1969 Q code 428 CJ Mach 1 Black Jade with Black interior restomod project

[Darkman]

This is my introductory post. I'm on a couple other FE an Ford forums. I've been out of the hobby for quite some time and my skills are rusty and my tech is old. So I throw myself into the fray and seek the knowledge of those who are on top of the game. I hope to learn a lot. Please excuse my ignorance as I go through the relearning curve.

This is my standard intro. It changes as my mind and new knowledge effects it.

My name is Charles and I live in Pensacola Florida. In 1978 I traded a 1971 Volkswagen Beetle for this 1969 Mach 1 Mustang. The plan at that time was to race it in NHRA stock class. The local economy was bad and fortunately I made little effort towards racing the car other than installing a set of Hooker racing headers, purchasing a 5.14 gear with 31 spline spool and installing .540 lift Reed racing cam. I never even was able to reinstall the top end (big mistake).

The bad economy led to a move to Houston, three children and life! The Mustang was stored in Pensacola but not securely and outside. At some point while we lived in Houston someone who knew where the car was talked or they them selves stole the Hooker headers and factory chrome GT rims. That was bad enough but they uncovered the car and hood with the shaker scoop opening and unwrapped the motor that I had sealed very well in order to access the header bolts. All 16 of them. Yes I put all of them in. With the hood open and the motor unsealed there was nothing to protect the inside of the motor. We recieve around 75" of rain each year. It was several years before I discovered what happened. By that time there were plants growing in the lifter valley and the block had been full of water for years. Very disheartened I wrapped it back up but the damage was done. I fenced the back yard and life went on.

In July 1983 we returned home as broke as we left but having survived 4 more years and now with a family of two and one on the way but the economy was better and we were home. I also brought home a 70 Mach 1 351C 4 bbl Shaker Hood Mustang but that's another story. Over the mext 34 years working 50 to 60 hours a week family and life left no time to work on my car till 2017!

Two years ago I retired and it was decided that it was now or never and so it began. First with lots of thought about what we wanted, a restoration or a restomod. The car itself was a time capsule having almost all the original parts still there. That was a great thing! I'd even stored most all the parts taken off the car when working on the motor in 1978. What was bad is that over the years I was fooling myself thinking that the car would not rust. It did and badly. Worse the drip rails accumulated leaves and debris which I stupidly ignored. I really didnt think the roof would rust through there but it did both sides. When that happened the door bottoms and floor pans were next. I was really surprised that while the top of the hood looked good the bottom near the front was rusted badly as was the lower lip of the trunk deck. At this point a complete examination has not been completed but I know the body work will be a lot of the money and work. Where I had it stored was kinda in an area I didn't go that often and it was blocked in by other vehicles but at least it was on a concrete slab.

After lots of thought and considering the car's as delivered options it was decided to tastefully restomod it but to do it with bolt on removable parts so that it could be returned to original state. The car was 1 of 100 built in 69. That sounds special but it's the odd grouping of options that makes it 1 of 100. We decided we did not like the Black Jade paint and we wanted the rear Sports Slats and both spoilers. Also a non AC car in Florida, not a realistic choice. I've always wanted a rear fold down seat. What good is a 428CJ with an open rear end and F70 14 tires, really! Definitely have to upgrade the AM only radio and the guages. So it was decided a tasteful restomod will happen.

Up until 1983 I was involved in drag racing with a friends car. We raced two times a week at NHRA tracks in Houston. IIRC in 81 or 82 we were number 2 (Red light in final) in the Division 4 NHRA finals. I've worked as a mechanic in my early years so all that gives me a good foundation to work on this project.

Over the last year and a half I've moved the car to where I can start stripping it down and documenting each piece. It really was quite a job to move everything else, get the car rolling and move it even though it was only a few yards it was moved. At least now we could walk around it and officially commence working on it.

I've spent many many hours trying to find the right shop to do the body and paint work. After looking at a dozen or so places I think found one that can do the work at the level I want. That will start with a total strip down to metal. Currently I'm waiting on a slot in the shop to open up. The shop specializes in old school restorations and old and new chassis and engine mods. They have put a lot of Coyotes in early Fords and have the only chassis dyno in the area. While waiting for a slot to open I'll continue to strip and catalog parts.

