Has anyone ever used a vacuum canister for power brakes?

[Pentroof]

No worries Ross. It's not like I didn't know what to expect from an eBay sale.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=83642&start=90#p742625

[machoneman]

Still think the easiest, cheapest, fastest fix is a canister. JMO!

[My427stang]

Still think the easiest, cheapest, fastest fix is a canister. JMO!

I am being cheap and stubborn about mounting one under the hood, but maybe I'll hang one temporarily and see what it does.  Certainly the easiest and if it did what I needed, it's the easiest answer.  Thanks!

[jmlay]

A similar discussion is being had on the Boss 302 forum. In that discussion the Hella up28/30 pumps were brought up as a viable quiet option. Apparently the up28 for assit and up30 as an alternative engine vacuum. I have no experience with either but these are apparently used on Volvo production vehicles.

Random howto article: http://www.electricsubaru.com/vacuum.html

[Heo]

Thanks Jmlay, My son is scraping a Volvo V70
then i shall rescue the vaccum pump from that
for future needs

[TimeWarpF100]

Jim, certainly not saying you are wrong, because I expected the booster and master cyl swap to make a heck of a difference, but I have very good brakes when vacuum is up. 

I don't think the vacuum can will be right for me, but not sure I am ready to give up on the setup yet.  I'll take it out this weekend and diagnose a bit more.

What was poor quality in your kit?  It used some cheap looking brackets and bell crank, but I didn't even use those, I just bolted the booster in place and swapped to the correct line ends, it was pretty much a bolt on for my 71 4x4

I appreciate the input though, hate to hear you bought something based on my purchase and it didn't work out

My truck with the 482 only has 8" vacuum. Pedal pretty much solid. If engine vacuum is way low not so sure a canister will work. Most boosters need 15" to work properly.  I have been looking at vacuum pumps. Pricey but think that is route to go.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc&tw=vacuum%20pu&sw=Vacuum%20Pumps%2C%20Street&N=4294871448

[My427stang]

Thanks, I have used a pump/canister combo on a pretty rowdy Rat in a 55 Chevy that couldn't decide if it was a street rod or drag car, and yes it worked great.  (I just hate to spend the dough    

Isn't it funny, as a young man paycheck to paycheck, I loved to spend, now when I have it, I am a cheapskate LOL

I have some things I need to do with the proportioning valve, I don't like the bias and the one I have isn't adjustable, so I need to do that first and see what I think about the brakes, then make a call.

Believe it or not, as you know, the F100 is so light in the rear, I likely would be more happy in the long run with a little more cam in the stroker and a nice pump/canister to make up for the brakes, but I tend to decide  pretty slowly

[machoneman]

I had thought that too (low engine vac) but after reading how a canister works, I got one. See, on deceleration, even the hottest engines produce 15-20 inches of vac that 'fills' the canister. Before engine vac. drops back to low levels, the one-way valve captures that high vacuum for use later while braking. If one does heavy road-racing with constant turns (braking) one would deplete the canister pretty quickly. For almost all street and highway use where constant and heavy braking is not employed, it's fine.

Jim, certainly not saying you are wrong, because I expected the booster and master cyl swap to make a heck of a difference, but I have very good brakes when vacuum is up. 

I don't think the vacuum can will be right for me, but not sure I am ready to give up on the setup yet.  I'll take it out this weekend and diagnose a bit more.

What was poor quality in your kit?  It used some cheap looking brackets and bell crank, but I didn't even use those, I just bolted the booster in place and swapped to the correct line ends, it was pretty much a bolt on for my 71 4x4

I appreciate the input though, hate to hear you bought something based on my purchase and it didn't work out

My truck with the 482 only has 8" vacuum. Pedal pretty much solid. If engine vacuum is way low not so sure a canister will work. Most boosters need 15" to work properly.  I have been looking at vacuum pumps. Pricey but think that is route to go.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc&tw=vacuum%20pu&sw=Vacuum%20Pumps%2C%20Street&N=4294871448

[HarleyJack17]

Thanks, I have used a pump/canister combo on a pretty rowdy Rat in a 55 Chevy that couldn't decide if it was a street rod or drag car, and yes it worked great.  (I just hate to spend the dough    

Isn't it funny, as a young man paycheck to paycheck, I loved to spend, now when I have it, I am a cheapskate LOL

I have some things I need to do with the proportioning valve, I don't like the bias and the one I have isn't adjustable, so I need to do that first and see what I think about the brakes, then make a call.

Believe it or not, as you know, the F100 is so light in the rear, I likely would be more happy in the long run with a little more cam in the stroker and a nice pump/canister to make up for the brakes, but I tend to decide  pretty slowly

Ross,
Did you remove the factory distribution block when you did the swap? I mentioned this when the issue first hit the forum. A disc/drum disc/disc system will not work correctly with it in the system.  I am betting you swapped it but just curious. I think an adjustable proportioning valve will work better..if not, a can is a cheap last try.

