Friends, family, and Fords.
Seems there all dieing off on me so everyone enjoy the ones you have.
Happy Holidays everyone..

Hey Brent, nice job on the build. Sorry to hear the customer has ghosted you. Hopfuly he will be in touch with you soon.
Was wondering if it looked like there would be any possibility to run a 1/2" pushrod on the intake side as well with some doable modifications ? I'll be running some monster spring pressure's and had hoped to be able to use 1/2" dbl tapered across the board.  Haven't made it that far with mock up yet, Haven't even had the engine unwrapped in a month or so due to my work schedule as of late but will be back on it soon as I got some off time built up for the holidays. 

Decided to switch gears and work on something different Sunday night,  it's all gotta be done so why not. Pulled the FE Power intake and adapter off the shelf and started doing a little massaging and fitment work .

I have oil system parts inbound from Aviaid.  Not too fond of their oil pans, they usually require a lot of modifications, but I absolutely love their dry sump pumps.   They will pull 15 inches of vacuum very easily. 

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I agree on the dry sump oil pan, I was very disappointed in the pan I received from them and sent it back. Ended up making my own,, then sold it lol so had to make another and sold that one to at the reunion so now I'm making a third which kinda works out because each time I have made some slight changes.  I knew all those bread box oil pans I had would come in handy someday..

So I'm not on face book, almost signed up a couple times but didnt. My nephew is though and he knows my interest.  He pulls out his phone and said check this out, someone has some SOHC stuff for sale cheap on one of the fe sites.  He shows me the the add and picts and I'm like wtf, that was my shit , the guy was useing the same picts I took and used to sell the stuff back in 18. Nephew left a comment saying they were stolen picts and a fake add and within minutes the profile and add disappeared.  So I'm just scrolling through on his phone looking at other stuff in the fe group and I'll be dam if I didnt come across another profile with a pict of mine from when I sold some old style pond block main caps back in 19. Not done yet, farther down was another pict of the PSE rev kit that I took back in 18.. They didn't even change the wording on the ads and were asking the same prices that I had..
That's some messed up shit there..
Rant over...

I've heard the same thing about the belt drive setups. Our friend called it a "do it yourself kit". They get you 90% there. I'd still like to run one on my next engine though.

It's definitely not a bolt on and go deal so not recommended for the guy (or gal) that expects to just bolt parts on and go. It wasn't a huge deal though and easy enough to resolve.  I'd say it's about right saying it gets you 90% there.
That being said, I'm pleased with the system over all. Seems to be good quality stuff and I'm happy with it. Performance parts sometimes need massaging.  12 years ago I installed a Danny bee FE system on an engine and had to make modifications to the tensioner pulley assembly, all part of it,  just how it goes sometimes.  Keeps things interesting. 
Side note/  I have had zero troubles with the one on my 445 FE that I made from a 351c belt drive system. 

Just a little update,  had a few hours sunday so I got the cam drive system mocked up again. There Definitely is some work to be done with some fitment issues.  I had heard a few times that there were fitment issues but no one was ever specific about what the problems are so I'll share what I found.
Over all the cover fits good, the cam drive fits good as well although I did have a slight issue with the bullet camshaft. The pin holes were slightly oversized,  standard FE cam pins (.309) would drop right in and slip around so I ended up useing sb ford pins (.312) that are slightly larger and were a good press fit into the cam. This ment I had to enlarge the holes in the cam drive ofcourse because it's drilled for standard FE pins. Wasn't an issue since I have a decent set of machinist bits and was able to get exstreemly close then sneak up on it with a jeweler's roll and get a good snug press fit on both pins. One more thing about the cam drive that's really much to do about nothing but could be a bit of a headache if not addressed is that the advance/retard Mark's are labeled for them to be down at the bottom of the cam gear which would make it really hard to read/adjust because it would be down behind the water pump if you're using a block mounted pump. It's an easy fix though even if you're just useing 1 pin because the cam drive is drilled for 2 and you can just rotate the drive180*  moving the markings to the top. Ofcourse the markings will be upside down but atleast you can see them. Truth of the matter is once you get it dialed in and set it's not something you're gonna be messing with much anyhow. 
Anyway on to the issue's.
The issue is with the crank gear. It sticks out .270 farther than the cam gear which puts it way out of alignment. Looking at the crank gear you would first think there's easy enough on the back side to turn it down and remove the .270 but that's not the real issue.  The issue is the crank gear seal lip falls right between the crank shoulder and the back side of the crank gear so even cutting the gear back the seal is still gonna be in the same place. In my opinion the best way to "really" fix it is to cut the crank shoulder back the .270 so the gear slips thru the seal and back to where it needs to be so that's what I did.
Once the shoulder was cut back the crank gear lined up perfectly and there was more than enough engagement through the seal.
Problem solved..

So .280 isn't big enough but .300 is to big