Anyone have a clean H servo/piston/spring/cover for a C6? Thanks.

I hope this is an appropriate post here. If not, please delete and accept my apologies. I tried to keep as short as possible while providing enough information to get some assistance.

I have a '63.5 Galaxie 500XL w/ original Feb. '63 390 w/ 112k mi. and a '67 C6 that was behind a 390 in a Fairlane column shift. I want to start my transmission project in prep for engine rebuild in a year or two. I plan to take the 390 to 410 or 445, shooting for 450'ish HP using a BT 4v 427 MR intake and hopefully worked over 6090-C heads. This will be for street only, no special application, and I like bottom-mid torque and rarely live near red-line. I want a big lumpy idle, but not at the expense of driveability or power brakes. I will probably do something like a custom ground cam from Ken @ Oregon Cams. I currently have a 3.00, open, 9" rear-end, and I'm satisfied with the RPMs @ 70 mph. I'm not sure if a gear change is warranted or not, but do plan to install a TrueTrac diff. I also assume a mild stall converter will be in order.

I will probably build the C6 myself if I can get the shaft end-play sorted out without a big investment/gamble, and make sense of a straight forward rebuild manual that covers rollerization. I think I have decided to send the valvebody off to Broader to have it modified as a reverse, manual VB. This seems like it would work well with the stock console shifter and would allow deletion of the vacuum modulator, governor, and kickdown linkage and lever. (Curious what your thoughts/experience is if you have driven something similar. Maybe there is a performance shifter for this application that fits in the stock location that I should consider for safety or performance reasons?)

I bought the Crites C6 conversion bracket and isolator, but it sounds like this puts the trans at an unnecessary angle that even prevents getting the speedometer cable in place, so not knowing of any other source, I plan on going with the 1/8" plates to instead relocate the original crossmember. I'm not sure which isolator would be required at this point. I will also need some sort of slip yoke for the driveshaft. (Luckily I got the factory 1-piece shaft.) Not sure if I'd be better off swapping the column shift lever over to the console shift lever or just going with the TCI universal lever for extra adjustability.

This just leaves one last piece to sort out so that I can get started. I'm not sure if I should go wide-ratio or not, based on all these other aspects and what I THINK is my desired outcome. They add quite a bit to the cost of the build assuming my stock internals are in good shape. Any thoughts/input here is greatly appreciated. I have been hum-hawing over this for a year now. THANKS!

Stock 390-4v FE 63.5 Galaxie. I am swapping in a 3-core Champion radiator and their surge tank, 195 thermostat, stock 6-blade clutch fan. Also adding a Crites hood and I have a 14" e-fan pusher. I plan to rebuild the motor in the next 2 years, likely to 410 or more stroke.

Is a high volume water pump too much for this setup? I don't want to collapse hoses or cause cooling efficiency issues. I want to go aluminum, but I have the 61-64 style with the two (3-piece) brackets as with the generator, but I have an old Delco alternator. Is there a benefit to switching to the 65+ style pump and brackets or should I keep it "correct"? Any brands to avoid?

Should I try to run it w/o the e-fan after the new coolant system is installed?

Thanks!

...particularly for a 4v high CR. Somewhere I got 5800 RPM stuck in my head and now I can't find where I saw that. In searching, I'm seeing everything from 4000-6000 RPM recommended. My guess would be 5500, but wanted to see what ya'll thought about this. Thanks.

63.5 Galaxie 500XL Louisville ordered, built, (7/20/63) and sourced Z-code. The intake is a 63 correct 4v intake from Feb. 63 and the heads are the supposed late 63 406 / high alt. 390 casting with small combustion chambers and larger valves. The only thing I have found on the block so far is a small raised bump to the left of a perfectly clear "2" at the top right where the "352" casting is typically found. Doesn't appear to have been ground off, but never know. The next time I get under it I intend to check behind the starter. I didn't see anything near the oil filter adapter. It has the crossbolt mains drilled and tapped, but only the fronts have bolts in them best I can tell. I haven't checked stroke or comp yet, but I plan to get to it "soon". Has anyone seen this "2" casting before?

