Condenser failure?

[Tunnelwedge]

On the first trip with the Loon e Bin the Pertronix failed.
This is our second trip with it. We went to the Belmont show in Belmont Nova Scotia.
The condenser failed. It was a NAPA Echlin FA82. Bought new 1 month ago.
I was just leaving the Shell station near home and started out to the highway.
The engine coughed at about 2500 rpm just putting along. Whoa?
I was close to home and thought about turning back. Nope, push on.

Near the Mastodon about 1 hour of driving it coughed again just a little.
I thought bad gas, maybe.

We are coming to Truro after about an 1 1/2 hrs of driving now. The interchange to go to the rest of North America is closed and detours a plenty. We were stopping for gas and late lunch in Truro and pulled off on a side road to go down to the town centre.
We are at an intersection in traffic and it starts coughing bad and shuts off. Ok.

Plan B
I waited until the temp gauge read 160*f and tried to start it.
No joy. damn
I went to the trunk and got the baggy of ignition parts I brought with me.
Installed the used condenser I took out of another ignition just before we left.
Got everything put away and go for start.
Fires right up. Happiness and joy.

I smoked the tires as I was leaving the show, I hope someone was recording.

Condenser recommendations?




 
 
 

[Urgefor]

What is the need for a condenser with the Pertronix conversion?  My understanding of the condenser is to extend the life of the contact points by helping to reduce electrical arcing when the contacts open and close.  Since the Pertronix kit eliminates the points, the condenser should no longer be required. Possible the coil being used with the conversion kit is the root cause?

[Tunnelwedge]

When the Pertronix failed I removed it in a NAPA parking lot and changed back to points.
I purchased a coil, points and condenser from NAPA.
The three parts were all Echlin. Coil IC14, Points CS751, and Condenser FA82.
The coil says it can handle 12 volts on the side of the can.

I am running the full 12 volts to the coil so that could have an effect on the condenser.
It would be difficult to go back to the pink resistor wire. I cut it out years ago when I was
using a MSD box. That's gone also.

I guess I would be looking for a condenser that can handle the 12 volts.
Is that something that is out there.

[Urgefor]

When the Pertronix failed I removed it in a NAPA parking lot and changed back to points.
I purchased a coil, points and condenser from NAPA.
The three parts were all Echlin. Coil IC14, Points CS751, and Condenser FA82.

Gotcha.

I couldn't find any specs for the FA82 condenser nor the FA8200 (NAPA's description "High Performance;w/o Transistorized Ignition") condenser that they sell.  Most likely either should work. Possible you got a new condenser that was defective in some way out of the box. That never happens these days, right?  In general a condenser that is 0.22 microfarad and good for 400v to 600v should work just fine.

[My427stang]

I would look at your running voltage at the positive side of the coil, after warming the car up and letting the batter recharge post start. 

If you see 12+V, or even 14+ volts, you will eat points regularly, if not points and condensers and probably why the Pertronix failed.  You can add resistor like Mopar ran and they work well

Also make sure you have your original ground wire on the points plate

[jayb]

You could use an external ballast resistor like the Mopars did back in the day.  12V constantly to a standard coil will shorten its life.

[70tp]

If the coil says it’s compatible with 12v, then they are supposed to have a resistor built into them    I have run a resistor with a coil that says 12v compatible before with no ill effects.  Spark voltage may suffer.  Condenser quality isn’t what it was a few yrs ago    I have mounted larger ones outside of the distributor before on problem applications

[Heo]

http://brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/universal/index.htm

I use this condenser replacement/substitute on my AJS motorcycle
they have an universal one 0.22 microfarad  for13 £

[Tunnelwedge]

The coil says 12V no external resistor required.
The voltage gauge reads like 14V when running and has the stock type alternator and voltage regulator.
I was thinking in the future I would use the points to trigger an ignition box.
The car is wired to run a box and use a 2 step for launch control and clutch safety switch and battery disconnect switch.






 
 

[Heo]

I use a Duraspark dist to trigger my ign box on the Galaxie

[My427stang]

Regardless what the coil says, the coil isn't what I am concerned about with line voltage, it's the points and condenser. 

I have never seen a coil fail due to voltage, but all points equipped cars are set up to only get line voltage during crank and then go through a resistor during run.  It's just how they are wired, Ford, Chevy, Mopar, all hard their own way, but all did it

If you decide to trigger an MSD with points, they will see little power and last a very long time.  It works well

[cjshaker]

If you decide to trigger an MSD with points, they will see little power and last a very long time.  It works well

I triggered the MSD Blaster in my Highboy for 25 years using ONE set of points. They do last forever, I just checked the gap occasionally to make sure there was one. Dwell doesn't matter, so gap is not important, and the voltage is so low that arcing is non-existent. Engine never went over 5500, so bounce was not an issue. If the box ever went bad (never happened), all I had to do was switch a couple of wires and I was back on my way with a stock set-up. Best of both worlds, in my opinion. BTW, that Blaster is now in my '70 F350. Been going strong for 30 years now.