Tires

[My427stang]

I recommend you take the pinion housing assembly out and do it on the bench.  Not the whole pumpkin, just the pinion assembly, then you can verify that the pinion bearings are correctly loaded.  Extremely easy to do

[BigNate]

A set of et streets will change your world ..

I have no doubt that many (if not most) here have more passes on sticky tires than I do - but I'm another fan of the MT drag radials.  My stuff is slow and on street tires these days - but I've been in a car that went 10.0X @ 13X with 1.48 60' on them...  This was a full weight, full interior, power adder mustang.  Not sure that it was fully 4000 lbs but it was probably close (I looked up factory weight and found about 3800 lbs). 

They are not quite slick sticky - but for a street tire they are very good on dry pavement and GREAT on a prepped track...   

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadial

just my 2 cents...

[JimNolan]

I watched some videos of setting preload. Also one video that the guy measured the distance from the top of the nut to the end of the shaft and just retightened to that depth. I'm not using crush sleeves. And for the life of me I can't see how to capture the assembly to tighten the nut very much if it's not left in the housing. I'll figure it out. Thanks, Jim

[jayb]

To capture the assembly you just grab the yoke; the pinion shaft is splined, so holding the yoke holds keeps the shaft from turning.  Slide the yoke on the pinion, screw on the nut a few turns, hold the yoke in the vise, and tighten the nut.

[JimNolan]

I wasn't think, thanks Jay. Is 20 inch pounds right for a used bearing?

[jayb]

I've been told 25 inch pounds for new, and 15-20 for used - Jay

[JimNolan]

Well, I got the 1350 differential yoke from Moser. Emailed Wheel Vintiques for price on a couple 15 X 8 w/ 5.125" BS Series 62 wheels for the tires. Spent two days researching tires and the biggest I can go is the Hoosier Quick Time Pro 26X9.50-15 tire. It's a 10" section width. That's it. I haven't got any more clearance. Called Ft. Wayne Drive Shaft and as soon as the weather gets a little warmer I'll have them change the end on my driveshaft to a 1350 U-Joint. That's it. The fastest I've went is 14.3 while spinning a long way coming off line. I hope it'll break into the 13's with the changes I'm making. I know that's not fast for you guys but for a car I take 600-950 mile trips to car shows with regularly it'll be a treat to drive.
Thank you guys for all the advice you've given me. The motor runs great, a few leaks but I'll get them. It's a motor I can use for any occasion. Thanks for helping me put this car together. Jim

[My427stang]

Jay gave you good advice.

I will add, don't overthink the preload of the bearings.  The measuring distance  is NOT a good idea IMHO, it assumes the last guy did it right.  I go by feel or recommend using the torque values.

As you tighten, the housing which is hanging loose with the yoke in the vise, will initally have slop.  Like a loose wheel bearing.

As you tighten more, the slop will get less.  You want zero slop, then a little preload.  20, 25 in lbs, really doesn't matter that much, just be sure there is a little drag on it without being able to feel the rollers because it is too tight.

Finally, be sure to have a good or new locknut, and a couple drops of Loctite is not bad on top of that.  Once you get that drag/preload, you want it to stay that way. 

Also keep in mind if you leave it in the car, you are not measuring drag of the pinion bearing preload alone, you are measuring rotating resistance of the entire pumpkin and even the axles and brakes.  So the bench is the best.

In the end though, if this rear has spacers instead of crush tube, likely you will just zonk it down and it will be perfect.  If it has NOTHING, which is OK too, then you need to be a little more carfeul

[JimNolan]

My427stang,
   I finally got what you guys were telling me about taking the pinion out of the housing. And, it uses a solid spacer, it doesn't use a crush sleeve. I'll find a dial torque wrench to put it back on. 1 1/4 pounds of torque after no slop isn't very much. The new yoke came with a new nut and spacer. Thanks

[My427stang]

If you have a spacer, just zonk it down with an impact and check for slop as you tighten for peace of mind.

The spacer IS the determiner of preload, that is a very good thing. 

[BruceS]

Hey Jim,
Once you get past this little issue with the '57, how about giving us a rundown on that '63 Boxtop?  I'd like to hear some details of that 406. 

from a fellow '63 owner...
Bruce

[JimNolan]

BruceS,
   That 406 63 Boxtop isn't a true 406. The block is the only thing I couldn't find. I ended up putting a 390+.030 block in it. Granted, everything except the forged L2291F30 pistons and the block are 406. I added the deep sump oil pan and windage tray and Mad Dog headers with 2.5" exhaust. The Cam is a Lunati 282/296 214/224 .500/.500 that allows me to run mid grade gas. It ended up with a .030 quench, 10.7 CR / 8.1 DCR engine. I had a 3.50 Trac-Loc in it and the Jay Broader wide ratio C6 would light up the tires in every gear. But, then I wanted to drive it. Soooo, in goes a 2.75 ring and pinion and a period correct AC unit. I also added power brakes. It looks like a 385HP 406 but best estimates are it's got about 370HP. It's taken first place at the Ford Nationals and got a Celebrity award last year. I have no regrets with this car. I don't trailer it and it's been all over the country in the last 3 years under it's own steam, it's never been on a trailer because it's a pleasure to drive and comfortable on a trip. Granted, it leaves a lot to be desired on takeoff but it'll set you back in the seat once it gets rolling. We'll have it at the Galaxie Nationals at Tupelo, MS, if the purist's don't like it at the Galaxie Nationals I'll park it with Allen Hutchinson's group around the corner. I'm registered for both events.
And Bruce, thank you for asking about the 63. If you're on Facebook look my name up and I'll friend you.  I'd like to see pictures of your 63. Jim

[BruceS]

Jim,
Here's a link to my original post back in early 2013 on the Galaxie.   

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=891.msg7386#msg7386   

I'm also thinking of going to the Galaxie Nationals in May in Tupelo.  Like you, I'm going to keep mine as a driver that I won't mind taking on some long trips; that factory Ford Selectaire is working great! 

Bruce

[JimNolan]

Alright guys,
 I've rounded the list down for tires that will fit underneath my car. Choices are slim when you don't have clearance. I know the MT Streets are popular but they won't fit. Remembering I'm putting a 4000 lb. + car on the track with a manual transmission with only @375HP, tell me which one you'd choose. These are tires @26 inches in Dia. that will put me @ 4700 rpm across the line.

1.  Mickey Thompson ET Drag----- 8.1 Tread Width-----L8 compound        (half way between soft and Medium)
2.  Hoosier Drag Tire----------------9.0 Tread Width-----C11 compound     (close to Medium on the + side)
3.  Hoosier Drag Tire----------------8.0 Tread Width-----D06 compound     (half way between soft and Medium)
4.  Hoosier Quick Time Pro----------8.0 Tread Width-----Quick Time Pro    (soft)
Thanks guys, Jim

[fastback 427]

If your going to run slicks don't forget about Goodyear. I have their 29 x 9 on my  67 fairlane and they fit in with no modifications. The Hoosier qtp you are looking at will hook your car great, IMHO. My buddy has them in the 26 x 8. He has a 1.50 60 ft. His car hooks with a 175 shot of nos and will pick the tires on the track or street.  I like the street tires because they hook the same as my slicks and I don't have to change wheels and tires to race.