67 Fairlane GTA 390 Headers

[ScotiaFE]

If it was me I'd be taking the hammer to the pipes and NOT the structure of the car.

[Joe-jdc]

If you will jack the car under the middle of the brace that goes under the engine, it will spread the shock towers out enough to get the headers in.  Then use a monte carlo bar, or a strut rod between the shock towers to keep it from collapsing back in on itself.  The car has settled in on itself, and the factory clearance is gone.  A common problem with higher mileage mustangs, or heavy accesorized engines.  Joe-JDC.

[bartlett]

joe thats interesting ! lol ... Ill jack it there and see what happens.... If it does Ill look into a bar ...

1/4 " ..... the tip's of my shocks move out 1/4" with it in the air with a lift under cross brace.... The bad is the interfearance is so low on the tower that it realy didnt do anything there ....  A part number for a good monty carlo bar would be nice ... I think it could use one ......

[ScotiaFE]

Here's one I made. I know the car feels tighter with it on.
The actual bar is for a Honda I think. I seen it hanging on the wall of a local Tuner shop and it got me thinking.
I've never actually seen a bar for the Fairlane. On 66 Fairlanes, well one that I know quite well a 66 GTA Convert it has bars that run from the
rad support to the shock towers. These are factory pieces.

[My427stang]

As far as the header contact, not sure how bad it is, but I used a set of FPAs in a 68 Montego droptop that we stabbed a CJ into.  They hit too and took some thinking

I had to move the headers around a bit, if I remember correctly (it was 8-9 years ago) It was the pass side, and I put a block of wood between the header and the block, then put a long bar in the collector and just levered the collector to the center of the car. (BTW I am sure I did it and sure HOW I did it, LOL I just can't remember where it was hitting)

Proper placement of the block will let you work it over without making it tighter where you don't need it tighter.

[machoneman]

Have a Monte Carlo bar in any serious build is quite important as noted above due to the sagging of older rides. Here's another tip to tighten things up: get subframe connectors and weld them in.

Try this trick. Jack up the front end of your ride under one of the two strut rod boxes at the #1 cross member. When that side's tire just clears the floor, keep jacking until the other tire clears. You'll usually find another 5" to 7" more of chassis flex. Weld in some good connectors (I have the heavy Competition Engineering square tube connectors) and try this again.  Usually the other side tire now lifts at only 2" or less, showing just how much the front end has been tightened up.

[bartlett]

OK OK ... Engine is in, Headers are in ..  (sorry for the hi jacking,hopfully this helps you in yours )

This is what I did...

Removed engine, Took a 2" pipe and welded a 2" pipe sideways to it.. then I used black tape to cover the pipe on the t section to save the paint of the car ... I placed this on the shock tower area were the header was hitting. with a 5lb mall I hit the pipe I made and it made a nice rounded dent (pretty dang easy) took about ten hits. set motor about 85% back in and installed the passanger header completly. then set motor down on mounts.  p.s. tranny is not installed  This will go in tomara.   

Headers have good clearance  (tight but good)  In happy with the fit now. these headers are very tucked in. you will have no ground clearance problems.. I can get to all bolts with motor in , you can not remove all bolts with engine in.

p.s. This in my opinion was better than denting the header.. It looks factory and you cant see the area unless you realy look for it ... very clean ...     wish me luck lots of work left ....

[jayb]

Attaboy!  There are always problems like this to solve on a new installation; just part of the hot rodding process...

[amdscooter]

OK OK ... Engine is in, Headers are in ..  (sorry for the hi jacking,hopfully this helps you in yours )

This is what I did...

Removed engine, Took a 2" pipe and welded a 2" pipe sideways to it.. then I used black tape to cover the pipe on the t section to save the paint of the car ... I placed this on the shock tower area were the header was hitting. with a 5lb mall I hit the pipe I made and it made a nice rounded dent (pretty dang easy) took about ten hits. set motor about 85% back in and installed the passanger header completly. then set motor down on mounts.  p.s. tranny is not installed  This will go in tomara.   

Headers have good clearance  (tight but good)  In happy with the fit now. these headers are very tucked in. you will have no ground clearance problems.. I can get to all bolts with motor in , you can not remove all bolts with engine in.

p.s. This in my opinion was better than denting the header.. It looks factory and you cant see the area unless you realy look for it ... very clean ...     wish me luck lots of work left ....

Pics or it did not happen!! Kidding.. but seriously.. post some pics up!  Anyway congrats on getting them in!

[bartlett]

Ill snap some pics for you guys ... stay tuned ...

[amdscooter]

^^^ Didya ever get those photos posted up? I'm getting kinda antsy while waiting for my ceramic plating to get done. 

[bartlett]

Here is a couple ... you can see more in members projects ... ( the flash maakes every thing look scrached ect . most of it is just dust and dirt ect .. you can see where I pressed the shock tower in some .... it clears awesome now .. 

[amdscooter]

^^^ Thanks for the pics! Can I by chance get you to post up a pic of the shock tower from slightly further out for reference if at all possible please? I know it's tight down in there. I see the front of your starter in the bottom right corner of that pic.. how is the clearance? Is it an original "coffee can" and do you think you'd be able to replace it w/o removing the header and/or loosnin' the motor mount and tilting the block? Looks pretty close to the idler arm in the top shot as well that shot.. but long as it clears. 

Sorry for the 1000+1 questions... just painted my short block on the stand last night. Waiting for heads and headers then in it goes. I'd like to be as prepared as possible for any mods that might need to be done before the block is swinging from a chain over the engine bay.

[bartlett]

Yea I'll try to get a better pic .... The starter can be put in without any trouble. no need to do anything other than push it up there.  The batt cable is the tight area. but you can do it .....

Put the drivers header on all the way and lower the motor in 85/90% slide the passanger header in place and install all the bolts. then lower the engine into place .... best Way I could figure ... good luck ....

Oh p.s .. use a engine tilter dealy bob ... I had to tilt the engine way up to get it in cleanly. I used a tie down strap to hook the crank and hook the other end to the lift to get the engine tiled enuff... have fun !!!!!

[amdscooter]

^^^ Thanks for that advise. I thought the angle might be an issue with the length of the headers. I was thinking I might lay the headers in the engine compartment then lower the motor in 85~90% or so. Install the drivers side first, then the passenger side. Once torqued, lower the motor the rest of the way in. I'm working in my driveway with limited equipment and space so I'm trying to limit the amount of "angle of the dangle" I have to deal with. If it costs me a lil more knuckle skin playing about all the stuff on the drivers side that way I can live with it. I'm just praying I don't run into your clearance issues. Will have pipe and mall handy just in case. 

Thanks for the starter info. What issues did you have with the battery cable? Was it the clearance around the cable guide on the motor mount? Or the stud on the starter where the cable mounts?