Just received my T&D rocker arm set from Survival and did a test fit on my Pond MR heads. The rocker set is the street type that is meant to be a bolt on replacement for factory parts.



 It all looks good, but I did notice that the side to side alignment of the roller tips to the valve stems is a bit off. I'm sure I can machine the spacers and use shims to get the alignment correct of all the central rocker arms. But on the 2 end arms, they need to be moved outward, and there appears to be not enough distance to move them before they hit the end stands.




Would it be possible to machine the inside face of the end stands to give me a bit more movement of the arm. I don't think it would be much that would need to be removed, maybe 0.060". I don't think it would weaken the end stand much, but wanted to get some opinions from the experts. Has anybody else encountered this problem before?

I'm searching for an anchor bolt from a 11"x3" front drum brake to suit a Galaxie. This is the big bolt that goes through the spindle and holds the wheel cylinder in place. It is a different part to the bolt used on standard 11"x2.5" drum brakes. If anyone can help me out, please email. toddkeen@hotmail.com Thanks.

I'm looking at buying a windage tray for my 496 stroker. I see Canton now make a louvered type tray as well as the mesh screen type. Which is better? And will the louvered type still work with a 4.25" stroke crank?

I've just had a new set of 2.09" / 1.65" stainless valves installed  in my C1AE-A heads. I checked the valve installed heights and the intakes sit higher than the exhaust valves by 0.040". Is this a problem? I will be using adjustable roller tip rockers and will be buying new pushrods after I measure the required length. Will this be okay? The engine is not too wild, just a mild 390 running a Comp 270S cam.

When looking at the crank or balancer from the front of the engine, what direction does the crank rotate? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? I forgot to check before I pulled the timing cover off to do a cam swap, and now I'm at the stage of dialling in the cam. Thanks.

I'm gathering parts together to build a new engine for my recently acquired 63 Galaxie boxtop. It currently is a Z code 4speed and I would like to build it into a G code clone. The car will be 98% street driven, with a very occasional 1/4 mile run. I want it to look very factory stock externally and under hood, though it won't be a total matching numbers type clone. Here's the engine combo I currently have parts for:

Genesis cast iron block 4.28" bore
Steel 4.25" stroke crank
Diamond flat top pistons - should produce 10.5 to 1 comp
Pond MR heads, stock ports, flowed 305 at 0.600", 315 at 0.700"
Tripower intake system
427 cast exhaust headers
Factory dual point distributor with Duraspark conversion, MSD 6AL.

I plan on using a Hyd roller cam, something around the 245 at 0.050" duration. I think that with this many cubes and only a tripower feeding it, peak hp will be limited to around 5500rpm, so I will cam it accordingly. Plus, I will keep the stock 3.5 diff gears and be looking for big  torque to keep the big car lively on the street. I don't want a wild idle, but something that sounds nice and won't be a pain to cruise with. Any thoughts or suggestions for the cam?

Also, I realise that there is a port mismatch between the Pond MR heads and the tripower intake. I went with the Pond heads because externally they look very similar to factory iron heads and with a coat of black paint they will look the part. Is it worth trying to weld the bottom of the port floor on my tripower intake to build a smoother transition, or at these rpm's and power levels is it not worth the effort? I'm hoping to achieve 500+ hp and 550+ ft.lbs of torque. Is this realistic?

Any thoughts or suggestions on this combo would be appreciated. Thanks.

What is the common thickness of intake gaskets?

I'm getting some intake gaskets custom made for my race engine, and am far from having the heads or intake dummied, so I don't know the exact thickness of the gaskets I will require. If I was to get some made in common sizes, what sizes should I go for?

Has anybody had any experience with short travel hydraulic roller lifters in an FE?

I see from the Summit website that Scorpion makes a set for the FE Summit Racing

Not a lot of info from the Scorpion website, although they are made in the USA. Has anybody used them?