Tires

[JimNolan]

Guys,
 I hope you don't get sick of me asking these questions. I can't put real wide tires on my 57 and I've been running a wide street tire for drag racing. I spin a lot coming off line and a 2.1 sec 60' time is the best I've been able to do. In fact, the 290hp 390 or the 375hp 410 give me the identical 2.1 sec 60' times. I've decided to go with a tire I can't drive on the street this year. My choices are DOT Radial or Bias Ply. They claim a manual shift car needs a Bias Ply but I'm not running a serious drag car here, I'm just doing this for fun. The car weighs 4000 lbs. How serious can you get with that. I'm running good equipment. Steel Flywheel,Lakewood Bellhousing, McClean Clutch, Tremec TKO 600, Moser 31 axles, Moser 9" 3.5 ratio Tru-Trac, 3.5" driveshaft, Traction Master traction bar. The only weak link (for what I got)  launching a 4000 lb car is a small U-joint at the differential.
NOW: WILL A DOT RADIAL BE OK FOR WHAT I GOT OR DO I NEED THE BIAS PLY. Thanks guys, Jim

[ec164]

Your not using on the street, then buy a drag slick in bias. 2nd choice would be a bias ET Street or M&H street sticky......Al

[bartlett]

A set of et streets will change your world ..

[jayb]

For your car I would definitely go bias ply.  A radial needs a very well tuned suspension setup, and a good track, to hook consistently.  Bias ply slicks are much more forgiving.

[JimNolan]

I see Hoosier makes a quick time pro bias ply tire that'll let me get in the DOT class.

[machoneman]

2X to bias ply real drag slicks on spare rims you swap on at the track.....it's the best way to fly!

[fastback 427]

I've had both Hoosier quick time pro and mickey e.t. street.  They hook about the same,  but the Hoosier seems to "flat spot" from setting in a few days. Also the mickeys seem to have less of a bulge on the sidewall.

[JimNolan]

Thanks guys, especially fastback, the section width observation means a lot to me. I'm really limited to what size tire I can put under that 57. I use an 8" wheel and I'm running a 9.75 section width tire now. I'm going to do some more measuring and see if I can up it to 10.5" with a new back space wheel.

[cjshaker]

A 4000lb stick shift car with slicks and 1330 U-joints is just begging for problems. I'd seriously consider upgrading to solid 1350s if your plan is to hook solidly, which the bias plys will do if ran properly. A broken U-joint can cause all sorts of carnage in the trans or rear...or both, even in a mildly built car.

Cory is right about the sidewall flex, it's nowhere near as bad in a bias compared to radial.

[Grbmaverickmo]

I`m gona run the American Racers on my 54 this yr they make the old bias letter sizes, They have a L-60/15 a G-60/15 and a 295-50/15 which is close to a M-50 thats the one I`m gona use. They have a website with all there sizes and tread compounds. Me and my friends have used them for yrs on are street cars they hook well and have some tread so if you get caught in the rain.

[ScotiaFE]

Further to what Doug has mentioned you will need at least a safety loop in the front
to be track legal for most places and I recommend the rear loop as while.
You can use the 1330 but I would use the solid steel non grease able type.

[JimNolan]

Thanks guys, I'll go with a bias ply tire. Won't be a real big one because it won't fit under the car if it is. The 1330 I'll leave alone right now due to the way I leave the line. I have better 60' times if I leave the line at idle and come down on the gas as the clutch is coming out. I tried revving it up to 2000 rpm but it spun too much giving me an extra .3 on my 60' time. The best time I've had so far is 2.1 and if I don't have to get out of the gas after I launch I'm hoping to break into the 13's. I'll see what happens with the bias ply and that may change everything. A friend of mine from MI said his 66 Fairlane brought the wheels off the ground with a 1330 until the rear end case busted and he didn't see me having a problem with the 1330 and the nodular case I'm running. I'll keep an eye on it and if I launch real hard I'll change it.

[NIsaacs]

Don't forget you are installing drag tires, they will hook, your car will not be the same. To take advantage of them you will need to put your foot in it. With 3.50 gears there will be a lot of drive line torque. The 1330 u-joint is small and wide, very weak, the 1310 is even stronger. I think your FE will need the 1350. Keep in mind if it breaks it's usually not just the u-joint, it can destroy both yokes and the back lash can break the rear axle gears, sometimes even the tranny.

Nick

[ScotiaFE]

I say if he is going to rip anything out of the car it will be the Traction Masters.
Just be reasonable with the side step and the old Ford is pretty tough.
Go have fun and don't worry.

[JimNolan]

Thanks guys,
 I called Moser and they had my information on what I'd bought in 2011. Apparently the Tremec end of the drive shaft is 1350 and the differential end is 1310 instead of 1330. Sooooo, they informed me the rear end I got didn't have the crush sleeves and I'll be able to replace it without having to take the differential apart. They are sending me the yoke and everything I need. He said it was a PY200 yoke. I'll have to look it up.
The Driveshaft I'll take to Ft. Wayne while it's out of the car and hopefully they'll be able to save it and just replace the end. It's 3 1/2" in diameter and balanced great, I'd hate to lose the balance. Thanks guys for not letting up on me. Anymore, is less about the money and more about the work that each endeavor holds in store for me.
Thanks again. Jim