I started my FE FOX swap with my 78 Fairmont back in late 1986, and was racing it by 1988. Back then, there were no tubular K members available, so we did a bit of trimming on the factory K member. My 78 was a factory 4 cylinder car, which used the same K member as the 302, basically all we did was some minor trimming the make room for a stock FE PU truck 4x4 rear sump oil pan, and cut a section of the shallow front section, so that the pan could nestle down closely around the factory manual steering rack. Made the notch deep enough so that the oil pump pickup tube and CJ windage tray was almost contacting the top of the steering rack. Welded a length of 2 1/2" exhaust tubing to fill the gap. Made some simple angle iron solid motor mounts that bolted to the factory motor mount holes on the block, and welded to flat plates welded onto the factory motor mount towers on the K member. I didn`t like the skinny 4x4 oil pickup tube, so modified a 391 Full sump pickup tube, which is much larger diameter, and has a removable screen. My car was a manual steering and brake car, so no idea if the booster on a power brake car would clear, but I kinda doubt it, at least where my FEs were located. Naturally, headers had to be custom made, the first set were a pair of the multi piece Hooker race headers for a FE 67-70 Mustang, heavily modified, with the 3rd tube on each side crossing under the oil pan, and going into the opposite collector. Those headers worked well, and were fairly easy to get on and off, but hung down pretty low, so got abnged up on big whelstands. Later on ,around 1999, I swapped from a C6 to a Jerico 4 speed, and had TomP build a new pair of headers. These headers fit much higher in the chassis, and never hit the ground, but took much longer to install. Also, when I did the 4 speed swap, I made up the clutch linkage, using the original clutch pedal, and a Z bar and clutch fork, and lower adjuster from a 73-76 F series FE PU truck. Basically copied the truck linkage, so the clutch pedal had a rod (made from grade 8 Redi Rod and 3/8" rod ends), that went from the clutch pedal, thru the floor between the gas and brake pedals, and pulled upwards on the Z bar, like the trucks did. The Z bar and engine side pivot ball bracket were un modified truck parts, for the "frame side" Z bar pivot, I took a truck pivot ball frame bracket, removed the staked ball pivot, and welded it into a piece of 1/4" steel plate, and welded that to the inside of the factory frame rail. Lower rod was another piece of Grade 8 Redi Rod, with a rod end at the Z bar, and the truck pointed lower adjuster , with the Readi Rod slipped inside. Since the Jerico DR4 is based on a Toploader, I imagine a Toploader 4 speed would fit the same, although the transmission tunnel is quite narrow, so we sliced the top of the tunnel, and pulled it outwards, and filled in the gap. Trans crossmember is a length of 2" square tubing. When I went to a small block Ford a few years ago, I installed an aftermarket tubular K member , which would make building a set of FE headers much simpler. When we moved a few years ago, 4000 miles away, I had to get rid of a lot of stuff, I gave TomP the modified factory K member and motor mounts, if he still has it, he may be able to post a photo or 2. I still have the headers that Tom built for the FE, but the collectors basically disintgrated over the years, although the primary tubes are likely still usable. I also bought a set of FE headers from a drag racer who ran them on his 428 CJ powered 93 Mustang Super Stocker. I never tried them in my Fairmont, but I also have the front motor plates, mid plate, and my old FE oil pan and pickup, in case I ever want to put a FE back into the car. I have never had any luck posting photos on this site, but I could send them in a messenger to somebody if interested. I also have photos of the TomP headers on the 428, with the oil pan on, hanging on the engine hoist, and a couple of underhood shots. When we did the swap all those years ago, I wanted the engine as far back and as low as possible, using the factory K member and steering location, so the drivers side head is about 3/4" from the firewall, and the stock flat hood could close with a lower intake, like a Streetmaster, but it was quite close, with no air cleaner, so I have always ran a snorkle scoop on the stock hood and hinges.