Front suspension conversion on 67 Fairlane.

[MeanMofakee]

I want to install a double A-arm coilover with r&p steering on a 67 Fairlane car that is just beginning the build process. Main reason is to eliminate the shock towers and provide some better handling (hopefully) and braking. It seems to me that a lot but not all members here are purists of some sort and may not subscribe to my idea. That's fine and I will consider everybody's input equally. The research that I've been able to come up with is that all of the manufactured units of this type will lower ride height somewhat, the manufacturers won't or can't tell you exactly how much. They offer different spindle options from std. to 2" drop. Some of them also state lower engine location to help with COG as well. My biggest concerns are first and foremost, ground clearance, both oil pan and header. With the need to use a rear sump pan with significantly increased capacity along with limited choice for headers with max clearance, I'm starting to have concerns with a car that sits to low in the front, too high in the rear and just doesn't work. Secondly, will a car with that style front and leafs out back be able to be set up for respectable launches when participating in an occasional grudge/street race. I know there are a lot of other things that go into the equation, but starting with the basics. Don't want to build a race car with some street manners, want a street car that thinks it's a race car. Like a lot of things, I get thinking in one direction and end up turning the other, or worse case just plow ahead and regret it! Thanks for any input that you guys can add to help me with this. What are my options?

[MeanMofakee]

I guess I should have added, what brands of suspensions did any of you use and was there any issues that you encountered that relate to my concerns from first post.

[mbrunson427]

Honestly, I think rack and pinion turns into a major pain in the butt. If you're actually going to road race, that's a different story, but for street stuff it's probably wasted effort. Got a '68 Cougar, it has global west control arms, the higher spring rate springs, and a flaming river box. It does everything it needs to, has that pro-touring look too. Then you can at least buy bolt-on parts for it.

My uncle did a '64 Fairlane drag car about 8 years ago and he had to do a rack and pinion front end because the front end sheetmetal was in terrible shape. He made custom headers, custom oil pan, had to redo the steering column. It was a good chunk of work. When all was done, he was still unhappy because the springs were short and didn't allow for great weight transfer.

I've become a big advocate of purpose building cars. Try to get a car that does too many things, and it does nothing well.

[jayb]

I don't have any direct experience with a Fairlane, but I'll tell you about the other front suspension swaps I've done, one on my Galaxie and one in my Shelby clone.  On the Galaxie I used an Art Morrison weld-in front clip and a Mustang II style front suspension (with tubular control arms and coil overs, not stock Mustang II parts).  I bought Wilwood front disc brakes to match this setup.  That kit used a front steer rack, and required a rear sump oil pan.  That one worked out very well, and the car rides, steers, and handles MUCH better than stock with that setup.

On my Shelby clone I used a Fatman Fabrications front strut kit.  This kit uses late model Mustang spindles, rotors and brake calipers, and an Escort rack and pinion.  This setup is a rear steer rack, so you can still use a front sump pan.  There is a chassis plate that bolts into the the stock lower control arm mounts, so it looked like it would be fairly easy to install.  However, the quality of the kit was poor, and one thing they didn't tell you about was that the kit reduced the front track width by 4"!  I ended up extending the lower control arms that came with the kit to make up the difference in track width.  Calls to the manufacturer were not helpful during the installation.  But, I was able to modify the kit enough to move the front struts outboard and eliminate the shock towers. And, now that it is installed, it drives and handles pretty well.  I wouldn't say its a lot better than the stock Mustang setup, but it is certainly lighter and steering with the rack is an improvement over the factory steering box, in my opinion, although the turning radius has increased somewhat.

If it was me, I'd be looking at the Art Morrison stuff...

[MeanMofakee]

Well so far it looks like 1 thumbs down, 1 thumbs up. Just about the ratio I was expecting to see. LOL The fabrication/welding part of doing something like this is not a concern as that's what I've done for a living most of my life, just not hot rod stuff. The issue is the knowledge that only comes from the experience of building a few cars and learning what doesn't work, what works, and what works better! Not afraid to start on a project like this, and it's not really the cost of doing it right (most of this stuff is too expensive to do 2-3 times over) it's the time factor. It's kind of on my bucket list to build a hot rod while I'm still somewhat able, just not to sure how long a guy has. Not worried about tippin over, but I've got some other things I would like to do also. Would love to get a car done to enjoy and have something to leave the grandson.

