My stuff.

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Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:   429            Dyno brand: Stuska
      Power Adder:  None             Where dynoed: Houston Engine & Balance
      Peak Horsepower: 486 @ 5600 RPM
      Peak Torque: 525 @ 4616 RPM

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:
D4 Ford block 4.07 with ARP main bolts. Line hone was checked, Sonic test was good for a .030 bore from standard. Would not go .040. Typical oil mods to passage from pump to filter. All oil galley tapped for plugs. Did check for plug at distributor. It was there with small hole.
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size:
Scat cast 4.125 stroke
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:
Scat BBC

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:
Race Tec forged, Wallace racing calculator has CR at 9.28

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:
Sealed Power main and rod bearings, standard. Not sure about cam bearings

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:
Mahle plasma moly file fit

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:
Melling standard volume blueprinted by Houston Engine & Balance, Factory style pick-up, and ARP drive

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:
Factory pan for Mustang with Ford Racing windage tray and CJ oil filter adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050")
Comp cams hydraulic roller with .558 / .567 lift with 114 lobe separation degreed to cam card spec at 107 intake center line. Duration at .050 - Intake 230, Exhaust 235


   Lifters brand, type:
Morel hydraulic rollers 5325

   Timing chain and timing cover:
Ford Performance Parts Timing Chain Sets M-6268-A390 and Ford timing cover

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:
Felony Heads. – no port work. Oil passage tapped for restrictor plug with .070 hole


   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:
-.050 retainer to get spring height correct

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio
Factory style non adjustable with matching oversized shafts from Rocker Arms Unlimited.

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:
Oversized shafts matched to rockers from Rocker Arms Unlimited. POPS end stands, Ford center stands

   Pushrods brand, type, length:
Smith Brothers 8.748”

   Valve covers, brand, type:
Re-chromed Powered by Ford

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:
Remanufactured Duraspark, curve unknown

   Harmonic balancer brand:
Factory unit exchanged from Damper Dude

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):
Remanufactured stock unit

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:
Edelbrock RPM no porting

   Carburetor(s) brand, type
Holley 750 vacuum secondary converted for 4 corner adjustment

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:
Shop headers for dyno. Looked like Hooker 6113 or 6114. MY FPA’s got new coating and I didn’t want to chance them on the dyno again


https://youtu.be/oEu-nLYaTJk

His printer wasn’t working they day we did this. My print out is a picture.

Would you guys consider the relationship between the rocker arms and shafts to be similar to a flat tappet cam and lifters benefiting from oil with a high zinc content?

Is the old manual specs on rocker arms (.843 - .844), shafts (.839 - .840) with the .003 - .0055 clearance still acceptable?? My rockers range from .844 to .846 and the shafts are in the .8385 range.

I am in need of some nonadjustable steel rocker arms. I found Sealed Power replacements for $32 and change apiece which gets expensive for a complete set. Then there is a set of rocker arms, shafts, stands, and springs for about $230 on ebay and Jegs. I’m not sure how to justify the difference in price between them. What else is out there for options? 

Ok guys, we the car to the Mustang Steve Bash in Clinton Michigan and made it up with no issues. We are now in Detroit!! Had just shifted back into 5th gear around 50. The car started to shake, I thought a tire came apart. I pushed in the clutch and headed for the side of the road. On the way to the shoulder the engine died. Did a walk around on the side of the road, all tires are good. Under the hood, all looks as it should. Try to start the car, it does not want to turn over. 
After a wrecker ride to the nearest hotel, I start looking for the cause.
No water in the oil.
No loss of coolant in radiator.
Pull valve covers, push rods look like they are supposed to, nothing appears bent or out of place.




Pulled the spark plugs, they appear ok to me. 

1-4 right to left


5-8 top to bottom

Use the ignition to spin the motor over. It goes about a turn and a half then stops. Hit the key again, and it spins even less and stops. Popped the distributor cap to look at rotor, it turns as the motor turns.
Loosened all belts, the water pump and all accessories spin freely. No improvement to length of time engine will spin over.
I used a long ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt, it was all I could do to get it to rotate a small amount.
 
Took a picture through the hole in Scatter shield of clutch and TO bearing. It looks like it should.


I don’t have an oil pressure gauge, it hadn’t made it high enough on my priority list.

I have looked at all I can think of and went about as far as I can without draining the oil, have I missed anything? Thoughts?

I have a bad feeling about a spun bearing or something worse.

.060 390 block with 3.98 crank, about 9.5 compression on cast pistons, hydraulic roller cam, RPM intake.

To eliminate my tire rub in the back when the trunk I loaded, I am at a point where I buy new rims at a hefty price, work on the rolling the fender lips some more and risk screwing up the paint, or narrow the rear end. Narrowing the rear is the most cost effective method if I can make use of my current axle shafts. I’m looking at taking a ½” on each side and adding back a 1/4” spacer it sets the tire into too far. It should eliminate the tire rub completely.

I pulled the axles out the other night to get some measurement. From the pictures below, it looks like there is about 1-1/8” of spline engaging a factory Ford traction lock unit. Is this the normal spline engagement?  With about 2” of splines available, does anyone see a reason I can’t cut a ½” off the shaft end??

When it comes to the axle shafts, Jegs brand 31 spline shafts, can I cut them with and angle grinder and abrasive cut off wheel? Would it be a best practice to keep the shaft as cool as possible during cutting with a wet rag or something similar?

Driver side


Passenger side
 

                               

Any and all comments appreciated.

Cost of part + shipping. If you see something you like but not the price, shoot me an email with a reasonable offer.



71-73 Mustang disc brake spindles (D1ZA) and caliper brackets. Blasted and coated with a self-etching primer. $125.00

   

     


Explorer rear disc brakes. Backing plate, caliper, and E brake cables $85.00. Can be bolted onto the big bearing housing rear ends.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2fsJNdg] 


Ford FE timing chain. Came on remanufactured long block. No run time. I do not know the brand. $10.00 4

 






Holley Blue Fuel pump that’s been sitting in my tool box for years. I used it in the early 90’s for pumping water into a camper a few times a week over the course of 6-8 months. Never for gas. Motor runs and I would recommend a rebuild kit. $60.00

 






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