Author Topic: Help with 482 Build  (Read 3416 times)

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Kenny

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Help with 482 Build
« on: August 21, 2017, 02:44:50 PM »
Please Help - I recognize the talent out there and hope someone can advise:

Car: '68 Shelby GT500 Convert
Previously 455 CU 427 with HR 236/242/.600 112  - ran terribly for 10 years (also had vacuum leak); then HR 230/230/.620/114  14" vacuum easy to start, max 5500 RPM
Use: Fun around town and highway:90%, "race" 10%; race at Hallett once a year; 1 300 mile rally per year; maybe Big Bend Open Road Race @115 mph;
Brakes: Need 13 - 14 inches for stock front disk/rear drum
New Build:
CI: 490 CI  '66 427 top oiler (4.25 stroke with .06 over) 
Carbs: 2X600 or 750 Quickfuel  Intake: Blue Thunder Dual Plane Heads: Keith Craft Stage 2 Edelbrock
Comp Ratio: 10.3:1, pistons allow up to .68 lift
Valvetrain: T&D Steel Paired System
Valves: 2.19/1.75
Headers: JBA
MSD ignition
Factory Oil cooler
5 spd - wide ratio
Cam is the question:  I have asked 11 folks:  5 say "gotta be a man and get a Mech Roller Cam", and 5 say "be sane, get Hydraulic Roller, street use will kill the bearings, no lashing needed"
    1 says "solid roller on hydraulic profile cam"
To keep the requisite vacuum, most advise HR @ around 234/238 @ .620 on 112-114  ISH   or    SR @ around 240 - 246 @ .640 on 112 -114 ISH
Are "limited travel" Hyd Rollers avail for the FE?  Effective?  What would HP difference be?  Less lift on the exhaust side? What is your recommendation for cam/Lifters SR/HR? Specs? Plit duration? is 236/236 better than 232/240? Recommendations for Lifter brand/type?
Thanks for any help!!

Drew Pojedinec

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2017, 03:35:51 PM »
5500rpms?  do what ya want.  I don't see why you'd need a solid roller.

Heck I don't see why you'd need a roller at all, but I can understand the flat tappet fear.

Kenny

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2017, 05:16:23 PM »


Really wanting to know what Cam/lifters (specs/brand) would produce the most useable horsepower in the 3500 to 6000 range while maintaining approx 14" vacuum.

Thanks again!

TJ

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2017, 08:46:43 PM »
I can't select a cam to save my life but would be okay contacting the guys on this site who build engines and handle the parts for their recommendation.  Then ask them to put together a kit for you...cam, lifters, springs, etc.  That way you'll have all the right stuff and hopefully the start of a relationship for down the road when you need a dowhacky for a thingamabob or work done or whatever.

jayb

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2017, 07:21:25 AM »
It would help to know if you have a horsepower goal for the new engine, and what your desired red line RPM would be.  Also, with respect to vacuum, have you considered one of those auxiliary vacuum cannisters to provide vacuum to the booster?  That would free you up some on cam selection.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

machoneman

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2017, 08:54:46 AM »
It would help to know if you have a horsepower goal for the new engine, and what your desired red line RPM would be.  Also, with respect to vacuum, have you considered one of those auxiliary vacuum cannisters to provide vacuum to the booster?  That would free you up some on cam selection.

Yes to Jay's suggestion. My '70 Mach 1 (sorry, 351W based) only runs about 10.5-11.5 inches of vacuum. I added a Crane vac. assist canister and it works great with an easy 16"+ vacuum stored from the closed throttle/deceleration jump. Can easily stop 3-4 times in a very short time/distance test and it works great. Had it on for 13+ years now.

 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99590-1?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-crane-cams&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrdCjhv_q1QIVDItpCh3_AQgkEAQYAyABEgLWyPD_BwE

Bob Maag

unclewill

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2017, 09:47:25 AM »
I run a Comp 292H hydraulic flat tappet in my 482 with a Summit vacuum canister - perfect for the street - super strong mid range torque from 2500-5500, lumpy idle but not too wild, power brakes work great, no valve adjustments, etc.  I'm pulling 12"+ vac at cruise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjCLxIIgPX4
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

Kenny

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2017, 02:26:52 PM »
Thanks!
Previously had both an electric pump AND a canister, and the brakes still did not work, after spending at LEAST 10K on getting them rebuilt over and over.  I believe this was due to a vacuum leak.

I will assume no vacuum leaks and go back to a canister.

I am considering a 234/240 621/595 on a 12 to 114 LSA.  Does that make sense for power in the 3500 to 5500 range?  Should cam have more or less differential between intake and exhaust duration?

Final question - Short Travel hydraulic roller lifters - are they effective/needed/smart in this application?

blykins

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Re: Help with 482 Build
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2017, 02:33:05 PM »
Not enough duration and no, you definitely don't need a short travel lifter for 5500 rpm. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
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