[scott foxwell]

If you do a rack conversion it may cause more header issues than staying with a box. I'm going to do a strut conversion on my 67 Fairlane and keep the steering box. A rack conversion, from what I've read, will give you more header headaches, at least with a front steer. With the strut conversion, you lose the upper control arm and can notch the shock towers. There are very few "Mustang II" suspension conversions that interest me. If I was going to so a SLA suspension I'd be looking at something that was designed from scratch. Most of what you're going to find are systems that are for Mustangs and will need some modification or adaptation. There are a few systems offered for Fairlanes, but you have to search for them. Google is your friend. I've spent hours and hours on Google and probably have a hundred pictures on this very subject.
As far as rear leafs, Calvert is the answer and there are some VERY fast, hard launching cars running leafs and Calverts. That is not an issue.

[wowens]

I used Rod & Custom Motorsports on my 67 Mustang, Kit for Fairlane ava & I will use it if I ever find a Fairlane. Headers were custom built by me, modified steering column, custom rear sump pan, external oil pump. Very positive steering feel, apx 4" up travel, install position critical, width stayed same. Overall, I like it. Went 10.31 with wheels up 3 or 4", ladder bars, drove to track, put on slicks, lots of fun. Rich guy at track had more $ than sense, sold it. Want a 66 Fairlane.

[Falcon67]

I haven't done it - considered it - and I'm with Jay, I'd look at one of the "real" chassis builders for a clip.  I worry that the glom on units using welded crossmembers put a different set of stresses on the front inner fenders that the original design.  Not a problem if the car is 10 point caged with runners out into the engine compartment over the upper strut/shock mounts.  But if you are going to bang on it any, I would consider a clip and full connectors in the floor to stiffen the chassis front to rear.  That way you have your ride height and all the technical stuff like anti-dive and such are done as a unit on a jig.  Also nothing wrong with a strut type setup, maybe something like the Total Control deal that uses some late model parts.  You should opt for tunable shock or strut because weight and chassis reaction are not going to be "off the shelf". 

As noted, it may cost you as much for headers and oil pan work as the chassis mods.  Lots of people don't seem to think about that, "the kit is only $1995!"  Then they get on their favorite web list and whine that nothing fits but the bare block.  This is hot rodding people!  You'll spend much time with dial indicators fussing over  .001 only to follow up with a 2 lb hammer, 1/2 drill and cutting torch.

I would personally like to mod the Falcon (same as your Fairlane) to take the motor from the dragster so I could play door car guy sometimes, but that big long oil pan pretty well shoots that deal I think.  I'd have to use a subframe kit of some sort because the rack would have to be forward of the engine.

[MeanMofakee]

Thanks for all the great input guy's! This is going to turn into a bigger deal than what I was planning. That's all good, like I said before, I want to get this right the first time and not have any regrets with the direction I decide to go. You're opinions coupled with the real world results are most beneficial to me. Anybody have anything to add I'm all ears. Maybe some photos also if that is possible!

[Falcon67]

Most important is that you go at it with the right attitude - which it sounds like you have, want it done well and right.  And, that it's for your satisfaction and not others.  Enjoy the process!  My dragster project took a year from roller to racer, lots of false starts, "how's that gonna work", how's that going to fit, what to do about parts that flat don't exist.  Lots of fab work and just sitting by the car thinking.  Wife is like "tell me again why you're doing this"  "Because it's a challenge and it's fun."  I still kid my footbrake friends that I intend to bolt some door handles on it by the cage.

Also, I have the second "secret" desire to go all out on the Falcon - struts, tubs, 31x14.5 tires, narrow rear, punched 460 or large 351C with a tunnel ram, all 4 doors. 