Restomodding the 69 means I'm also going through my storage looking for parts. Yesterday I found the Thermactor air canister along with the short hose and special clamp. The Ford number on the hose was still mostly readable. I'll probably not put it on but I want to preserve an safely store it. I've also located several SCJ oil cooler assemblies complete from adapter to cooler except of course the cooler brackets. They may be there and I just havent found them. I do intend to add that option to my restomodded Mustang. While living in Houston I may not have been able to work on my car but I certainly went to swap meets and bought up parts.

Constantly on my mind has been what to do with the drive train. Having had a taste of power while young I definitely wanted that taste back. While the 428CJ is certainly no slouch I can do better. Much better! Starting with a new "Made in the USA" reinforced Dove Aluminum block bored to 4.25 occupied by a Scat 4.25 stroker assembly topped with massaged Aluminum heads attached to a port matched Blue Thunder 2 x 4 medium riser intake will be a good foundation. All that Aluminum will be coated in Ford Corporate Blue. I have two original 427 Holley carbs that will set atop the 2 x 4 intake and a modified air cleaner base will set on the carbs. The air cleaner modified for 2 x 4"s will allow me to keep the ram air shaker hood scoop looking and operating just like stock. The cam is still to be determined but I want the car to remain streetable with the ability to idle and drive to and in cruise ins. With the proper top end the cam becomes an accessory to it and doesn't have to work as hard to make the torque and horsepower numbers desired. That also leads to good street manners and the ability to drive longer distances without worrying if it will make it.

I'll retain the C6 although it will be highly modified to handle the additional torque and horsepower additional I'll add a Gear Vendors overdrive to it. To stroke my memories I might go with a manual cable body.

Moving to the rear it seems that everybody is going to the four link setups and I confessed when I saw there were bolt in units with minimal welding I was smitten with lust. BUT then I remembered in the 70's there were many cars running 10's and low 11's with leaf springs. What were they doing. I started an intensive internet search that led me to Charles Maier. You might remember Maier Racing doing road racing years ago. He says you can gave a great handling Mustang with three things. The right springs engineered properly with proper supportive parts, a Panhard bar and the right shocks. With those three you can turn, accelerate and decelerate safely and very quickly. No sway bar. No wheel hop and awesome launches. One of his satisfied customers has a 750 hp Mustang. This is a bolt in operation except for the Panhard top bracket but it could be easily removed if someone wanted to restore the car.

I'll upgrade to a traction lock and most likely a 3.91 gear that could have been optioned in 69. An Aluminum driveshaft will connect it all.

All this go needs woah and a bunch of it! I'm still deciding but Baer or Wilwood will get the nod. 6 piston up front and 4 piston in the back. Of concern is the lack of vacuum for the power brake booster. I'm determine to try and use the factory or factory appearing master cylinder. One way to get this to work may be to gut the booster and put an hydraulic assist unit inside it thus keeping a clean factory look under the hood. Another idea is a electric vacuum pump. It's still very much a work in progress

I'm not a fan of rubber band tires so the rims will be 16" or at the most 18" and probably Magnum 500's. I dont want to mini tub the car but there is one small area in the front of the wheel well that may need some modification. I'm not opposed to rolling the lips as was done on the Boss cars and really Ford should have done on the CJ's. Other than that I'll play with wheel spacing to maximize the rear tire width. 295 17 are possible and its said with proper wheel spacing 315 18 will fits. We'll have to see. I also have to consider the overall appearance of the finished car. I still am striving for a factory look.

That pretty much leaves only a few things. One is the front suspension. I settled on Total Control Products coil over conversion which is a bolt on kit. I researched a lot of kits a feel this is the best one for me. They also have a bolt on true power steering that replaces the under engine crossmember strengthening the front chassis. The crossmember actually sets higher not hanging down like others. A one inch drop spindle that uses a late model snout for larger bearings will also be used.

I'll need a awesome cooling system for this engine and the anticipated usage of low speed driving during cruises or parades or maybe some autocross events. In any event I'll choose one that resembles the factory appearance but is made of aluminum and has the capacity to keep things cool in the harshest of conditions. A high volume Aluminum water pump will be installed but not an electric one. I'll probably have to use an electric fan but maybe I can use it as a puller inside the fan shroud where it will be hidden instead of a pusher. While I'm in the engine compartment I recently became aware of dummy hollow batteries that appear stock shaving weight off the front end and allowing one to but the battery in the trunk like the Boss cars. I'll do that

So if your still reading this and I commend you if you are you're probably wondering what color is he painting this. Well here you go! Acapulco Blue with the Mach 1 Gold stripes. I'm thinking to put just a touch of Gold metallic into to Blue paint. IMHO that will be truly original but faithful to the Ford design and keeping in the spirit of the proud Mustang heritage!

