I went out and measured a few heads.  Probably should expand this list to cover everything I see - as time goes on.

Measurements are approximate.  If the OE castings were decked it will change somewhat (obviously).  Castings are also somewhat variable in dimension.  I just stabbed them all really quick - your mileage may vary.  The CJ heads get lots smaller as you go further into the port - tapered floor.  I tried to get just inside of the entry chamfer when present.

ID                       Deck to roof    Port width     Port height
Survival as cast    2.900             1.490            2.160
Survival CNC        2.950             1.725            2.250
Edelbrock as cast  2.785             1.385            2.065
Edelbrock CNC      2.940             1.580            2.300
D2TE-AA              2.725             1.350            1.850
C8OE-N  (CJ)        2.790             1.350            2.330
Blue Thunder MR   3.200             1.540            2.380
BBM                     2.900             1.430            2.200

any idea where pond heads fit in on this list?

i found them because they posted wedge heads for a 385 on yellow bullet so i just started looking.

my first reply was.... i'd rather just call up kaase and get some full blown hemi heads for half the cost... then i found the FE heads and thought hmm... if these flow 400-450 cfm that could build a nasty motor.

I wonder how much it would take to get a 29x10.5W under my '61

I think it would be cool to see barry or  jay build a gasser and destroy that class.....

Yeah i'm stoked that they're actually going to spur the market on N/A  modern engines rather than just  build the bottom end strong and boost the snot out of it which is pretty much how the majority of the mod motors I've seen have been built.


Granted i like turbos but slapping 12 psi on a 600hp motor for over 1000hp sounds a lot better to me than slapping 30psi on a 350hp motor for 1000.

And screwing the FEs  sucks... our engines don't punch out to 505 well.

ultimately it's the temp not the compression that kills the motor that's why intercooled blowers and intercooled turbos survive better because you are heating the air up to 160 then bringing them back down to slightly above ambient before it enters the engine.  My primary concern is blowing head gaskets because they are too tall or something.  I'm actually good with turbos on a factory turboed engine  I had a 400 whp 2.5 liter subaru running 27 psi on 8.5/1 CR. Now i got ride of that car because i had 12k in parts on a car worth 7k that i could sell for maybe 8 or 10k  so i decided to build something decent.  Fell back in love with the FE (i have an original dual quad 427 low riser too) and now here i am trying to mesh the 2 together before the new engine is even in the car.  truth is it probably has plenty of power n/a but  i'm one of those too much hp is never enough kind of people  (used to be hennessey automotive's  motto).

The drag racer guys are telling me with a decent air to water intercooler and heat exchanger they wouldn't go lower than  10/1  run 4-6 psi on the street and when i can get good fuel (e85/c16) in it crank it to 15-20psi with ice in the water tank (which would drop intake air temp below ambient) I'm thinking 9/1 9.5/1 is really where i want to be for the blend of both worlds. 

Ok this is the whole story. Its about 10.4 with an .020 hg.  The plan was to try to chew up some aluminum and run an .060 ish MLS head gasket and try to get this thing down around 9:1 without changing pistons. It still has a pretty big cam in it so the DCR is pretty low even with the LSA widened.

Is this a dumb plan or should I just say screw it and change the pistons out?

Plan is 6-10 psi on waste gate pressure and then 20ish on race gas with a big air to water inter-cooler and ice or E85.