Rebuilding for track time

[truckguy933]

Sorry for the long post there's just so much more money to hotrodding and racing than I ever thought haha. Anyway I pulled the engine out today to inspect after 3 passes at the track and around 100 street miles, last pass I threw the oil pump drive rod,  so far everything looks to be ok, but I'm using this as a excuse to build for a better track time as my last E.T was averaging around 13.02 ET 104mph.
So I was wanting to see if I could tweak anything of what I got to get a little quicker time
750ultra dp
performer rpm intake
10:2.1 SCR KB flattops 8cc
Quench .052 yikes!
Stock crank stock rods with arp bolts
Offbrand Electronic ignition Greybox
Bought pair of c4ae-g heads 2.03 1.55 valves 72cc chambers I wanna port them a little bit"
Non adjustable rockers, heavy duty shafts and end stands
Comp 290lb springs
Crower 290/302. 238/248. 550/557. 108lsa 80 deg overlap 69 ABDC 7:86.1DCR pump gas 2700-6500
C6 with transbrake 3000 rpm converter.
I was considering changing my 4.11 to 4.56s but not sure of how much quicker that would make me, first time I started paying attention to numbers I'm hoping for 420-430hp after some parts tweaking  and should put me into the high 12s which is what my goal is. So would anybody have any ideas as what maybe I could tweak with..

[Machspeed]

What size is the engine? What type of vehicle is it in?

Nevermind I saw your other post. It's a 390.

[truckguy933]

 would a msd ignition and distributor  help out a little and adding cj valves to the heads??

[machyoung]

Ha Ha! Funny how "truck guy" has set his goal at high 12's. As soon as he hits high 12's his goal will become mid 12's, and then low 12's and then...well, you get it!

[truckguy933]

No sir, you are mistaken.

[truckguy933]

I just wanted to work the motor over a little more and hit atleast 12.9 1/4 mile naturally aspirated and id be more than happy.

[plovett]

How tall are your rear tires?  That might determine if the gear change from 4.11 to 4.56 will help or not.  You're running 104 mph in the traps now.  What rpm are you at then?  5500 or so?

I think some port work on the heads and 2.09/1.65" valves would help significantly, if you can swing it.

JMO,

paulie

[Falcon67]

3500 stall or better, quality converter will get you another .1 or even better.  No other changes.  If you reduced that quench to around .040 you'd pick up maybe 20 HP, without much change in compression.

[truckguy933]

I was pulling 5200 -5400 rpm at 102-104 with 28" 10"-15 goodyear slicks and of course theres little variarion from run to run,

[truckguy933]

3500 stall or better, quality converter will get you another .1 or even better.  No other changes.  If you reduced that quench to around .040 you'd pick up maybe 20 HP, without much change in compression.

What would be the best way to go about shorting the quench distance? As far as tge head gasket goes its .020 thick i dont know if i could get a .010 thick gasket that would actuelly hold out,, the pistons set .032 below deck i guess the only way would be a different pistons?

[Heo]

Decking the Block is one way

[Falcon67]

Decking the Block is one way

Only way I know.  Or a custom piston pin height.  Decking way cheaper even counting all the gaskets and such.  On my 351Cs I hold pistons at .000 or .005 below the deck and control the quench distance with the gasket.  The dragster motor is .005 with  .036 Cometic MLS. 

Converter is the big thing - my 302 Falcon only makes maybe 300 HP.  9.5:1, small hydro cam, now with a couple of 600s on a tunnel ram.  C4 with 4.56 gear.  Hooser drag radials, bald now LOL, 275-60x15.  The converter is a custom build, flashes about 4000.  Car goes 1.78 60', 8.1x @ 82 in decent weather.  That's mid 12s at over 100.  Weighs 3250 lbs.  With a 3000 street converter it might go 8.40s or so.  I drive it on the street, just have to watch the trans temp with that big converter.  Not really what you might be after, just an example.  Having a converter built for a specific purpose is not cheap but it blows the off-the-shelf units into the ditch. 

[plovett]

I was pulling 5200 -5400 rpm at 102-104 with 28" 10"-15 goodyear slicks and of course theres little variarion from run to run,

Well then you'd be turning around 5900-6000 rpm at the same speed with 4.56 gears.  Does your engine pull that high with no problems?  What rpm do you currently shift at in first and second gear? 

Also, if the 4.56 gear helps, you might be running a higher speed through the traps and so an even higher rpm.  Would you be able to turn say 6300 rpm with the cam and valve train you have?

Just some thoughts.

paulie

[truckguy933]

I was pulling 5200 -5400 rpm at 102-104 with 28" 10"-15 goodyear slicks and of course theres little variarion from run to run,

Well then you'd be turning around 5900-6000 rpm at the same speed with 4.56 gears.  Does your engine pull that high with no problems?  What rpm do you currently shift at in first and second gear? 

Also, if the 4.56 gear helps, you might be running a higher speed through the traps and so an even higher rpm.  Would you be able to turn say 6300 rpm with the cam and valve train you have?

Just some thoughts.

paulie

Yes the motor has twisted up to 6430 before but I stop it at 6200 to try to keep the stock bottom end from blowing. And honestly I never used rpm to shift I've always went with how it felt actuelly..

[bluef100fe]

Lots of things but I will start with this...  have you read this thread?

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=227.0  ...I've been where you currently are and trying to get.