 I will try and preserve all of the original parts. I want the car to appear stock to the casual observer and only if start looking closer will you start to see the changes.

I really want to hear everyone's comments good or bad.

Thanks for reading.

Charles AKA Darkman in Pensacola FL

Parts list of things I think I've settled on!
Engine
Dove 427 aluminum block
Dove Stage 2 heads
Blue Thunder MR 2 x 4 intake

Transmission
B&M Aluminum Trans Pan # 40281

Brakes
Front
Wilwood #140-12945. $1,154.99
12.19 in rotor black 6 piston caliper
Brake line kit #220-9195 $97.17

[turbohunter]

Welcome Charles
I think I need a nap after reading all that. Have fun with your projects.

[gdaddy01]

I read it all , good hearing from another Florida guy .    good luck and stay focused .

[Darkman]

Thanks guys,

I'll update as progress occurs. Right now I can strip the car down saving money at the body shop. Second I can start the fabrication of the base of the air cleaner to accept the 2 x 4 intake. I have a commercial glass bead cabinet so I can start cleaning, prepping and refinishing some of the parts. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll try to post some pictures when I figure out how.

[blykins]

Dove is out of business....

For aluminum blocks, you have 3 choices:  Pond, BBM (when they crank some out), and Shelby.   

The last Dove aluminum block I used looked like it had been shot with a shotgun on the outside.....a lot of porosity. 

There are also far, far, far, better choices for cylinder heads.  At this point in time, I would reach for a pair of Trick Flows. 

[machoneman]

Get a copy of this Ford manual (more a multi-page pamphlet) on chassis mods to a '69-'70 Stang. Lots of good stuff on chassis strengthening, linkage mods, 1' drop, braking mods and more.

 http://www.mustangtek.com/Library2/BOSS302ChassisMod.html

[cjshaker]

Good luck on your project. CJ cars are almost always worth saving.
You might want to research that power steering a bit more. Most of those aftermarket systems are designed around small blocks, and I think that "raised" crossmember power steering might interfere with an FE oil pan. The stock crossember is really close on a stock pan.

As far as 1 of 100, you could say that about pretty much any car with a Marti Report. When you start narrowing it down to options, interior color etc, the odds narrow pretty quickly.

If the rust is as bad as you say, prepare yourself for sticker shock on body and paint. Quality work isn't cheap, and drip rail and window channel rust is not an easy fix! For a real quality paint job, you'd be looking at $10-$15k...on a good body.

[Darkman]

It being a CJ is why I'm going to extremes to document the tear down and preserve the original parts. Total Control Products maker of the power steering kits has two kits. A small block kit and a FE kit. Undoubtedly the bodywork and paint will be the most expensive part of the project with the engine right behind. Fortunately the rest of the project I can handle.

The reference to Dove was a mistake I meant to say Pond but I have not settled on anything yet and the BBM cast block may get the nod. I have a builder I'm talking with that really favors that one.

The front suspension will be a total reconfiguration using coil over shocks, the one inch drop spindle and high end shocks in addition to the power steering kit and Wilwood brakes. Shock tower bracing and engine compartment bars and bracing will stiffen the front chassis.The rear suspension will have a more conventional look but actually be very refined and extremely functional while having a stock appearance.

Everything is starting to come together to work as one fine tuned instrument.  Next week I'll be talking with a shock expert to get some advice. Still have some major decisions to make on the induction and ill be consulting with some tech experts for advice there. I think I've chosen a builder and a few more conversations should make the decision.

[My427stang]

A couple of comments

I'd likely go with an iron block, especially since you are painting it.  In the end FAR easier to maintain clearances and have an engine with very consistent and long lasting performance.  Lots of passion either way, but in the end, aluminum moves and grows more than iron, it's fact not opinion.  You need to build around it, which you can, but way cheaper and much easier with iron

You can do what you want with a custom cam, in fact, I'd likely go hydraulic roller.  Wide centers to reduce overlap and lift to support the heads will allow it to pull real hard but still have vacuum.  With a set of good heads and the dual quad, shooting for about a 6000 rpm peak and a 6400 shift point you should have a very strong combo.

As far as the rear suspension, don't worry about what they did in the old days, today are the good old days LOL  Caltrac mono-leaf and traction bars, gusset the spring pads, and these cars drive off the line gently and just scoot compared to the old twisted wheels up of the old days.

