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FE Technical Forum / Re: Air Conditioning on SOHC
« on: August 26, 2019, 02:36:24 PM »
You're welcome!
Thanks for the info.
This solves my problem.
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Thanks for the info.
This solves my problem.
I NEED the AC. Land speed racing means sitting in the line to the starter for as much as two hours. Try doing that when the outside temperature is 106 all day. The first time I went, I didn't know how fast I could go, and up to 125, all that's necessary is a helmet and a suggestion of wearing 'natural' (cotton) clothing.
When I went back, a month later, I had a full roll cage, a fire suppression system, and a three layer suit with CarbonX long underwear. I also had a Cool-Shirt and I sat and let the Lincoln idle with the AC on. It's still not altogether comfortable, since getting the 6-way belt system all attached, together with the elbow tethers, severely limits your ability to move. Getting it all hooked-up required the help of my crew chief.
The new car has the front of the engine hard against the bulkhead, and it's hard to get all the auxiliary drive system crowded in. I'll be looking at the all-electric AC. Thanx for the input.
KS
That’s good to know. Do you have the names of the companies?
I like the idea of keeping the front of the engine clean and uncluttered.
My goal:
PS, PB, AC, large electric cooling fans, 150 amp alternator, and probably Jays adapters on a CVR electric water pump (unless I need a mechanical water pump to utilize its pulleys).
Due to fire wall/valve cover clearance restrictions I’ll probably need to use the HydraTech brake booster which will get hydraulic power from the steering pump.
It will be a challenge getting all this to fit the front of a cammer. Hopefully someone on this forum has done all it at least part of this, and has pics.
I got the idea to match the gauge panel to the the factory dash pattern. This Saturday I gave it a whirl, here's how it turned out.
Those sticks are made by Cratex. Specialty made abrasives for engine turning. I'd highly suggest them. Made it look like I actually know what I'm doing.
The process was completely time consuming, took me about 5 hours to get done I believe. Because of the pattern, every move I had to make both an X and Y shift, couldn't just lock it in one axis and do a whole row (I guess I could have rotated the mill head, but that would have required some pretty shifty math ).
Not strictly an FE question, but it is about my FE. I don't have clearance with the short Ansen aluminium valve covers to use a rear breather. I've been looking at changing the valve covers, but the only cast ones I've found are the tall Ansen covers. From the specs these will probably touch the brake booster, if not when I slam it, there will be contact and I don't think I want to put in a torque strap to prevent that.
The other possibility is a smaller booster. I'm a little concerned that with the relatively low idle vacuum I won't get much boost out of a smaller diaphragm. I don't know if the old Ford booster is single or double, and I can't find any info on the amount of boost I can expect out of a smaller booster with two diaphragms.
Does anyone have any guidance to offer? I've looked at hydraulic boost kits on line, but they are expensive and I don't see any that fit an F100.
I understand $4000 for a crankshaft in a high horsepower race engine is justified. But it seems a little excessive for a 800 hp engine. I want good reliable parts but I would think there has to be a crank that would handle 800 hp at 7500 rpm for less than $2k.
My CraigslIst parts. Water pumps, valve covers, Grant Spalding Flamethrower distributor small block radiator and 90' of 1" natural gas line.
https://waco.craigslist.org/mat/d/waco- ... 15029.html
https://waco.craigslist.org/pts/d/waco- ... 52971.html
https://waco.craigslist.org/pts/d/waco- ... 63020.html
https://waco.craigslist.org/pts/d/waco- ... 51386.html
https://waco.craigslist.org/pts/d/waco- ... 95524.html
I did a little write-up on the Tremec swap in my Marauder that may help
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=3970.0
wcbrowning, have not seen your email yet. My email is shown in my profile or you can PM me if you want.
wcbrowning, yes had to open up the floor pan, primarily to get the drive line angle correct and to get the engine back to it's original location. I used the original Z bar and clutch linkage with a new throw out bearing.
I did this about a year ago and had good intentions of posting it under Member Projects. Unfortunately I guess I got lazy and didn't totally complete the write up for the project so it never got posted. I do have lots of pictures and the write up is mostly complete. It covers a lot of the details regarding transmission mount, cross member placement, parking brake cable, etc. There was a few challenges that the kit from American Powertrain does not address. I could share with you if you're interested. I would guess 63.5 and 64 are probably very close.
My car is pretty much all street use and I am pleased with how it all works when I got it finished.
CattleFEeder I guess I haven’t been paying attention, just seen your inquiry on my location. Near Albert Lea, junction of I90 and I35. Mine is also a 63.5 with a 428CJ (AKA 462 stroker) with 2 x 4’s and a TKO 600. Keep in touch. What town are you by?
QuoteHi Jay,
Will that cross-ram intake system work on one of your regular intake adapters? Because if it will, I think I'm going to have to make the jump to an EFI system)).
Thanks,
Dan
Sorry Dan, but the crossram setup will not fit my regular intake adapters. The head is significantly different than any other FE head, and the induction systems I'm working on for it won't fit any other FE setup.
Sorry to hear that. Any thoughts of a crossram system for the regular adapter in the future?
If I can get them to fit like they should I'll make them available.
Thanks.