recommendations on removing "chocolate milk" out of the engine?

[jholmes217]

I put my dual quad intake manifold on a couple weeks ago, then all the end of the school year stuff high school JROTC teachers have to do (awards banquet, pass in review, final exams, grades, graduation, etc.) took of for a while.  Topped it off with coolant, and then I started it up.  Saw a water leak at the back china wall.  Well, after further investigation, my oil was that "chocolate milk" color.  After tear down, it looks like the helicoils in my back intake manifold bolt holes backed out some, preventing the intake from sealing well around the back water jackets.  I think I have things fixed now, but I never had a water down on the inside of my engine.  I was thinking I'd change the oil and filter, then take it for a 1/2 drive, then change the oil and filter again.  Am I on target, or is there a better way?

[Heo]

change the oil and take it for a looooong drive and the heat
will steam the water away. PCV will help if you have that

[Katz427]

We used something from Union Carbide called Cellosolve in the shop. It mixed with the ethylene glycol and made it much easier to flush the crankcase. The problem as a Lubrication engineer explained is that the glycol will displace the oil and cause the oil film on the surface to not form as the glycol sheds the oil film. The Cellosolve acts like a sponge to absorb the glycol so it can be drained out. It does not take much ethylene glycol to mess up the surface of main and rod bearings.

[Falcon67]

How much water? Like this?



If there is antifreeze in the water, you best get it out yesterday because it will impact the bearings.  If there is just a little, drain the oil and change the filter then  run it and watch the oil color.  If it's a lot then:

Pull the intake and distributor, drain the oil and put on a fresh filter.  Put about a quart of kerosene and 3-4 quarts of oil in it, run it through the motor with a drill while turning over the crank.  LONG time, better use a stout 1/2" drill.  Make sure it gets run through a lot.  Drain, toss the filter, new filter.  Put about 3 quarts of ATF in it, run that through the motor while turning over the crank.  Same, run it a lot.  Drain, toss filter, fill with oil, fresh filter - pump it through to make sure fresh oil is everywhere.  Assemble and re-test.

[jholmes217]

How much water? Like this?



If there is antifreeze in the water, you best get it out yesterday because it will impact the bearings.  If there is just a little, drain the oil and change the filter then  run it and watch the oil color.  If it's a lot then:

Pull the intake and distributor, drain the oil and put on a fresh filter.  Put about a quart of kerosene and 3-4 quarts of oil in it, run it through the motor with a drill while turning over the crank.  LONG time, better use a stout 1/2" drill.  Make sure it gets run through a lot.  Drain, toss the filter, new filter.  Put about 3 quarts of ATF in it, run that through the motor while turning over the crank.  Same, run it a lot.  Drain, toss filter, fill with oil, fresh filter - pump it through to make sure fresh oil is everywhere.  Assemble and re-test.

Nowhere near that bad.  I didn't notice the "chocolate milk" color until I pulled a lifter out.  Only a very small amount of anti freeze was in it.  It was mostly just water since I drained the antifreeze mix when I changed intake manifolds.  It was refilled with just water for the test run with the new intake manifold.  If all was well with the test run and tuning, I was then going to refill with a antifreeze and water mix.

[Lenz]

This may be way out there but feel free to pile on if it's a bad idea.  I pushed water past the rings in a flooded hole in a 302 at least 20 years ago while on vacation.  Had inverted the air cleaner cover, the rains came while sitting and there you have it (that's another one of life's lessons learned ).  After starting it I opened the hood (duh) and figured out what had happened, sure enough the oil was a milky beige color.  Still not sure why I kept leaning on the key to try and start it when it refused to turn over, but alcohol may have been involved.

Anyway, I drained that stuff, went out and bought a some filters, oil and 10 gallons of kerosene, pulled the plugs and coil wire.  I poured in half the Kerosene with a fresh filter, cranked it over.  Think I gave it 3 shots at 10-15 seconds each about a minute apart not wanting to overheat the starter.  I did the same thing a second time and then put on another filter and filled the oil.  After putting everything back in place and firing up it I had good results.  There wasn't enough water left in the system to detect any discoloration of the oil and I had good pressure.

Key here too I guess is that I was dealing only with rain water and possibly flawed logic that it would chase out faster with the thin kerosene 

[turbohunter]

alcohol may have been involved.

LMAO

[Lenz]

Yeah, me too.  'specially when I went back and read that I had gallons on the brain while typing instead of quarts.  Senility can't be far off I'm afraid....   Doesn't hurt to be-clown yourself every once in a while though, keeps things in perspective.

[Falcon67]

Sounds like you caught it in time - good deal.  I'd still consider an oil change and a quart of kero, then a second change just to get the water out - especially in things like the lifters.

The 302 pictured had an intake gasket let go during break in thanks to the way a Performer RPM intake matched up against the rear water ports of  a GT40 iron head.  Cleaned it all out as listed, went on with break in - no problems.  Had to have a friend weld on the intake to increase the seal area around the rear water ports and switched to Mr Gasket Ultra seals instead of the stocker type Felpro items.

[jholmes217]

Sounds like you caught it in time - good deal.  I'd still consider an oil change and a quart of kero, then a second change just to get the water out - especially in things like the lifters.

The 302 pictured had an intake gasket let go during break in thanks to the way a Performer RPM intake matched up against the rear water ports of  a GT40 iron head.  Cleaned it all out as listed, went on with break in - no problems.  Had to have a friend weld on the intake to increase the seal area around the rear water ports and switched to Mr Gasket Ultra seals instead of the stocker type Felpro items.

I wish they had ultra Seals for FEs, or someone made thicker gaskets.  It would add some insurance to intake sealing.

[jholmes217]

Decided against trying the 2x4 manifold again, and instead went with a port matched Streetmaster.  Drained the "chocolate milk" oil, then poured a fresh coat of oil in and let that drain through to help flush some of that gunk out.  Put just tap water in the radiator as a temporary coolant to test for leaks, then filled up with cheap oil from Walmart and a new filter.  Engine ticked for about 10 seconds, then seemed fine.  Took it for a couple rides around town, and everything seems fine.  I'll drain the oil this week again, and refill with good oil and new filter, and also put a proper antifreeze and distilled water mix in.  Thanks for all the suggestions!  I think everything is fine. 

[My427stang]

Decided against trying the 2x4 manifold again, and instead went with a port matched Streetmaster.  Drained the "chocolate milk" oil, then poured a fresh coat of oil in and let that drain through to help flush some of that gunk out.  Put just tap water in the radiator as a temporary coolant to test for leaks, then filled up with cheap oil from Walmart and a new filter.  Engine ticked for about 10 seconds, then seemed fine.  Took it for a couple rides around town, and everything seems fine.  I'll drain the oil this week again, and refill with good oil and new filter, and also put a proper antifreeze and distilled water mix in.  Thanks for all the suggestions!  I think everything is fine.

I wouldn't worry about it, sounds like you caught it.  One more change and a fresh filter to verify that it's good and off you go.  Thousands of cars run hundreds of thousands of miles after puking a head gasket with mechanics who take far less care than you gave it.