Hey all, after a 4 year hunt I finally found my 63.5 Galaxie 500XL 390 with gold Thunderbird valve covers and gold 4v-premium fuel intake. The car is an original Z-code, but the motor is not original and I haven't yet had time to do any identification on it. I will have to get up to speed and go to work. Is this engine supposed to be a 300 or 330 bulk HP engine? I haven't yet tested compression, a little afraid to...hahaha. What range should I see on a hot / cold motor? She seems strong and no strange noises.

Far as I know it is stock with a 600cfm Edy carb and intake. Wondering how many ponies this carb will be good for. Also, where can I get a carb / intake gasket and K&N filter for the aluminum Edlebrock air cleaner? I think its an Edelbrock 1406. I don't mind the Edlebrock intake, but it looks a little out of place. I've considered running the stock intake, but seems like it would hold an awful lot of heat and seems restrictive. I need to look around at my options.

On a cold start, she fires right up without touching the pedal. On a hot or heat soaked motor, she seems to want it wide-open and cranks a bit. I ran the batt. down yesterday by being hard headed and not holding the gas open, lesson learned. However, after stopping again for gas on the way home it did something odd. The car has an e-fan on it to assist with the heat in slow speed / stopped situations and it seems to run about 45-55% on the temp gauge unless I flip the fan off and turn the car off and let it heat soak. This is pretty well what happened yesterday at the gas station. I turned the key and it did nothing, not even a Gen light, didn't even try to turn over. I asked for a jump from a new F150 and the car was doing the exact same thing, but it was pulling on the F150 enough to drag it down, though still not turning the motor over for me. We gave up and he left. I checked all the wires and they were good, but I did remove the coil wire and reconnect and when I got back in the car it fired right up like nothing was ever wrong, though the temp gauge was reading about 95% at this point though no apparently boil over. What does this sound like...an issue with the starter or? Seems odd that I didn't have the Gen light come on though, and why did it just decide to come back to life like that? Since I mentioned boiling over, what is the advantage of having the plastic fender mounted overflow bottles? Mine leaks out of the cap and looks like hell I think.

The PO said the cast iron intake caused the carb / gas to boil, so he added the e-fan. Would an aluminum intake help with this? Would it help out with engine temps in general as well? When I pop the hood a rush of hot air hits you, more than I expected, even after sitting for a while. Thinking that this may be good justification for a teardrop hood. Is it all about the Crites hood or?

Are there any good and affordable longtube headers that don't hang down below the frame? If not, I may look into some cast shorties, but I do plan on intake and exhaust manifolds, maybe a cam though the (I assume) stock cam sounds pretty good too through dual glasspacks. I may try straight pipes and a crossover though, not sure yet. The exhaust blows water-carbon black mess all over my garage floor, especially out of the driver's side...not sure how normal this is. I'm no EPA / PETA / greenie freak, but I MAY consider adding some Magnaflow spun-cats to the exhaust when I tear into it just to clean it up for the garage. Already had to disable the carbon monoxide detector at the house.

I tend to run NGK iridium plugs. Is that a good plan in this motor as well? Gap?

I THINK the speedo gets about 6 MPH off up at 55 MPH, but seems close down at 25 MPH. The care doesn't seem to scream at an indicated 60-65 MPH but that's all I took her up to. What kind of (actual) sustained MPH is considered acceptable with a CoM trans? If I end up doing a swap, would a C6 be a good one to look into? Approximate cost? If I can live with the CoM, are there any mods, shift kits that I should plan for? I don't intend to tool along in this car, she's already getting the holeshot from every stop and romped on occasion.

I love that its original, but I am also considering an electronic ignition. Can anyone help advise me one way or the other and maybe suggest a kit? I've heard good things about Pertonix...

Is it alright to just run pump gas w/o any additives? I've been running 91-93 with up to 10% corn likker.

Thanks guys, I will have LOTS of questions, but I will try to keep them all in this thread so as to not bug the #hit out of everyone. Ordered me a 1963 MO plate for her this AM...pretty excited. She leaks out of every orifice so I have some work to do before getting too carried away with mods. I'm considering a tach, but not being a 4 speed, not sure how beneficial it would be.