[preaction]

Are the Art Morrison front clips ford specific ?

[jimeast]

For performance suspension, the coil-over suspensions that use the stock towers by Street or Track and Mike Maier are hard to beat and great on the track and the street.  If I was going to cut out the front clip and put a different type of suspension in, I'd use Griggs if they are still around, but it's a cubic dollar solution that might not be any better than the above listed.  One thing about the Mustang II type suspensions is they provide a nice combination of upgrades (R&P, Coil over and disc brakes) for the overall cost, but they do not handle better than the systems mentioned above that use a stock tower.

As far as shock tower removal, I like the shock tower mods that duplicate or emulate the Boss 429 towers.  http://www.bosskraft.com/boss-429-powered-67.html.  If you have not seen this shock tower, it might offer you a few ideas for your project. 

As far as R&P steering, you get what you pay for and Total Control Products makes a very nice R&P, but don't underestimate the capability of the stock steering when it's dialed in.

Sounds like a fun project,  I went back & forth on my goals quite a bit and have decided to start with a vintage setup from Opentracker and Street or Track and see how big the difference is over the 50 yr old tired suspension and then upgrade to a SoT coil over if I think something is lacking

[jayb]

Are the Art Morrison front clips ford specific ?

No, they are universal.

[Falcon67]

Are the Art Morrison front clips ford specific ?

As above - BUT, these chassis people have done a lot over the years and can very likely tailor the clip to your exact needs. 

I like the Boss towers, that's a more cost effective solution to what I'd like to do.  Dynacorn shows them in their catalog, about $300 a pop.  Part 3631HA (RH) & HB (LH)
http://dynacorndepot.com/shock-towernotched-kit-rh-1967-68-3631ha-mustang-67-68

I'd also add that for handling with the stock type suspension, go get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification book before you go spend a bunch on new fangled suspension parts. 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/book-boss-302-chassis-modification/p/BKBCM/

Between that and parts from people like Global West, you can make a Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane handle like a Trams Am car.

[scott foxwell]

Are the Art Morrison front clips ford specific ?

As above - BUT, these chassis people have done a lot over the years and can very likely tailor the clip to your exact needs. 

I like the Boss towers, that's a more cost effective solution to what I'd like to do. Dynacorn shows them in their catalog, about $300 a pop.  Part 3631HA (RH) & HB (LH)
http://dynacorndepot.com/shock-towernotched-kit-rh-1967-68-3631ha-mustang-67-68

I'd also add that for handling with the stock type suspension, go get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification book before you go spend a bunch on new fangled suspension parts. 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/book-boss-302-chassis-modification/p/BKBCM/

Between that and parts from people like Global West, you can make a Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane handle like a Trams Am car.

Too bad they don't have that  set up for a Fairlane.

[Jim Comet]

Here is what I did to remove the  shock towers on my Comet. I haven't yet driven it but I am hoping it puts the stresses in the same areas that the shock towers did. Jim

[preaction]

Are special upper and lower A arms needed after the boss tower install ?

[MeanMofakee]

Well I've looked at the majority of the options out there, from using factory lower arms with all the neat stuff (roller spring perches, adjustable strut rods) to fabricated lower and upper arms with all the goodies. Lost of options out there.

I haven't done it - considered it - and I'm with Jay, I'd look at one of the "real" chassis builders for a clip.  I worry that the glom on units using welded crossmembers put a different set of stresses on the front inner fenders that the original design.  Not a problem if the car is 10 point caged with runners out into the engine compartment over the upper strut/shock mounts.  But if you are going to bang on it any, I would consider a clip and full connectors in the floor to stiffen the chassis front to rear.  That way you have your ride height and all the technical stuff like anti-dive and such are done as a unit on a jig.  Also nothing wrong with a strut type setup, maybe something like the Total Control deal that uses some late model parts.  You should opt for tunable shock or strut because weight and chassis reaction are not going to be "off the shelf". 

