Giggling like a school girl

[turbohunter]

Ok, the first phase of the body strengthening and roll bar is done.
The whole idea was to support the entire car with as little cage as possible.
I like that the frame is supported at every suspension attach point as well as through the middle, making a solid system.
I dig how the guys included front end support without going to a halo bar by adding the bars at the toe boards. These attach directly to the subframe outriggers that tie the rockers to the subframe.
Driveshaft loop will have a bolt in bottom once we see how it has to be shaped.
Also thought that might be a good idea to add support to the tunnel under the D bars if necessary ( could be overkill ).
After I get the tranny and a block set in the car on the regular motor mounts we will add some front bars to the plates you see on the firewall to attach motor plates to, tying the support system together.

[ScotiaFE]

Looks great Marc!
That forward bar looks like it is going to take up the parking brake spot.
Other plans?

[Nightmist66]

That's what the parking pawl is for.

It does look very nice!

[turbohunter]

Looks great Marc!
That forward bar looks like it is going to take up the parking brake spot.
Other plans?

Yes sir.
I figured I'd go the Lokar hand brake way. I'm going to have my nephew cut me out a console out of aluminum on the water jet to mount the shifter and whatever accessory switches and stuff I need to so will incorporate into that.

[turbohunter]

Wanted to buy some engine parts as the time is approaching.
Was going to ask y'all about what oil pans work well on Fairlanes. But in thinking about that I needed to know if in fact I am going to use my free (thus very desirable) set of Hooker supercomps for my build. This got me thinking about what I need for my engine to breath at it's optimum level. So, did a little measuring and math (very difficult on a holiday).
ID of the S comps are 1.91 so that gives me a Primary Pipe Area of 2.8652 (3.1416x.955x.955)
These values get me to a peak torque value of 4594.76 (Peak Torque rpm=PPAx88,200/one cylinder 55)
My engine is a 440 (428 block) that will have a tunnel ram.
Going to figure spinning it to 6,500 to 6,800. I realize I'm prolly in the low to middle range of the intake (advertised 3,200 to 9,000).
My question is, do I have enough header for my engine?
I'm not trying to spin the heck out of this motor. So I'm thinking I'm Ok.
It seems a little low but in the spirit of this motor (staying together and just having fun bracket racing) Ok.
Off to the garage I go.

[My427stang]

Marc, send me all the info for your car by email to include bore, stroke, cam timing, valve size, heads, peak HP RPM, etc and I will post back what Pipemax says.  I do expect you will be in the window that it recommends

Also, I have a buddy with a brand new Moroso T-pan, he waved off his project and I am slowly using or selling off his parts.  If you need want it, I can get a price, it'll be fair. Let me know in the email as well.  It's a standard front sump T-pan that most guys use but I can chase down part numbers

[turbohunter]

Thanks Ross
Email coming

[My427stang]

Marc,
I assumed a 6800 rpm peak to show the largest potential recommendation, as well as a 260/270 degree cam with .680 lift.  I chose 110 LSA on 106 to keep a middle of the road overlap for a big cam.  I also used 13:1 compression based on your email,  the 4.18 x 4.00  bore and stroke and an 11/32 valve stem using your 2.20 / 1.67 valve sizes with an open race header

Note that this program uses OD and based-off .0625 inch Pipe thickness, NOT ID, so you are still in the ballpark IMHO

I think Brent, Barry, Blair, or Jay would be better suited for final cam choice, but I would guess that this is close enough to see what Pipemax thinks you need for a primary pipe.

This is a full cut and paste, but I bolted some info I think you'd be looking for

Hope this helps, remember, it's just a computer simulation, supposedly a good one though


Cylinder Ignition Interval = 90 degrees   6800 RPM Hertz frequency = 56.7 Hz
Target EGT= 1284.8 degrees F at end of 4 second 600 RPM/Sec Dyno accel. test
439.129 CID   Exhaust System operating RPM Range from 4800 to 7300 RPM

 --- Single Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range RPM Torque and HP )
Diameter= 1.723 to 1.848        Total Length= 32.0 to 34.9 inches long

 --- 2-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range RPM Torque and HP )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.723  Length= 16.0 to 17.4
2nd Step Dia. inches= 1.848  Length= 16.0 to 17.4

 --- 3-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range Torque and Hi RPM HP )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.723  Length= 16.0 to 17.4
2nd Step Dia. inches= 1.848  Length= 8.0 to 8.7
3rd Step Dia. inches= 1.973  Length= 8.0 to 8.7

--- Single Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Mid-Range TQ to Higher RPM Horsepower )
Diameter= 1.923 to 2.048        Total Length= 32.0 to 34.9 inches long

 --- 2-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Mid-Range TQ to Higher RPM Horsepower )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.923  Length= 10.7 to 12.1
2nd Step Dia. inches= 2.048  Length= 21.3 to 22.8

 --- 3-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Higher RPM Horsepower, possible TQ loss )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.923  Length= 10.7 to 12.1
2nd Step Dia. inches= 2.048  Length= 10.7 to 11.4
3rd Step Dia. inches= 2.173  Length= 10.7 to 11.4

