Thanks for the advice, it looks like I'll plan to do discs and MC swap at the same time. The MC and lines part looks the hardest to me. I've watched some wilwood installs and the hardware at the wheels looks more straight forward, mostly because you can get to everything. I'm not sure how I'm going to get at the distribution block yet.

My end goal is to get discs up front, but wanted to start off replacing the single bowl MC with a dual bowl setup.
I've never done this before so I'm trying to figure out what all I will need to do.
I am thinking of going ahead and getting a setup with the proportioning valve so that will be there when I start with the discs. Is there an issue doing that? Is the master cylinder going to be the same for drum/drum, or will that be different for a disc/drum setup? I have seen mention of residual valves, is that something I've got to have as well?
For the lines, how are the current lines tied back in since the distribution block is not going to be used?

Thanks for any and all pointers!

Dan

Probably should just get a new one.

Hi Chief,

Have appended a link, I think to be honest they are all the same but packaged differently. I'd just contact one of the vendors like Brent and grab a steel or alloy replacement and not worry about the sleeve?
 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-16213/applications/make/ford


Graeme

Oh, it's not pretty in the internals at all. The blowby is so bad I suspect the rings are just shot.

Watch that #6 cylinder, something is going on there.

I think I may have been completely wrong about issue. Just pulled the plugs and found #6 was gummed up so badly there was no gap to jump. Cleaned it up and put it back in and car seems much better. Saw no evidence of water on plugs or the bit I could see in the chamber. Pulled valve covers, and while they definetly show their age, I really didn't see any milky white sludge. There was a bit, but I am wondering it that is from me not getting a good seal when I replaced cover gaskets.
Drove the car around and got temp up, then checked the dipstick. No evidence of water there either.

It's a 390 to 390 swap.
New motor is stroked and will be around 430ci. NOthing too exotic other than Edelbrock heads.

What are the specs of your replacement engine?  It is for this car right?

Motor is original to car(63 Colony Park) and never rebuilt to my knowledge.

In my experience, if the decks were clean and the head gaskets new when installed, it's rare to have an issue.  Debris, contamination of the deck surface(s) or wrong bolt torque will cause an issue.  Head gasket issues will show up right off, they don't wait.  Intakes on the other had will lull you to sleep then ruin your day.  

I have a Stant cooling system tester, bought off eBay.  It's the tool I use to pressure up and check engine/cooling system before ever sticking a motor in a car.  I was also just using it on the dragster cooling system for checks.  Id'd motor plate to pump gasket seal issues right off.  Worth every $ I paid for it.