Is it possible for a clutch type LSD to create a vibration during normal, straight-line driving? I have begun to suspect my 9in. aftermarket third member (about 2 years old) as being the possible source of a vibration that I have been tracking down, one that I thought I had solved.

I was having a vibration in the chassis (not steering wheel) at 55-60 MPH, though it sometimes varied a bit. It was not tire or wheel related. I installed new u-joints, didn't solve the issue. I spun the driveshaft 180 degrees on the differential yoke, which seemed to improve slightly, but not a solution. I then installed a spare driveshaft, which seemed to solve the problem, making me suspect my original driveshaft needs balanced. However, yesterday during a drive, it seemed to momentarily return, and under some strange circumstances.

I turned left from a stop sign under normal driving throttle, whereupon initial throttle application, a little "chirp" from the rear left tire occurred, as if it had been sitting on a rock, which was spit out and caused the tire to "chirp". I state "as if", because I don't think the left rear tire was on anything but clean pavement (though I can't be 100% certain).

I drove to the next stop sign and turned right under normal throttle, which is when my vibration returned at 50-60 MPH. I instantly thought of the differential, and was able to perform a couple somewhat aggressive left and right turns from a stop, and the vibration hasn't returned as of yet.

Motor and trans mounts are good. Inspected driveline looking for issues, nothing seems out of the ordinary.

I'm wondering if it needs another bottle of friction modifier and another "break-in" period in an abandonned parking lot.

Any thoughts and advice?

After a few years of searching and purchasing (nearly 10 years since I purchased the car), I've finally got my Galaxie mostly into the configuration I've envisioned, with a fair amount of help over the years filtering through the immense wealth of knowledge found within the members of this website.

I purchased the car back in 2014, getting a decent deal on it because the fairly fresh 390 was burning oil and the owner couldn't figure it out (the intake manifold gasket, valley pan removed, and umbrella valve stem seals replaced with positive stop).

It was a bench seat, column shifted C6 car with a 3.25 open 9". The LTD/7 Litre grille shells were warped, powder coated examples that I replace a couple years ago with light to moderate pitted chrome pieces. I sourced the interior from a 7 Litre that was in an advanced state of decay, but with a nice interior, converting to a floor shifted console car. Two years ago, or so, I located someone scrapping out a 7 Litre convertible 4 speed car, obtaining the HEH-CG big in/out with all the parts to convert my AT console to 4 speed and OE Ford shifter. The Ford shifter functioned acceptably, but I always wanted the Hurst shifter for it, but the Galaxie with console shifter was long out of production, probably back in late 70's/early 80's. I finally found a nice NOS shifter for an amazing price, having to pay more for the install kit than the shifter (install kit long out of production as well).

The car is a 1966 Galaxie 500, A/C car, radio delete dash with clock (need to delete plate it), nice running Z code 390 4bbl, Big in/out Toploader, 3.89 traction lock 9", 7 Litre interior with console and hurst shifter. Now maybe it needs black stamped steel wheels and poverty caps--I always liked that look.

Does anyone know how rare the radio delete dash is? I'm curious.

I drive it quite a bit, but not much for car shows, so I thought I'd show it off here

Has anyone here ever had their bumpers chrome wrapped? I've seen some fiberglass bumpers wrapped, and they looked pretty good, but I am curious about their longevity. I get my car on the road once in a while and is only out in the weather when a storm creeps up on me, otherwise it is stored indoors.

Any ideas on a price range for wraps??

Thanks.

....nice to see the website working well again, it's been a while since I've been here.

While hanging out in the shop and enjoying the view (66 Galaxie and 85 Supra), I'm jamming to Rush's R40 concert video...any fans here? No country music playing in this shop...electric guitars and musical creativity rule the spaces. I'm unable to adequately communicate the talent of these artists with words--their works speak for themselves.

What are your favorites, aside from an FE screamin' out the pipes?

I just "purchased" the plastic bushings for my Galaxie bellcrank/z-bar (frame side), and am disgusted by the price of these little bits of plastic. Are there any here that are familiar with these pieces and if there is a plastic material robust enough for a 3D printer. I have the new bushings and may set up a 3D printer to reproduce--any thoughts?

While tearing down the toploader tonight, a "bastard clip" thoroughly earned it's name. The BASTARD clip holding the 3/4 synchro chipped a spline off the end of the mainshaft, outboard of the groove for the clip (I'll try to post a photo). The synchros and gears all slid off fine, and I think it is fine,I'll just need to carefully smooth/deburr the edges of the break. No bearings ride on the area. I prefer not to purchase a mainshaft unless absolutely necessary.

Thoughts? Opinions? Similar experiences? Thanks....

I've been getting a whole lot of practice cussing of late, and while I do like to stay brushed up on my profanities, the Galaxie is starting to make me go hoarse. I'm having a problem dialing in the adjustment. I had to step away for the evening, as the frustration level is a bit too high. Here are the details:

1966 Galaxie 390, recently converted to big in/out toploader from a 66 7 Litre, McCleod long style clutch.

Problems arising when adjusting clutch to factory service manual specs. After doing so, the clutch pedal overcenter spring adjustment gap is off and the clutch pedal must be pulled up to put it against its stop. I place the pedal against it's stop, adjust the gap between the assist spring bracket and the equalizer upper lever (distance in FSM is 0.136). When I get the pedal adjustment "correct", I recheck the clutch adjustment, and it is now too tight. From this point on, it's back and forth, correct one, the other goes out of whack. What am I missing here? I have ensured the overcenter spring is in it correct "phase" according to FSM. The assist spring is a pain in the ass--wished it was like the Cougar/Mustang set up.

Can the spring be "out of phase", installed in the worng position, or?

Anyone have knowledge of this predicament?
 

I thought I'd share my ongoing experience with FedEx. I have a complete third member coming from Jegs (shop I'm dealing with "righting a wrong"); it was ordered and shipped over 2 weeks ago and needed to travel 2 hours North, but it never made it. After multiple calls to FedEx and putting a trace on the part, I still have not been contacted by them. They claim 24-48hrs for a returned call, tomorrow will be a week. Shop called Jegs and they sent another one out, via UPS.

FedEx is a horrible company, in my opinion. This is not the first time I've been burnt by them. There really needs to be more competition in the shipping/delivery business (anyone have a few hundred million laying around to invest?). I've had issues with UPS before, but nothing like the FedEx treatment (NDA Saturday delivery of critical legal documents found out in the driveway in a snow drift).

I knew I should've driven down to Columbus and pick it up myself, but I never thought they would "lose" a 60-70lb chunk of iron, not to mention being utterly unconcerned about a customer's issue.

Allegedly, UPS is delivering it today....