OK guys,
Got the belt today. I wanted to see how much different it was than the belt I initially had in there. The original belt fit down into the V (not even level with the top of the pulley). This belt seems to have a lot more surface area on the sides of the pulley groove as well as sitting a tiny bit higher than the pulley itself (it sticks up above the pulley when installed a tiny bit).
Then on to measuring the pulley alignment. honestly it is a tiny bit off (maybe an 1/8"), but almost aligned. I was curious if I can just pull the alternator pulley off, shim with a washer behind it and tighten it back on. For now, I reinstalled the belt until I can tackle that.
I also took a look at how difficult it would be to angle the bottom of the radiator about 2-3 inches forward and leave the top where it is.... this way, the fans wont interfere with the P/S pulley.
Honestly a days work with some sheet metal from Home depot, My welder, and an angle grinder. For now, I am still "taking that one bite" which is the cooling. Ill move the radiator when things are dialed in.
While I was down there, I reinstalled the skid plate below the radiator. This is a plastic panel that tucks up in the front bumper and then attaches to the radiator cross member. Again, this may funnel more cold air in from the grill and not suck the hot air up from under the car while at idle.
Lastly.... that mystery bolt. Luckily it was not the alternator adjustment bolt! That was still torqued in place and tight as ever. After 10 minutes of looking around under there, I found it. It was a bolt between the # 2 header tube and the #3 header tube. Since he cut the header flange into 3 sections so that the headers can be taken apart to take into or out of the car, it is a bolt with a flat washer behind it (as it goes between 2 pieces of the flange on the seam). Its not possible to access this bolt from the bottom of the car. Infact, you have to take the battery out and snake your arm with a wrench under the head from the back and reach it that way. Not sure if I missed it, or it back out on its own, but taking no chances, I put a lock washer between the bolt head and the flat washer and tightened it down tight!. I checked as many of the other bolts as I could with the wrench, and they all seemed pretty tight. When I send them off for powder coating, I will make sure I put lock washers behind all of the bolts to make sure they dont ever back out.
Curious if that bolt backing out could have caused the ticking noise? Maybe exhaust leaks? Ill keep an ear out.
Anyway, im back in the saddle again. Maybe this weekend I take it out again with someone in the passenger seat.
Until then!