As noted, it may cost you as much for headers and oil pan work as the chassis mods.  Lots of people don't seem to think about that, "the kit is only $1995!"  Then they get on their favorite web list and whine that nothing fits but the bare block.  This is hot rodding people!  You'll spend much time with dial indicators fussing over  .001 only to follow up with a 2 lb hammer, 1/2 drill and cutting torch.

I would personally like to mod the Falcon (same as your Fairlane) to take the motor from the dragster so I could play door car guy sometimes, but that big long oil pan pretty well shoots that deal I think.  I'd have to use a subframe kit of some sort because the rack would have to be forward of the engine.

I like the idea of what Total Control offers in a couple different front clips for the 67and up Mustang, but there again it doesn't seem to be available for the Fairlane. Have any of you built your own front clip before. The main frame and extensions that are under the body looks like it would be pretty simple to duplicate. You could incorporate your sub connectors into that also.  When you come to the A-arms, have seen some nice features on aftermarket stuff. How much work do you think it would be to go the next step and build the control arms also. I found a neat suspension simulator on the net, WWW.Vsusp.com. Can't get a link to work to be able to post it here but I think it is pretty neat. Check it out. You could take a known spindle with great geometry, plug in the numbers and come up with something that should work. With that said my poor tired mind isn't capable of making that happen, but it's an entertaining thought. Would be a challenge, but by some of the stuff I've seen some of you guys do on here it could be done.

[Heo]

I have built everything from A-arms to full chassis its not
like it some voodoo involved take your time and meassure
and double meassure and have something sturdy and level
to build on.
And remember there is no such thing as a perfect chassie
everything is a compromise. Handling versus straight line
performance versus comfort
I don't know but just an idea how would the Crown vic aluminium
front end they use on pickups fit a Fairlane or the Jaguar
front end

[preaction]

It seems like the boss 429 shock tower is the best  "factory" look if that is important to you I think when the boss 429's were made they came with special upper and lower A arms that aren't reproduced.

[bn69stang]

After a long time and plenty of reading , searching and study ng all i could find .. I rebuilt my 69 stang s suspension ,, first i did nt want to cut the shock tower s out , it s a Mach 1 ,, So i went with the Ride Tech front coil over , tubular control arm setup , i put the tower reinforcement plate on the tire side of the tower " a plate that st sits at 45 degree angle " old boss 302 road racing mod , it welds in .. The upper control arm has a 1 inch drop built in , no drilling of more holes required , the lower arm is all 1 piece , no front strut rod rubber bushing , its a solid bearing setup , both upper and lower are fully adjustable ,, they have R Q and H Q kits , ride quality and handling quality and ends up dropping the the front 2 inch s .. Very nice quality stuff . NEXT .. I used the Unisteer power rack kit , it replaces the bottm cross member , so it mount s behind a front sump pan , i already had FPA headers for ground clearance ,, the rack kit is very nice as well , i have good ground clearance between the suspension changes and , power rack setup .. NEXT ,, i put subframe connectors on the car , the rear 4 leaf rear spring was ditched , for 5 leaf mid eye spring , and a 3/4 inch lowering block , and put the shelby under rider trac bar , which is imo kinda like a 4 link , they locate the axle and minimize movement , control wheel hop , plant the rear .. NEXT .. I had new in the box Ford racing calipers for a 2003 cobra , bullitt , or mach 1 , and wanted to put them on the car , seached and found bracket kit s for front and rear , and installed on the car , with drilled and slotted rotors , had some brake lines made .. the front rotor is 13 inch s and the rear is 11.85 inch s , even the e brake cable fit ... I am very very pleased with this setup , the car drives , and handles like never before , steering is nice and responsive , car s stance is great , the car sits on vintage wheel works type 45 s , 17-8 front with 4.75 inches of back spacing , 17-9 with 5.5 inches of back spacing , running 245/45-17 s front and 255/50-17s in the rear ,,, the car stop s on dime and you some change ... I absolutely love how it drives and stops now ,, eventually will do the ride tech rear coil over kit , but the cars setup on the back now works .. Hope this helps with your suspension make over .. Bud

[Richard F]

I used Heidts for my Falcon.