Definitely some work to be done with some fitment issues.  I had heard a few times that there were fitment issues but no one was ever specific about what the problems are so I'll share what I found.
Over all the cover fits good, the cam drive fits good as well although I did have a slight issue with the bullet camshaft. The pin holes were slightly oversized,  standard FE cam pins would drop right in and slip around so I ended up useing sb ford pins that are slightly larger and were a good press fit into the cam. This ment I had to enlarge the holes in the cam drive ofcourse because it's drilled for standard FE pins. Wasn't an issue since I have a decent set of machinist bits and was able to get exstreemly close then sneak up on it with a jeweler's roll and get a good snug press fit on both pins. One more thing about the cam drive that's really much to do about nothing but could be a bit of a headache if not addressed is that the advance/retard Mark's are labeled for them to be down at the bottom of the cam gear which would make it really hard to read/adjust because it would be down behind the water pump if you're using a block mounted pump. It's an easy fix though even if you're just useing 1 pin because the cam drive is drilled for 2 and you can just rotate the drive180* to the top. Ofcourse the markings will be upside down but atleast you can see them. Truth of the matter is once you get it dialed in and set it's not something you're gonna be messing with much anyhow. 
Anyway on to the issue's.
The issue is with the crank gear. It sticks out .280 farther than the cam gear which is alot. Looking at the crank gear you would first think there's easy enough on the back side to turn it down and remove the .280 but that's not the real issue.  The issue is the crank gear seal lip falls right between the crank shoulder and the back side of the crank gear so even cutting the gear back the seal is still gonna be in the same place. In my opinion the best way to "really" fix it is to cut the crank shoulder back the .280 so the gear slips thru the seal and back to where it needs to be.
I supose other options would be to make a spacer for the camshaft drive and push it out .280 to line up with the crank gear, do the same with the tensioner and then make a spacer for the cover to push it out enough for the seal to contact the crank gear sleeve properly, then modify the front pan bolt holes and yeah, sounds like alot of work for a hack job to me.
I do think there is one way to make it work as is just by cutting the gear sleeve back the .280 . I think a forward lip seal would do it, the lip seal at the front instead of at the rear like the standard seal. I'm sure there's gotta be something like that out there, it's just in this day and age I have little faith in any parts counter person being able to understand and then cross and find the right seal..  I believe this would give me about .125 of the gear shoulder protruding through the seal..
Any seal gurus here ?? 
The standard seal is a  LYO 57054

Nice write up Keith!  I always give the garage a deep clean and put everything where it belongs before I start a project.  Although, my garage isn't as cool as yours.

Thank you sir, I hope to get back on this project soon, maybe this weekend or the Labor day weekend for sure. Been working 60 hrs a week and still doing emergency calls on weekends along with building a chassis for a 65 Rancho so my stuff always gets kicked to the back burner.  Been waiting on a few small parts as well, I know you guys can feel my pain on that one. I do plan on driving up to Pa for the reunion just for 1 day (friday).

How about some overall picts of your completed project ?

September 7th, 8th, and 9th with the 10th as a rain date..

I ended up taking Thursday and Friday off last week, got some time to do a couple things for my mom then a thing or two for myself. Spent all day Friday working on my own junk. Pre fit the custom Bullet camshaft (thanks Brent) to check for fit, everything felt good and spun nice and smoothly.  Only problem I had with the cam is the standard 0.309" FE cam pins were to loose in the cam, luckily I had some leftover 0.312" SBF cam pins that fit much better with a snug press fit so I went with those instead.  Problem was the cam gear hub was set up to fit the FE cam pins so I had to carefully open up those registers for the larger pins to fit. Affixed the cam retention plate and cam hear hub, everything fit nicely and spins smoothly so I'm happy with that. Took it all back out, cleaned everything up once again then moved on to fitting the crank. Had some clearance issues with #2 counter weight just behind the #2 main. Had to do some clearanceing in that area,  not a huge deal but ofcourse that ment yet another bath. Got it all cleaned up then installed the crank once again. Got her all torqued down, she spun pretty good but I only had about .002" of end play max and i definitely wasn't happy with that so back out the crank came. Made some adjustments on the minor thrust side of the thrust bearings, cleaned them up and back in they went. Installed the crank, torqued it all down again. She spun nice and smooth and i ended up right at .0055" to .006" end play and I'm much happier with that.
Bagged it back up and called it quits. Maybe this weekend I can get the slugs in..

You could ship it through a transport company that fills containers with cars and parts pretty reasonably but it could take 4 to 6 weeks (or more) to arrive. 

Sounds like a plan (and alot of work) if you just enjoy spending the time doing the machining work and making up jigs.
I have threaded around 20 or so blocks for screw in core plugs simply by hand with a good quality tap and a long handled wrench with no issues. Always making sure the block was turned so the cores are level and straight, stick a bulls eye level on the butt of the tap and have at it...