Ross, fast and reliable is exactly what I want. I really want the best of both worlds. Cruise with the mrs and kids, coffee in hand then throw it out the window and hope hers isn't too hot when it gets flung back all over her as I launch it at 6000 rpm from the lights while dragging off the chev that has pulled up next to me!
You know what I mean.
I know it's a compromise but I don't want a big loping highway cruiser although I want the reliability of one. You say you have 600hp in a very streetable form, 600 is 600 right? any way it's delivered and if it does it without overheating and stalling in traffic every 5 minutes then that's the engine I'm after BUT can I have that with an extra serve of nasty?
Simple version: in its 427 form the engine idled at about 800 was really lumpy and only sounded meaner the more revs you gave it and although I don't think it had been driven in 10 or so years and was in need of a rebuild when I got it, was surprisingly fast. The first 20 minutes after it arrived from the USA was spent terrorising an elderly gent with his young wife in a Lambhorgini the full length of Canning HWY (Todd, you'll know where I'm talking about)
Considering I've owned severel 351 clevo vehicles admittedly none of them had major work done to them, the side oiler was a whole new experience.
Can I have the same "personality" as the 427 but with more cubes and HP and considering most of the engine will be brand new, decent reliability?
I don't want to spin it to 8000rpm but to have the ability to go to 7000rpm without fear of it exploding is what I'm after.
Bud, thanks for the info on the headers. Do you know if they bite as hard as Hookers when you fit them?
Todd, I'll give you a call this week, would really appreciate a ride in your Galaxy.
OK, so my setup has been together since 2006, EFI since 2009?....I forgot...it is a 489 inch 10.7:1 FE, very careful blueprinting, Sequential Port Injection based off a 89-93 Ford EEC-IV, 1400 cfm dry throttle body, ported Victor intake, ported Edelbrock heads, started life as KC Stage 2 then worked over pretty well. Cam is an Erson solid flat tappet grind with discontinued Comp lightweight lifters, relatively mild cam for a 489, but run about as tight lashed as I can and still have the valves stay closed (that happened after the EFI, with the carb it was a little more rowdy, so I ran them loose). Cam specs are 242/246, .595 lift, but measured at the valve it acts a bit more aggressive lashed at .012/.014 vice .028 Erson spec and the adjusters about as deep as I would gamble with to get the valves off the seat quickly. The power is made in the heads and intake though
This cam can chug away at 1500 in 5th with EFI, with the carb it was 1800-1900, or shift at 6500. It sure wouldn't blow up at 7000+, but it would be a waste spinning it that high. When it was carbed, it'd do the same thing, but was probably 30 hp less (WAG) . Keep in mind though, say it was 560 with the old carb/RPM intake combo, standing on it getting on the highway in 3rd would put me in a smoky drift without hitting the clutch, just a roll on. So what I am trying to say to is, ignore the numbers for the most part and build for the use. I also try to err with "more head" versus "more cam", especially in something that will be driven for miles.
FYI it idled at 1100 with the 1000 Holley and ported RPM intake, with the SEFI it idles at 900, I could go lower but I like oil being thrown around to keep the cam alive
IMHO, your combo is begging for a big hyd roller build with a serious set of heads and intake, you'll get the miles and power without hitting 7000. Remember, this is NOT a Clevor, and FE can scare you from idle to redline but you don't need to build it for the big top end charge like a Cleveland headed motor, nor does it need a 6000 rpm launch. Long runners and smaller intake port cross section don't need or want it, these engines work the whole curve.
I may have missed it, but does your side oiler have oil to the lifters?
ON EDIT - I think you could actually do what you want with iron heads, and maybe even use your existing cam, especially since it isn't a racer that needs to win rounds. However, building alum heads and selling the iron, may be a better value in the long run. Additionally, until someone figures out exactly what your cam specs are, it's tough to plan the entire package.
