Okay, I decided to try VR1. Looking at what to run.

[67428GT500]

I have 220 miles on the new engine. I was considering running Brad Penn. However, most of their multi-viscosity offerings are partial synthetic.  I think it's a bit early to convert to a synthetic.  I bought straight 40WT VR1 being I really didn't want to spend 12.00 a quart on the Penn offering.   Any reason to be concerned with that choice?

                                                                            -Keith

[blykins]

Why would you run a straight 40 weight???

[67428GT500]

Wasn't really my first choice. The multi grades at Summit were partially synthetic.  That was even the case with Brad Penn.
I'm running a flat tappet as you're aware. Too early for semi-synthetics. 10 or 15-40 would have been my preference.

[plovett]

You have a $15,000 paint job and you are worried about spending an extra $50-$60 to get the right oil? Just buy what your engine needs.

Also, I have changed to synthetic oil on the dyno, after break-in and a dozen or so dyno pulls. with no ill effects.  But waiting a little longer doesn't hurt anything.

paulie

[Stangman]

After 250 miles of Brad Penn break in oil I use Brad Penn 10-40 and I have a solid cam. Just my opinion but after 250 miles cam is broken in and the rings have seated. If VR1 is what your wanting to use they also have good Zinc in there for your solid cam.

[plovett]

I don't know your build clearances and am not an expert on that anyway, but 10W30 or 10W40 works good on 90% of builds.  Ask your engine builder what to run and buy it. 

[67428GT500]

Actually, 84.00 is what 7 quarts runs plus the filter. Finding something that wasn't partially synthetic was the big issue.
VR1 had few offerings without going straight weights. 30, 40 or 50.  I don't like Lucas and it was one of the few that was mineral.  Yes, I have a full restored vehicle, Paulie. Paint work is not my forte. I don't take it out to the drags but it gets driven. The only offering at three chain stores in VR1 was 20/50.

[67428GT500]

I'm the builder. The mains and rods are at .0025. I'm running a hydraulic flat tappet as well. Most performance oils at Summit that were multi weight were synthetic blends. That was my concern.

[blykins]

If this were mine, I'd run the 30W Brad Penn break-in oil for another 700-800 miles and then either switch to the Brad Penn 10W-30 synthetic blend, or go ahead and switch to Valvoline VR1 10W-30 now. 

I just don't like the idea of a straight 40W oil in an engine, especially with .0025" bearing clearances.

[My427stang]

I'd likely run the 20w50 before the straight 40.

I personally don't think a synthetic blend would hurt you one bit after the 1st oil change, but if you are concerned, maybe have the local part stores order a case of 10w40?

[cattleFEeder]

Amazon has 10w30 VR1 for $5.25  a qt, rite now.

[Joe-JDC]

Just a thought for you to consider.  At Engine Masters, every contestant was given a full synthetic AmsOil of their choice for the competition.  I had 40 dyno pulls on my engine, removed the break-in oil after just a few pulls, and went to Amsoil 10W-30 for the dyno pulls, and everything went fine with the oil.  Made an additional 12 pulls at the EMC with 5W-20, and the oil still looks fresh.  I am going to continue to use the same oil for more dyno pulls in a couple of weeks.  Once the rings are seated, run whatever oil you prefer.  I have used 10W-30 for the last 50 years, and will continue to use it in older engines, and I use 5W-20 or whatever the manufacturer recommends in my newer vehicles.  If all the engines ran fine with full synthetic, and the bearings look like they have never been used, why worry about partial synthetic, or full synthetic?  All new vehicles use full synthetic, and they don't need 500 miles for break-in.  Much ado about nothing in my opinion.  Joe-JDC

[blykins]

Just a thought for you to consider.  At Engine Masters, every contestant was given a full synthetic AmsOil of their choice for the competition.  I had 40 dyno pulls on my engine, removed the break-in oil after just a few pulls, and went to Amsoil 10W-30 for the dyno pulls, and everything went fine with the oil.  Made an additional 12 pulls at the EMC with 5W-20, and the oil still looks fresh.  I am going to continue to use the same oil for more dyno pulls in a couple of weeks.  Once the rings are seated, run whatever oil you prefer.  I have used 10W-30 for the last 50 years, and will continue to use it in older engines, and I use 5W-20 or whatever the manufacturer recommends in my newer vehicles.  If all the engines ran fine with full synthetic, and the bearings look like they have never been used, why worry about partial synthetic, or full synthetic?  All new vehicles use full synthetic, and they don't need 500 miles for break-in.  Much ado about nothing in my opinion.  Joe-JDC

I don't think the oil that comes in your brand new car is synthetic.....I think it's mineral oil and then it gets changed to synthetic on the first oil change. 

Regardless, we don't know who did the machine work on his block, or what their capabilities are.   I can watch the rings seat on the dyno here but not everyone has the luxury of high level machine work, or being able to watch things on the dyno with a controlled load.  I'd rather be on the safe side and recommend using break-oil a little longer because that's not gonna hurt anything at all. 

[Falcon67]

I run 10w-30 VR-1 in the dragster and door car.  As I've noted before, on the new drag engines "break in" is loading against the converter a few times, then make a half-pass then it's full on after that.  I run all roller now, but same with the flat tappet after the standard flat tappet run in.  Moly faced rings with the proper bore finish seat nearly immediately.  If I'm changing rings and there's no taper (normal) I flex-hone the bores with 320 grit and 10w-30.  Buff lightly with a little scotch brite and off the the races LOL.

We've had several new Fords - all come with full syn oil in them from the get-go.  I put full syn in the 93 F-350 too.

[blykins]

We've had several new Fords - all come with full syn oil in them from the get-go.  I put full syn in the 93 F-350 too.

Are you sure that new cars are sitting in the showroom with synthetic oil?   I've heard from several sources that that's not the case, but you know about hear-say.