -6 AN PTFE braided hose from carb to big filter and from the filter to the fuel pump. Now the questions: What type of connections should I consider here? I see regular two piece connectors that everyone has used forever (red n blue stuff, but they now make it in black), twist-lock, push-lock, socketless, etc. Obviously socketless connectors need to use socketless hose, which I'm not sure if it comes in PTFE or not.
Suggestions of what to do from the drag strip pros?
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I guess I'm curious why you are going with PTFE (teflon lined) hose. That stuff is a pain to work with, and doesn't offer any advantages over a good rubber hose like Earl's Perform-a-flex, for example. What is your reasoning there?
I always use the normal red and blue fittings, and I strongly prefer Aeroquip fittings over all other brands; I find them easier to assemble, easier to re-use, and they don't leak.
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The only reason for the PTFE was just from reading that it does last longer with all the mystery additives in street gas like ethanol and whatnot. If regular hose fits the bill just fine, that's a bonus because it is cheaper. What I absolutely do not want is hose that wheeps and smells.
Oh, and I just can't put red/blue fittings on the line...it will absolutely clash with my color coordinated engine compartment and man-purse. :P
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One issue you will run into is rubber does not hold up to any degree of alcohol, so in today's environment it makes sense to use Teflon.
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I don't know, I've been running Minnesota pump gas (10% ethanol) through my braided hoses for as long as I can remember, and have never had any trouble. I don't think its a problem.
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I have had them go soft on me but content is higher in some areas. Here there is talk of going as high as twenty percent. Ca. Is only the harsher state than IL. on emissions.
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The teflon lined braided hose ends are different from the regular ends and are usually steel.
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Any thoughts on hard line materials?
Aluminum or steel?
I used the cooper/nickle tubing for my cooler lines and was impressed with how easy it was to work with.
Anyone use it for fuel lines?
I have a new tank and I'm still getting rust in my filter, so I have to assume it is coming from the 54 year old steel fuel line.
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I run 1/2 inch hard line on the Mustang for both feed and return in the "stock" location, feed on the drivers side, return on the pass side.
I ran alum for everything and use abundant Adel clamps everywhere to ensure it doesn't move around. It's pretty to look at and easy to work with.
I personally don't like seeing any kind of flex from front to back, be it braided, rubber or ???. I actually run the absolute minimum of flexible line I need to allow movement, just seems a bit lazy to run lots of flexible line and I really enjoy running hard line. However I also really enjoy wiring too, so maybe I am a bit warped :)
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i used ptfe in all the places i needed to have flex. i used pre done lines from CX racing & reusable fitting when i cut one side to fit. the fittings came from anfittingsdirect.com .last year i had rubber lines that started to crack for the gas here in california.
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I run cromed copper or stainles lines
Its just not the just the gas something hapened
to the rubber quality.I bought some rubber
fuel hoose a couple of years ago for some
temporary fuel line in a hotrod i was building
It cracked in a few monts so i got out the rest
of the roll i bought to exchange it and the
unused hoose was almost as bad
Same hapened to my son with a different
brand of hoose
Both was known quality brands
And the old hoose he had left in place
probably mounted in the 70s was still
intact
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+1 on Aeroquip hose and fittings, not sure if the fittings come in black, though. I've had my hose from the pump to carb on for about 9 years with no issues (Texas gas). I also used dash 6. You could try calling Summit or Russell Performance and ask about hose recommendations for your gas...
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This fuel business is no laughing matter here in western NY, I have a fuel pump litterly spraying out the bottom of the pump on my 427, My harley you can see the water seperate in the tank and the rust starting to form. I have resorted to fuel injection line on most of my stuff and the fuel additives for alky. It just seems to be better. The fuel pump will be a RobMc as he claims alky resistant parts in his pumps.
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I have used the Summit black fittings and braided line with no issues.
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Another issue here is corrosion, even in the summer the salt remains present on the road when it rains. It eats aluminum after a while. Refrigeration and fuel lines fail eventually casing a real mess. Stainless is the best option for this environment.
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I really like that Black Summit stuff. Really looks great and seems to be holding up well.
Corrosion?
I live in sodium central. Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia. You want SALT.
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So, what I ended up ordering last night was Summit brand -6AN PTFE hose, a variety of PTFE hose ends which are zinc plated steel by Aeroquip and the appropriate NTP to AN adapter fittings which I also made sure were all steel as well. I've never used the aluminum stuff before, which I know works but I was afraid I'd get a bit heavy handed with it and screw it up. The aluminum stuff *should* be used with appropriate AN wrenches, which I don't own. I'll update the thread with how the hoses work out, but I'm sure they will be great. I'm not wild about the braided steel, I still remember slicing the hell out of my hands on old braided lines on a v-drive boat I had years ago.
Salt corrosion is an issue on this car, but from running around at Bonneville the past 8 years as a spectator and will surely get worse as I'm planning to run it in the 130 amateur class this September. The inspectors follow the NHRA-ish rules for general items for that class, so the fuel system was surely not going to pass tech out there just like it wouldn't pass at the local dragstrip at Bandimere or Douglas.
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Any wrench will work on the aluminium fittings. I just use a normal open ender and lay a peice of insulation tape in the jaws and fold it over. Voila! No damage.
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+1 on that. Also, you can still damage the ends by using the aluminum wrenches if you are not careful.
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Dano, are you not concerned about 1/4" lines feeding your beast? I recently switched my Cobra over to FI and had to run a return line so I took the "opportunity" to reline the whole system. I used 1/2" Aluminum hard line and #8 braided on the pressure side and 3/8" hard line with #6 braided on the return side. The aluminum line was easy to work with and I only used the flex line at the engine compartment. I thought it the most sanitary way to do it.
(http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/medium/2013-02-11_22-03-27_299.jpg)
(http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/medium/2013-02-11_22-03-55_800.jpg)
(http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/medium/2013-02-11_22-03-18_765.jpg)
(http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/medium/2013-02-02_15-06-00_303.jpg)
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I've not yet run into fuel supply problems with the 1/4" line that I'm swapping out. However, that is with just test 1/4 mile blasts while tuning the carb and general hoodlum hot rodding. You may be right, I may need to redo the whole system into the tank with something larger, especially since I'll be doing a 1 mile drag race at Bonneville in the 130 class. Time will tell. :)
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My 2 cents: good idea to upgrade the line size to prevent the carb's float bowls from emptying on a long run. A lean-out at WOT is not good news.
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Very valid points. To go to -8AN means a fuel pump swap, full line swap and work on the tank. I'm currently running a Carter 6905 on Barry's recommendation for this motor. I may need to stop where I'm at the line swap now and return what I've got for -8AN and start going down that path instead. Planning for the future, -8AN should be sufficient from tank to carb, correct? This motor is pretty much Jays 450HP 428 dyno mule but with a larger hydraulic roller cam in it.
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Dan, I'm hardly what anyone would call an expert so I found these. Each has some really good info to take into account especially if you'll be at WOT for some time. I'd love to hear other opinions on this from experienced people as well.
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/store4/magnaflow/magnaflow_fuel_system_technical_notes.htm (http://www.magnumforceracing.com/store4/magnaflow/magnaflow_fuel_system_technical_notes.htm)
I know this one is from the dark side but the info is generic and sound IMHO.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0606ch_carbureted_motor_fuel_system/viewall.html (http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0606ch_carbureted_motor_fuel_system/viewall.html)