For cooling, you'd be amazed a how "un-fussy" these engines are.  My Mustang 489 powered, with A/C to boot, has been from VA Beach, to Vegas to DC to Nebraska, and it uses a simple clutch fan, shroud, and aluminum 2 core cross flow radiator.  The key is ensuring the water pump and fan are at or slightly above crank speed, and that the air has somewhere to escape.  In my case, mine is sort of a Boss 9 clone, so I did not seal the hood scoop and it made all the difference sitting in traffic.  However, the other big contributors are a fan that moves plenty of air (far more than any electric that would fit) and ceramic coating the headers while running fuel lines away from heat.

I did add two small electric fans to the a/c condensor but that was because the switch to R134 wanted a little more air to keep pressures right, those actually do not contribute to the cooling.

Sounds like a mean Mustang!

[cjshaker]

As far as the rear suspension, don't worry about what they did in the old days, today are the good old days LOL  Caltrac mono-leaf and traction bars, gusset the spring pads, and these cars drive off the line gently and just scoot compared to the old twisted wheels up of the old days.

Sounds like he's going more for a road & track and street handling feel, and in that case the Caltracs wouldn't be the best choice. I definitely agree about the iron over aluminum block for street use though. You can still shave a lot of weight off the front end with other aluminum components.

[My427stang]

As far as the rear suspension, don't worry about what they did in the old days, today are the good old days LOL  Caltrac mono-leaf and traction bars, gusset the spring pads, and these cars drive off the line gently and just scoot compared to the old twisted wheels up of the old days.

Sounds like he's going more for a road & track and street handling feel, and in that case the Caltracs wouldn't be the best choice. I definitely agree about the iron over aluminum block for street use though. You can still shave a lot of weight off the front end with other aluminum components.

Good point if that is what he is doing, all the drag racing talk made me think he wanted to hook.  I have had great luck on the street with stock repop springs and under-ride bars, but they don't really add to the hook, they just let the tires burn happy without hop LOL

The good thing though, I did notice a little braking help from them, must keep the rear from walking over the other way too

[Darkman]

Hooking up is primary but handling is just a touch behind since it is street driven. With the proper leaf spring package and just as important the right vavleing in the shocks the car will hook. Provided you have the proper tires to hook.

Leaf spring suspension technology has come a long way. Traction bars are not needed just the right leafs. Those same leads work wel for road racing too. The leaf springs do two things. Stop wheel hop, transfer weight to the tires and stop spring wrap up on deceleration. A big part of that is controlled by having the right shock. Large bodied shocks have better damping qualities to control compression and rebound. Getting the valving correct is essential.  That's why a rebuildable shock is reccomended.  I will be consulting with someone that has experience in NASCAR, road racing and drag racing. He understands what is required to get the job done. If my skill level gets to the point I need it I'll add a Panhard bar to keep everything centered on the rear.

If anyone wants more clarification on this contact Charles Maier with Maier Racing. I'll provide a number if anyone is interested.

[cjshaker]

Sounds like you've got it all figured out. I think you'll find that, suspension wise, what works on a road course will not work well on a drag strip, especially at the power level you'll be at, but that's just my opinion.

[My427stang]

Hooking up is primary but handling is just a touch behind since it is street driven. With the proper leaf spring package and just as important the right vavleing in the shocks the car will hook. Provided you have the proper tires to hook.

Leaf spring suspension technology has come a long way. Traction bars are not needed just the right leafs. Those same leads work wel for road racing too. The leaf springs do two things. Stop wheel hop, transfer weight to the tires and stop spring wrap up on deceleration. A big part of that is controlled by having the right shock. Large bodied shocks have better damping qualities to control compression and rebound. Getting the valving correct is essential.  That's why a rebuildable shock is reccomended.  I will be consulting with someone that has experience in NASCAR, road racing and drag racing. He understands what is required to get the job done. If my skill level gets to the point I need it I'll add a Panhard bar to keep everything centered on the rear.

If anyone wants more clarification on this contact Charles Maier with Maier Racing. I'll provide a number if anyone is interested.

Well, suspensions have come a long way in general, but they have come a long way in this forum as well  

I say go for it, like Doug, I don't expect a road racing suspension will plant the tires at launch like a drag racing suspension, but build it the way you envision and even better, build it for the predominant use, and if that's more road racing than drag strip, then you can happily live with a little tire smoke.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Welcome over here Charles.  A lot of good professional people here that have many builds under their belt, take their wisdom and experience seriously.

Be exciting to see it all come together.