Hey all I have a KEVKO circle track pan with baffles and trap doors  inside

I’m going to use it in a drag race application is there any modifications I should do for a straight line vs a circle?

I just don’t want to starve oil but if keeping doors and baffles can help I’m game

Thanks
Dave

Hey all

As many of you know I’m building a “new” engine for my pinto

I have a KEVKO racing front Sump circle track pan but my plan is to use it in a drag race application

I have a Melling high volume oil pump. I also have the melling pickup that KEVKO included with the pan the trouble is with the high volume pump, it really gets the pickup too close to the sump of the pan (less than 1/8 closer 3/32)

Are there any “tricks” to cutting and modifying a pickup tube? TIG vs Brazing?

Clearance should be 5/16 including pan gasket thickness correct?

My current plan is cut the tube and support and adjust height

Also this pan has trap doors in the pan that help with slosh are there any reasons a circle track pan won’t work in a drag application? I would hate to starve that pump especially if I can modify at this point

I tend to really sweat the small stuff at times which is why it takes me forever to get anything done

Thanks guys

Dave

Hey all

I currently run mad dog headers

They fit and look great

The trouble is they go under the crossmember

With ant more than 2 people in the car they can drag

What other options are there?

Thanks
Dave

Hey all

I’m at another cross road with my 9” for my pinto!

I’m building a 3.25” tube rear with a support gusset

My plan is to use Calvert mono leafs and CalTrac bars

I’m upgrading to 35 or possibly even 40 spline axles

I would like to run a class called “true street” this is a class where you run two passes then do a 20-30 mile cruise, take 15 min to cool down and run another pass!

So my question is as follows: do I put in a Detroit locker or a full spool?

I’m leaning towards a locker as I have one in my galaxie and I love it but how will it perform on the race track and what should I expect?

I don’t want to add something that may hurt performance or even cause an accident

Thanks guys
Dave

Hey all

I changed up my mechanical fan in my galaxie to a Lincoln mark viii

I also changed the alternator to a 3G 150 amp to support the fan

Up until this time I NEVER had the electric choke connected on my summit vacuum secondary 750

I would just snap the throttle until it’s up to temp and go

My car previously ran awesome!

Now the fan works as it should and running the bigger alternator needed an idle adjustment obviously due to the added load

While driving the car “feels” like it’s REALLY working

It never did before, it just WENT!

I was driving at 55 mph pushed the gas in 4th and the car surged and backfired

What would cause this?

I’m stumped as I have never had these types of issues with the mechanical fan and the 1G alternator

I’m going to let it cool down stone cold and unplug the electric choke wire to see if that helps anything

What do you all have to say?

I’m stumped and don’t want to change too many things and make it worse

Thanks guys
Dave

Hey all

I have a simple question

I am going to get my galaxie rewired this fall and I have a painless wiring harness for it along with a Dakota digital replacement dash cluster

My FE does not have the factory temperature switch installed but I’m thinking to use it

My question is “how does it work?”

On my dash I have a “red” window that says “Hot” And a “blue” window that says “cold”

If I use that switch I’m assuming it will read cold u til the engine is up to operating temperature but is there a “dead” space between cold and hot? Meaning it’s cold until it’s up to temp but cold will go off and then read hot when it’s overheating?

I have never used these and I’m only thinking about using them because the wiring harness has provisions for them

Thanks guys
Dave

Hey all

I spent most of the weekend messing with my galaxie

I converted the mechanical fan to a Lincoln mark VIII two speed

With minor trimming and some slight radiator mount mods it fits as if it were made for that vehicle!

I also plan to re wire it this winter and add halogen head lamps and a decent sound system so I am going to add a 3g tuff stuff alternator

My question is are there any reasons “not” to add a self exciting one wire regulator?

It would really make the install cleaner and easier as the electric system in this old girl is questionable at best!

Also “could” I get by with this fan and the stock Alternator for a few weeks providing I’m not out at night (head lamp drain)

The only other “electric” item in the car is my ignition, wipers, heater and break lights

I just never drive it at night or in the rain

I guess I had a few questions to ask there!!!

Thanks again guys

Dave

Brent

I’m very curious about the second build you Posted

First I’m glad you chose a BBM block as I’m seriously thinking about buying one and it’s great to see them being used!!!

Second what is the max bore these can go to? The build started with a 4.350 Bore on a new block this is a different school of thought than I have been conditioned to believe! (Always told keep it as small as possible for more builds but I guess build it once build it right!)Is it for more displacement using a stock stroke? Or is it to un shroud the valves for head flow?

Third what do you mean by corrected and squared to 10.150 are the blocks left with room to adjust? Really stupid question is the 10.150 the stock deck height?

Fourth how strong are the BBM blocks? My crazy thought is to possibly fuel inject and turbo charge one in the future and are FE engines suitable for this? One of my favorite engines are the Lima 2.3 series and it amazes me how much power can be had by adding boost!

On a side  note My current project I’m building is a stroker 2.65 liter esslinger medium block with a billet esslinger crank, dyers top rods and CP pistons. The head I chose is a Volvo 16 valve interference head (the head physically bolts on with mods) the cams are reground to gain lift and make them turbo friendly. The turbo is a borg Warner EFR-9180 I have FID2000 injectors and I shooting for a power goal of 700-750 at the wheels at 40-45psi of boost on E-85 fuel

Can similar technologies be used on older style engines and make staggering power levels? It’s a question more than anything

That’s about it for now again I’m not questions any decisions I’m just wanting to understand for future projects on any series of engines as all types are different but much of the technical aspects can interchange

Thanks again for all your input And I’m basically Mentally logging all the info I gather as this kind of stuff keeps me sane!

Dave