Hi,
   I recently picked up a 1964 Monterey Marauder 2 door. I'm looking for a steering wheel and door panels.....probably other odds and ends as well..

   

   Hi,
    Been a while since I've been on here. For the past few seasons I've been driving my 68 Colony Park with the 483. This car consistently runs hot. Usually cruises at 215-220, sometimes 225. That's running 75 mph at 2400 rpm. The air temp has to be in the 50's for the thermostat to regulate at 180. The radiator has been recored with a new "high efficiency" core---or I paid the extra 300 for a name.
    One of the things that helped knock down the temp by about 10-15 degrees was to shut off coolant flow through the heater core. Without a blower fan moving air over the core, the hot coolant is circulated back into the block essentially bypassing the radiator. My car should have a heater control valve, but it was not installed. One heater hose was clamped shut with pliers to realize the improvement.  While I haven't done anything about it yet, I wonder if the bypass tube between the manifold and water pump can be too big? As it would also allow hot coolant to recirculate into the engine. I believe there needs to be some form of movement to stabilize temps across the engine. However, can this bypass tube be restricted down a bit to force more coolant through the radiator? I recently bought a used manifold that had the bypass totally blocked. Again, I feel coolant movement is beneficial to temp balance. Hmmm...I wonder if the bypass could be blocked if a few holes were drilled in the thermostat base plate to allow circulation?------thoughts?
    The car uses '65+ 427 cast headers. Pondering the possibilities, these headers have quite a bit of mass and will be over 400 degrees. I feel that heat is traveling right into the heads. After turning off the engine, the temp will hit 250. It seems there is a lot of stored heat in the exhaust manifolds that is balancing out the engine to a hot soak temp higher than it should be.  Has anyone else found the long cast iron manifold/headers to cause higher running temps?

   

   

Looking for an Autolite 4300 carb for a 390 with automatic trans for a 69 Cougar. Tag would be C9ZF-F

    Thanks,
         Mark
     firsteliminator@aol.com

  Hey guys,
  Now, it's the beginning of September.  The last time I spent any time working on my wagon was a tad over 4 months ago, 3 days before Beaver Springs. I was supposed to have this CP wagon on the track at Beaver Springs, but due to a tick in the engine, having the flew and burnt out from many late nights, I threw in the towel.  Luckily,  Dennis (Towd56) brought down the 67 Country Squire which brought a smile to everyone's face that loves the old wagons. I certainly enjoyed  watching him run. On the other hand I might have been a little jealous as I could have been out there too if everything went right. So, after Beaver Springs the wagon sat, untouched.
   Then comes September 1st, which was the day of Musclepalooza put on by Hemmings at a dragstrip in New Lebanon, NY.  The 67 Country Squire was there too. Watching his wagon run again gave me the inspiration to get back in gear on mine. Last night I pulled the oil pan to find the tick. My suspicion was the windage tray and thankfully that is what I found.  The problem with it was the oil pump pick up was pressing up on the tray.   #1 or #2 rod bolt head was just scraping against it.  I decided to remove the windage tray instead of fixing it.  Everything went back together.
    Today, I filled it with oil and coolant. I turned the key and the darn thing probably didn't make one full revolution before cranking up. I actually drove a short distance withe the CP tonight. Very short. Backed out of the bay and back in to swap vehicles around. MSD Atomic EFI is on the engine and I spent a little time tuning it and adjusting the ignition timing.  It was nice to hear it run for a bit. The full exhaust is very quiet, which I love. There are still other odds and ends to button up on the CP. The plan is to drive it this weekend.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKttzAGq5RM

Is there such a thing as a Do it yourself "Size your own Pushrods kit"? I have a lathe, arbor press even a cylindrical grinder. Dial calipers and even a Pratt & Whitney Super Micrometer that might accommodate the length of a pushrod.  A kit like this seems like something that would be out there. Pushrods with one end off that you size the tube length and press in the end.

   Does this exist?

   Over a year ago, I bought parts to make a 482 for the 68 Colony Park station wagon. The project has been on hold for quite a bit. Today, while cleaning the shop I had to move the 482 stuff. I decided to look at the pistons. They are a Mahle with a 20cc dish. It seems the only part of this piston that has quench is the ring around the outside edge. Is this a sufficient amount of quench area? I thought maximizing that area to mirror the available quench area on the head would be optimal. I looked at another engine that is on hold, a 545 storked 460 with diamond pistons. It has a deep dish, and the quench area is at the top surface of the piston. I'm sure this Mahle will go in the 482 and work. But, a stock engine just works too. Building this engine I feel the intent should be to optimize things, within reason of cost.  If the benefits of quench are not utilized on this piston design, should I look for a different set of pistons? With so little time and a bunch of projects to do I barely have time to do things once. I'd hate to put this engine together to find it has a detonation issue.

  The 482 Mahle is in the foreground and the 545 Diamond is behind.

     Hey guys,

      One of the things to do on my list is rebuild an Autolite 4300. I've been trying to look up info about this carb, but there isn't a whole lot out there. I saw somewhere that Pony Carbs had put out a book called Ford Carburetor Guide ---4th edition. Pony Carbs is now owned by Champion Carbs. I called Champion and they do not have that book. Has anyone seen this book? Is it worth trying to find? If anyone has it, is there an ISBN number on it?  Rebuild advice would be helpful, but a list of the different versions of the Autolite and Motorcraft carbs is something I'm after.

   thanks,
      Mark