Mostly because I think it will be easier for me to pull the whole unit than to unbolt the trans from under the car and do the things I want to do.  I'm actually planning on pulling that roller pilot bearing out of there and replacing it with a stock type pilot bushing, and having the engine/trans on the ground to do that and add the spacers will be easier, I think.  Takes me about an hour to get the engine out, and another hour to get it back installed, and I don't have to horse a heavy transmission up into the tunnel and try to line it up 

Gotcha. Hopefully it'll be on the road soon.

I was out at Calvert last week Jay.
What a fun place.
Calvert Christmas is a beautiful thing.
I see you boxed your perches as Howie suggested I do.
Diggin this build.

Hey Marc, I believe Jay has the "pre-boxed" perches from Calvert if I'm not mistaking. If you want to box your new ones or factory ones like I did, you can very easily do it with some flat stock steel. 

Jay, I'm not sure I understand why your pulling the engine back out also. If you're just installing the spacer, can't you just leave the engine bolted to the mounts and angle it down enough to just pull the trans? Is there more to it than just the spacer? Also, I noticed when I made my torque strap from hex stock steel and heims, when I pulled the trans out the last two times, the engine never moved. 

Here is another similar swap with a Boss. http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/1502-2005-ford-mustang-gt-packin-heat/ I remember reading an article on this one in the magazine. It is pretty cool too. Also, there are a few vids of this one on youtube if you search for it. Both engine swaps are equally fascinating.

If there is a heater core still hooked up, the water pump-to-intake bypass hose can be eliminated because the heater core essentially  works as a large bypass. Since you don't have the heater core hooked up yet Jason, this doesn't apply. However, I believe you posted somwhere earlier about drilling the t-stat. If you drilled three holes in it iirc, then you should be fine with that. Also when you are burping air from the cooling system do you leave the cap off until you shut it off? What I like to do is when it looks like the degas tank is not taking anymore coolant, then put the cap on and let it bleed it self the rest of the way. Also with the cap on, the pressure from the cap will help to increase the boiling point until things get settled. I also like to run a bottle of Water Wetter, or in your case Royal Purple ice for extra peace of mind. It sounds like your new rad. and fan setup should do the trick though. 

I have been rethinking the fan. It's ok, blows a huge pile of air but it does stick out a bit much.
On a cool day I have to put a piece of cardboard in front to get some heat in it.

Howie, when you say you have trouble getting heat out of it, is your fan set to run all the time? Do you have something like this installed? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890016/overview/

Jason, with your plans on the new rad. and fan setup I think you will be sufficient there and the current setup with hoses, etc. should be fine. The main reason for a degas tank is for the way the bodies and drivetrains are configured. With aerodynamics in mind, the radiator usually gets dropped lower in the front end to accomodate the body panels, etc. Since the radiator is mounted lower than other parts of the cooling system, the degas tank is employed to purge the air from the other parts of the system. These systems use a pressure only cap (1 way) and most times have a "puke tube" attatched to the top of the tank in case the coolant is too high, too much pressure built up, and so on. Not all have the "puke tube" though, some just release around the cap, I believe. If you want to go the other route, delete the degas tank, saleen t-stat housing, run a single hose from lower rad. outlet to driver block inlet adapter, and connect a small vent hose from the inline adapter to your new recirculating catch can, blocking off the hose port on top of rad. that used to go to degas tank. You can get the inline fill like Ross linked, add a seperate recirculating catch can and a pressure/vacuum cap such as the Ford Racing M-8100-A. This should fit the inline adapter Ross linked and is rated at 16lbs, which is better on an older car as long as the system can support the pressure because it helps increase the boiling point that much further. Almost all modern cars have 16 pound caps factory. This is same cap I have on my 66 with stock radiator. I also added a catch can and made it recirculating, although you can buy them already recirculating. I did this because if it were a catch can only, you would lose coolant when it gets hot and expands too much but don't have a way to draw it back in. This is a self-equilizing system, it takes and disperses as need be. It also doesn't matter if the recirculating catch can is higher or lower than rad., because it will draw coolant under vacuum and spit out under pressure. Mine is located on the side of my rad., about halfway up just for best fitment. I will try to get some pics tomorrow of my setup. Good luck whatever you decide.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16826/overview/ Derale staggered twin elcectric fans w/ shroud.

Maximum Fan CFM:4,000 cfm

Fan Quantity:Dual

Fan Diameter (in):12.000 in.

Height (in):17.125 in.

Width (in):25.625 in.

Thickness (in):3.500 in.

Number of Blades:7 blades

Blade Material:Plastic

Blade Color:Black

Shroud Color:Natural

Shroud Material:Aluminum

Amp Draw:24.80 amps

Air Conditioning Relay Included:No

Mounting Brackets Included:Yes

Mounting Hardware Included:Yes

Not sure if this will work for you but looks like a nice setup.