[Dumpling]

What exactly is wrong with manual brakes?

Not getting it, sorry

[My427stang]

What exactly is wrong with manual brakes?

Not getting it, sorry

Nothing, but the truck bought by my grandfather new and I have driven since 1984 has power brakes....my Mustang is manual brakes and disk/drum, but the 4500 lb 4 inch lift truck, I'd like to work the way I want.

Thanks, I have used a pump/canister combo on a pretty rowdy Rat in a 55 Chevy that couldn't decide if it was a street rod or drag car, and yes it worked great.  (I just hate to spend the dough    

Isn't it funny, as a young man paycheck to paycheck, I loved to spend, now when I have it, I am a cheapskate LOL

I have some things I need to do with the proportioning valve, I don't like the bias and the one I have isn't adjustable, so I need to do that first and see what I think about the brakes, then make a call.

Believe it or not, as you know, the F100 is so light in the rear, I likely would be more happy in the long run with a little more cam in the stroker and a nice pump/canister to make up for the brakes, but I tend to decide  pretty slowly

Ross,
Did you remove the factory distribution block when you did the swap? I mentioned this when the issue first hit the forum. A disc/drum disc/disc system will not work correctly with it in the system.  I am betting you swapped it but just curious. I think an adjustable proportioning valve will work better..if not, a can is a cheap last try.

Yes, and initially used a 79 Bronco valve, but the truck is lighter and more nose heavy, I am not happy with it.  FYI, the can is solving a different issue than the proportioning valve, one keeps the rears from locking up, the other gives me a solid pedal.  Although you are correct, if some reason I am happy with it after I get the bias where I want it, I'll be good

I had thought that too (low engine vac) but after reading how a canister works, I got one. See, on deceleration, even the hottest engines produce 15-20 inches of vac that 'fills' the canister. Before engine vac. drops back to low levels, the one-way valve captures that high vacuum for use later while braking. If one does heavy road-racing with constant turns (braking) one would deplete the canister pretty quickly. For almost all street and highway use where constant and heavy braking is not employed, it's fine. , the rears lock first.

Bob, can't hurt to try.  I follow you 100%, maybe I will buy one and strap it somewhere under the hood for now.  Hate to drill my fancy NOS inner fenders unless I have to.  It's no show truck but those were NOS in 1995 and sat in a box and I hate to drill holes in them unless I am sure

[cattleFEeder]

Ross I don't know how much room you have behind the grill but here is were I put mine on my 73 mustang. Your a smart cookie you will get it figured out, good luck. Dan

[TimeWarpF100]

Thanks, I have used a pump/canister combo on a pretty rowdy Rat in a 55 Chevy that couldn't decide if it was a street rod or drag car, and yes it worked great.  (I just hate to spend the dough    

Isn't it funny, as a young man paycheck to paycheck, I loved to spend, now when I have it, I am a cheapskate LOL

I have some things I need to do with the proportioning valve, I don't like the bias and the one I have isn't adjustable, so I need to do that first and see what I think about the brakes, then make a call.

Believe it or not, as you know, the F100 is so light in the rear, I likely would be more happy in the long run with a little more cam in the stroker and a nice pump/canister to make up for the brakes, but I tend to decide  pretty slowly

Since I have large 14" 6p brakes I went with the matching 1" Master Cylinder and has a built in proportioning valve that's a option. Only drove once around the block so far but once I get some proper vacuum to see how it all works out.

[TimeWarpF100]

I had thought that too (low engine vac) but after reading how a canister works, I got one. See, on deceleration, even the hottest engines produce 15-20 inches of vac that 'fills' the canister. Before engine vac. drops back to low levels, the one-way valve captures that high vacuum for use later while braking. If one does heavy road-racing with constant turns (braking) one would deplete the canister pretty quickly. For almost all street and highway use where constant and heavy braking is not employed, it's fine.

Jim, certainly not saying you are wrong, because I expected the booster and master cyl swap to make a heck of a difference, but I have very good brakes when vacuum is up. 

I don't think the vacuum can will be right for me, but not sure I am ready to give up on the setup yet.  I'll take it out this weekend and diagnose a bit more.

What was poor quality in your kit?  It used some cheap looking brackets and bell crank, but I didn't even use those, I just bolted the booster in place and swapped to the correct line ends, it was pretty much a bolt on for my 71 4x4

I appreciate the input though, hate to hear you bought something based on my purchase and it didn't work out

My truck with the 482 only has 8" vacuum. Pedal pretty much solid. If engine vacuum is way low not so sure a canister will work. Most boosters need 15" to work properly.  I have been looking at vacuum pumps. Pricey but think that is route to go.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc&tw=vacuum%20pu&sw=Vacuum%20Pumps%2C%20Street&N=4294871448

I should have noted I plan on doing some AutoCross and hoping for some longer road course events. Reason for the road race oil pan etc.
Even for stop n go traffic do not think the canister alone will cut it. Did that on a '56 Chev but did not work so well.