  --- Conventional Straight Tube Collector Specs ---
( TQ ) Diameter= 3.204 to 3.454  Best Length= 17.6 and also 35.1 inches
( HP ) Diameter= 3.454 to 3.954  Best Length= 17.6 and also 8.8 inches

   --- Megaphone Collector Specs ---(  Diffuser or Diverging Cone Shape )---

( TQ ) Diameter= 2.454 taper to 3.454  Best Length= 17.6 or 35.1 inches
( HP ) Diameter= 2.704 taper to 3.704  Best Length= 17.6 or 35.1 inches
Best HP/TQ Tuned Collector Lengths= 17.6 , 35.1 , 70.3 , 140.5 inches long
Worst HP/TQ Loss Collector Lengths= 26.3 , 52.7 , 105.4 , 210.8 inches long

Note-> all Pipe Diameters are OD and based-off .0625 inch Pipe thickness

  ---- Primary Pipe's Harmonics ----

1st Harmonic = 140.3 inches long  ... typically never used
2nd Harmonic = 53.3 inches long  ... longest recommended
3rd Harmonic = 32.0 inches long  ... highly recommended , best Torque Curve
4th Harmonic = 22.4 inches long  ... shortest recommended
5th Harmonic = 16.9 inches long  ... typically never used
6th Harmonic = 13.3 inches long  ... typically never used
7th Harmonic = 10.8 inches long  ... typically never used
8th Harmonic = 9.0 inches long  ... typically never used

  ---- Collector's Harmonics (includes Intermediate, Muffler , TailPipe) ----

1st Harmonic = 140.5 inches long  ... longest with Mufflers and TailPipes
2nd Harmonic = 70.3 inches long  ... longest recommended with Mufflers
3rd Harmonic = 35.1 inches long  ... more bottom-end Torque
4th Harmonic = 17.6 inches long  ... highly recommended , best Torque Curve
5th Harmonic = 8.8 inches long  ... reduced Torque , more top-end HP sometimes
6th Harmonic = 4.4 inches long  ... reduced Torque , not recommended

[turbohunter]

Great
Thanks Ross
So I'm in the ballpark with the headers. Since they were free I think they're perfect
Actually your cam recommendations are what I've been assuming was about right. But I have nowhere near the experience with that you and the other guys do.
Just for you guys to digest
Engine info is in Ross' post.
That will be coupled to a C6 rollerized, manual body, 4000 rpm converter.
4.30 rear end 29 inch tires.

[turbohunter]

I'm getting the Fairlane ready for paint so I'm finishing up the damage repair.
Along with rust damage the op hogged out the dash for a big ole radio of some sort.
I figured at first on just repairing the top that he tore out but ended up thinking it would be a nice place to put all my system switches for it's new life on the track. So I made a plate to fill in the entire hole, figuring if I ever need to I can cut a new radio hole (not likely)  .
What really hacked me off is he cut into a curve in the metal so it's careful sledding.

Part of the reason for this post is a problem solution.
As many of you guys know, welding thin sheet metal can be a real pita. My problem with it is not the welding part, it's the grinding. I'm always taking off to much material with my angle grinder and getting the existing metal to thin to weld. Part of the problem is I have a very small garage and don't have the room for a nice air system. Most of you watch car shows and see the cool tools they have like those small and very maneuverable high rpm hand held grinders. They are great for this work. Since I don't have room for a good air system I can't use those and have to find something that runs on AC.
So I figured a Rotozip would fit the bill as they are high rpm and can take all kinds of bits.
It's not quite as maneuverable as the air stuff but it does a darn good job. You can get small spot and only take the weld off instead of the surrounding metal.

[jayb]

That's a good solution, Marc, Rotozip tools are very handy indeed.

One advantage to not using air is you don't have to deal with the compressor.  Mine has been giving me fits for the last year, and I'm going to need to spring for a new one soon 

[turbohunter]

One advantage to not using air is you don't have to deal with the compressor.  Mine has been giving me fits for the last year, and I'm going to need to spring for a new one soon 

Yeah I guess there's good and bad to every sitch.

I just wish someone would figure out how to make a nice small high speed electric grinder.
I swear Ford must have used 22 gauge in the dash. It's just so thin. Welds had to be plenty cold. And the grinding had to be almost artistic.

[BruceS]

Marc,
Funny about your radio hole; the radio on my '66 is mounted about 4 inches above where your roto-zip is held in the picture.  It's mounted within the large bezel that also contains the speedo, fuel gage, clock, etc.  As for sanding / grinding thin materials, I use an electric drill with a 4" sanding disk mounted on a rubber backing disk.  I bought the sanding disks at Northern Tool which probably has a few stores there in SoCal.  Agree that a nice 90 degree electric tool would be helpful in a lot of situations!

Project is looking better all the time!
Bruce

[turbohunter]

Thanks Bruce.
We're getting there.

[BruceS]

The spot where your radio hole is (or was) is where my main A/C vent is!