FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 1976kjell on October 16, 2015, 05:45:59 AM
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Hi
This winter, pushrods, lifters and springs will be replaced. And maybe a new cam. But I dont know what cam to choose.
Two cams Ive bee looking at:
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=33-234-4&Category_Code=FEHYTAPXE
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/isk-351281/overview/make/ford
My car is 63 1/2 Galaxie with a 390/C6 from a 67 mustang, the engine then probably have a GT/CJ cam. The car also has FPA long tri-y headers and 3:00 at rear
I can keep the old cam, but it would be cool to replace the cam
Any thougts about the linked cams, or maybe better suggestions?
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Well, the Isky cam is a lot more cam than what you need.
What you're looking at is a "smaller" FE, combined with a heavy car and a high rearend gear. I would warn against getting carried away with the camshaft.
If you're happy with the power/driving characteristics of the engine as it is now, that 256H cam from Comp would probably give you a few more ponies while keeping the streetability and the powerband the same.
Any reason you're replacing the pushrods, lifters, and valve springs?
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When the engine gets warm, there is some ticks, that is very noticeable. Have tried to get rid of the ticks by replacing oil twice, but its coming back.
Some colored smoke is coming out of the exhaust tip on the drivers side when the car is under very heavy load, i.e. drive up steepy uphills with a trailer on. Had a compression test, and it was 10:1 in average compression rate
So replacing the parts mentioned plus valve stem seals, could be worth a try. And then why not the cam
The engine works ok else.
Low end torque and ok milage is preferred
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Give Ken a call at Oregon Camshaft. Tell him what you have, what you want the car to do, and he'll make a suggestion or two. Plus, since he is a regrinder, he will take you old cam as a core which will help keep the price down. I got his 280H, and I love it. His lifters are made in the USA also.
http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/
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Thanks for the hint Holmes, but I live in Norway, so it will be a bit unpractical :)
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Don't let that stop you....
If you want a custom camshaft, any of us (Barry, Blair, Jay, myself) can spec and send a camshaft to you. If you also decided that you wanted Oregon Cams to do one, you could have it shipped to me and I can forward it to you.
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How about the old Crane 266?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-13404/overview/make/ford
It sounds like you have a pretty good exhaust system, so you may not need that extra 14 or so degrees on the exhaust lobe of the factory cam. I hope you have at least 2-1/4" dual exhaust, or preferably 2-1/2"?
I like single pattern cams when you have a good exhaust system and don't need high end horsepower. I also like tighter lobe separations to boost the mid range rpm. I think the Crane cam would do that while still being easy on the valvetrain.
Or possibly the Compcams 260H. Also single pattern, just slightly more duration, but less lift.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-33-222-3/overview/make/ford
Or if you want to push it a bit more, how about the Isky 264 Megacam. You might want a little more gear and stall speed for this one, but it'd be fun. A 3.50 rear gear and around 2400 rpm stall speed would make it a blast.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-351264/overview/make/ford
Overall, I like the Crane cam best.
JMO,
paulie
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Yes, the exhaust system is dual 2,5" :)
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Yes, the exhaust system is dual 2,5" :)
Cool. Then I definitely recommend a single pattern cam with a fairly tight lobe separation.
JMO,
paulie
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I like a little more exhaust duration in most cases. Scavenging is good.
I also like a tighter LSA when it's prudent. Just gotta keep an eye on overlap on both duration splits and tighter lobe centers. When engine vacuum is paramount, overlap can fight against you.
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If you want a custom camshaft, any of us (Barry, Blair, Jay, myself) can spec and send a camshaft to you.
Actually I don't sell cams, except for the Comp SOHC cams, which I know something about. Brent, Barry, or Blair would be good sources for any standard FE cams.
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I like a little more exhaust duration in most cases. Scavenging is good.
I also like a tighter LSA when it's prudent. Just gotta keep an eye on overlap on both duration splits and tighter lobe centers. When engine vacuum is paramount, overlap can fight against you.
I agree. That's why I like a single pattern cam in some situations. Less overlap. Pull the exhaust back and keep the intake as big as makes sense. A good exhaust system and low-mid rpm goals with a heavy car all play into it, as I look at it.
JMO,
paulie
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I consider if I will keep the old cam, Ive heard about failed break-ins ;). At the 332-428-forum, ive got the info that all 67 mustangs with 390 had the GT-cam, so maybe its good enough. One problem if I keep the old cam and install new springs is that I dont know what spring pressure it should be, if I dont deegree the cam
If I choose to buy I new cam, It will probably be the crane 266. It will also be used a rebuilt autolite 4100, so it isnt sure that the engine will work steady the first hours, which almost is a must when performing a break-in
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I generally use Comp 268H cams in stockish engines.I have done quite a few collector plated GT 390 engines with this cam...Used it in a 428CJ once as well...Very easy on parts and doesn't require anything special.Has a nice factory muscle car idle with no issues..
The flat tappet break in gone bad horror story's worry me to....
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Interesting, had been cool with some noticable idle. Could it be used with stock convertor?
If the break in is done the right way it should be ok, but as mentioned its ok to be sure that the carb is working properly before a break-in
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=33-224-3&Category_Code=FEHYTAPHE
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I am not a cam shaft guru like the boys whos name starts with a "B" or Ross or any of our other experts but..I have probably installed the 268 in over a dozen FE fords(trucks included) and a 100 other engines.I find it is a great little cam.It will work fine with all the stock equipment and still makes great vacumn.I have had good luck with it and its easy to dial the engine in around it...
I tend to ditch the point ign system and use Fords duraspark as well...Simple stuff that works well on a street car.......JMO
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Not to hijack this thread but while we are on this subject ( the exact reason I logged on here today ) but I am looking for a cam too. 1967 f100.My engine is a 352 . just bought headers 2.5 exhaust will go behind it , street master intake , bought some heads that were just done C7AE-A 's no port work yet, 3spd on column and 3.7? Gears .
I won't be bracket racing it but want it to run good light to light and have a lopey idle . what do y'all recommend ?
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Try these guys
http://www.camresearchcorp.com/
They invented a machine that will break in the cam for you (for a fee, $60 US. I think?)
They are Ford cam grinders and know FE's
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Unfortunately, I've heard of cam failures after being "broken in" with that machine. It has no way of duplicating the actual lifter bore locations in relation to the camshaft lobes of an actual engine.
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Not to hijack this thread but while we are on this subject ( the exact reason I logged on here today ) but I am looking for a cam too. 1967 f100.My engine is a 352 . just bought headers 2.5 exhaust will go behind it , street master intake , bought some heads that were just done C7AE-A 's no port work yet, 3spd on column and 3.7? Gears .
I won't be bracket racing it but want it to run good light to light and have a lopey idle . what do y'all recommend ?
Comp 268 is what you want. We've done them in everything from 289's to 460's, and, like others have mentioned, it's one of those 'old' designs that just works. Should give you a good lope in that 352, and the 3-speed/decent gears should make it a good driver.