That's a mule, not a mustang image.  Joe-JDC

I think you will find the carb studs for mounting a carb flat on the manifold will work.  That is what came in my TR box from Summit.  Joe-JDC

That is an interesting answer.  I had a friend say the same thing about using JB Weld.  Joe-JDC

I am reworking my 2019 EMC 303 CI Y Block, and the heads I am going to install have larger intake valves which just kiss the cylinder wall at my camshaft lift.  There are evidence marks where the previous heads had just kissed the cylinders walls, but the valves show no sign of wear or metal transfer, bent, or any issues.  There is not any evidence on the valves, so I am not sure the last set of heads were the culprit.  We had three sets of heads we tested, so it may have been one of the other heads that the valves touched the cylinder wall.  Anyway, I am cutting a bit more clearance on the cylinder edge, and my burr jumped and nicked the deck.  Not bad, but ugly enough to warrant some concern.  The nick in right between two cylinders and where the head gasket is metal at that point.  I would feel better if there was something to apply to the divot and sand it level with the rest of the deck without having to completely disassemble the shortblock and get the decks cut enough to remove the imperfections.  Is there something any of you have used with success in such a situation?  A new gasket may seal it with copper gasket spray and re-torquing, but I am a bit hesitant at this point.  Ideas?  Thanks, Joe-JDC

If it is running ok with the camshaft that is in there and the lifters look good, leave it alone.  Not enough difference in those camshafts to warrant possible loss of the other cam or lifters during break in of the camshaft.  Joe-JDC

I must have read this wrong earlier.  The C1 heads ported, and ported BT intake will be stressed to make 1 hp/ci without lots of compression, and camshaft change.  The stock style fuel pump should be more than adequate to keep the carburetor supplied with enough fuel.  A rebuild from O'Reilleys, or any auto parts store will work just fine.  My 345Y makes 402hp, and I use a stock replacement fuel pump without any issues.  The sock on the fuel pick-up tube can be clogged, fuel tank rusty, fuel lines rusty, or the ceramic filter in the glass bowl be partially clogged, all hurting fuel flow.  If those are all new/clean, then I would suspect the ignition, coil, resistor, wires, plugs, or float level wrong or bad.  If all this is good, then yes, you can use a FE fuel pump for the model year up through '64 if the car has electric windshield wipers.  I know many folks that have stroker Ys with Mummert aluminum heads, ported intakes, headers, cams, 1.6 rocker arms, and they get by with the stock style fuel pumps.  IF all else fails, then add an electric inline fuel pump to assist with a pressure regulator set for 5-5.5psi.  Joe-JDC

Distributor curve per Ford Muscle Parts that has worked just fine for me in the past.

Distributor rpm  250       500     1000     1500     2000       2500
                        0*       1 3/4*   7 3/4*   10*      12 1/4*   14 1/2*

Initial advance 12-14*  Total timing with iron heads 38*  Aluminum heads ~34* depending on combustion chamber design.
Yes, some iron heads will make the most power at 41-42* total timing depending on the engine.

Joe-JDC

I have a couple of used "take offs" that were supposedly leaking water around a seat.  I haven't checked them, don't have a use for them.  They would need to be pressure tested and repaired.  Yours for shipping costs.   You have my phone number if interested.  Joe-JDC