So to start off, be aware that this is a well seasoned short block that has seen many miles. I replaced the oil pump this weekend to either band-aid an issue, or fix a bad oil pump (I was assuming the former). After replacing the pump I now have good pressure all the time (as measured by an AutoMeter Sport-Comp mech gauge).

I noticed an odd fluctuation today. If I am cruising at 2500 RPM or so she'll be running about 60 psi oil pressure. If I accelerate even just a little the pressure will drop 2-3 psi. As soon as you let up it will jump back up.

My only thought is the crank moving in the bearings and opening up the clearance, but I've never had more than a factory gauge so not used to having this level of accuracy and so I thought this may also just be insignificant.

I know I am opening my self up to all sorts of a whippin' here  but has anyone tried this stuff, say for filling a heat riser port in an iron head?   

So I know most people will say Holley.  I'd like to get opinions why.  Traditionally I have been an AFB/AVS guy for the reasons that I believed it to be a better street carb (opinion), there are no gaskets below the fuel line, and with the needles I have the ability to tune the cruise and power separately on the primary side of the carb.  For the first time I am considering a Holley carb, but to get the ability to tune the power valve I am looking at a Holley Track Warrior, or a Holley Ultra XP which come with a significant price difference over an AVS, and both come without a choke which I could probably live with if I had to (gets driven daily, so cold startup might get old).  Since my goal is to tinker and make as much HP while retaining as much fuel mileage as possible I am really looking for the tunability.  The added feature of the XP I really like that I believe will improve drivability is the Idle Air Bypass which allows you to maintain optimal closed throttle blade position and adjust the idle with a different mechanism.

So for current pricing comparison...
Thunder AVS: $420
Holley TW: $490
Holley XP: $697

As a final though, since all I am really looking for is power valve adjustability, has anyone tried or successfully just modified a plain jane 4150 metering block for power valve restrictors?  A standard 4150 is only $431.

So should I pay the Holley premium?  And if so, why.  :-)

So I was talking to a machine shop about installing hardened seats in a set of iron heads and there was a suggestion of exhaust only.  This idea intrigued me as my last set of heads was very thin between the seats and there was a small void where the iron had broke away in one cylinder after the seats were installed. 

So what are the group's thoughts on only putting a hard seat in the exhaust?  In my experience the exhaust is where you see the recession, so it makes some sense.

I recently purchased a Dyno Simulator to tune my combination before I shell out money on parts, has anyone the board had any experience?  How close do they actually come to real world?

Being my first post, at the bottom I'll provide a little bit of info about me, but I'll start with the actual reason for the post first.   

So I'm looking at the distinct possibility of building a long rod FE (332, 352, 360) and wanted to know if anyone on the forum has any experience with these.  I'm already aware that aftermarket rods are non-existent, and that pistons can be a problem as well.  I intend to use the stock rods with ARP bolts which limits my issue to pistons.  So has anyone out there built one of these?  Any idea how much RPM the rods can handle on a 3.5" stroke?  Just looking for some insight from experience.   

As for me (and this will probably answer the question as to why this idiot is shooting himself in the foot and building a long rod engine) I have been on and off toying with cars and motorcycles for the better part of 30 years but life always got in the way of the hobby.  I fell in love with the FE sound after watching Bullitt as a kid and ever since then I wanted one.  It was then I would hear my dad talk about street racing his 1960 Starliner with the solid lifter 352 in it and the hook was set.  That has set me up with a love of the short strokers.  I also am a very build it rather than buy it guy and prefer to keep external aftermarket parts confined to the intake manifold (Jay, expect an e-mail to put me on a list for an intake manifold adapter  ) and headers and use stock castings for the heads and block.  I learned of Jay and this site from Hot Rod Drag Week on YouTube (which I just found and binge watched about 6 months ago) and hope to have my '65 F-100 there for 2018 (wish I could make 2017 but I know I won't have the cage in it by then).

That's it for now, look forward to getting to know y'all!!!

-Eric