They seem to be in short supply at the moment, wondering if anyone has a ford racing 302 “BOSS” block, 8.2 inch D.H, 4.125+ bore preferred.

Thanks

Joe

With my FE Power headed 520 on hold for who knows how long.....
Jay's been fighting the covid 2 week " shut down" a full 2 and a half years later.
My block and rotating assembly have been at the machine shop since last june, and it hasn't yet been touched.

I've decided to start on another project for the summer.

Target is 500-530 ish HP, and a high rpm redline.
mustang will be a spirited pump gas daily driver, T56 manual 6 speed, 4.11 rear gears, manual steering and manual brakes.
Weekend cruiser, not a drag car.

So far I have tentatively planned the following group of parts :

Stock roller block, .030 overbore
-I decided against an aftermarket block for now, i would rather put that $$$ else where and save some weight. with the aftermarket block, not sure the extra 16 cubes is worth the extra weight and expense. I know the bigger bore helps with valve shrouding and thicker cylinder walls are always good, but for my power goals I think the extra ~$3000 would be better spent elsewhere.-

Scat rotating assembly ( forged or cast crank ?)
Mahle Flat top pistons (4032 alloy )

AFR 195 or 205cc heads ( 10.5 to 11.0 CR, maybe more, i live at 5400 feet )

Jesel shaft mount rockers

Solid roller cam ( or a hydraulic roller..... )

Intake manifold yet to be decided on.

I want the ability to rev this thing to 7000-7500 rpm, maybe higher.

I know the heads might be on the large side, and the shaft mount rockers are probably overkill, but i want the option to play around with it, rev it higher if i get a wild hair.

Wondering what the experts think of this selection of parts ?
Any advice is appreciated. I have not ordered any parts yet.


Joe
 

My Cam showed up last month, Thanks Brent.

Its a Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller that Brent spec'd out for me.

I am wondering What the best material to use is, I've heard that there is a composite gear that is good for street use?

This will be a daily driver, so I would like to use something that will last.

Thanks

Joe

The hot rod bug bit me again, I found a good late model roller cam 302 block on FB for a reasonable price.

Bought it last week and tore it down, block looks to be in excellent shape, no noticeable cylinder ridge, pistons popped right out. Didn’t see any signs of it having cracks or bulges from freezing, and it turned over easy once I got the heads off.

My long term goal for my 64.5 mustang will be a 363 stoker based on a dart or ford block, but since 347 stroker kits are cheap as dirt, I’ve got a hankering to throw together a hot little 347 for now, and maybe to keep around as a spare later.

My thought for now are a scat 9000 crank, scat I beam rods and a set of 4032 mahle flat tops.
Throw a set of AFR 195’s on it and use a 224-230 ish ( intake & .050 ) cam in it.
It’s a manual trans with 3.73 gears, no power brakes.

Wondering what suggestions or advice the great FE hive mind might have on that combo. Also, is there a good place to buy a rotating assembly ready to go?
The internet is chock full of kits, but don’t like ordering such things from just any old flea bay shop.

Thanks

Found a guy on FB in my town listing an Edelbrock F 427 intake and a carb, not much detail in the pic,
But what I can see if it, the manifold looks just fine, and looks like it was just removed from an engine
( at least it doesn’t look like it’s been sitting on the dirt floor of a damp shed for the last 30
Years )
And a Holley 4 bbl.

Guy is asking $400 for it. I don’t need it, I’ve got an RPM new in the box, and a street master, and a Cleveland street master with Jays adapter….. so I need another intake like I need another hole in my head.

But it looks like a good , and somewhat rare manifold so might be nice to have.

What do y’all think? From what I gather it’s not a terrible intake. I’m out of town for a week, so I don’t have access to my TGFEIC , can’t remember how that one held up in Jays testing.

All advice welcome and appreciated .

Joe

I heard someone say that HP is much cheaper than carbon fiber, but I still think the lighter the better.

Though I’m still in the daydreaming phase of rebuilding my mustang, I figure it’s still a good idea to trim weight where I can and within reason. For instance, upgrading the brakes gave me the opportunity to buy some willwood dynalite stuff, as well as an aluminum master cylinder. Win win there, and for not a while lot more coin than OEM iron stuff.

So on the engine side of things, aluminum heads, intake and water pump are a given.
But I am wondering how much weight can be saved by going to an aluminum block (302) ? I’m guessing, based on the internet, that it’s somewhere in the neighborhood of 60-90 pounds?
I’ve also read that the stock 302 crank is pretty light, and that aftermarket cranks tend to be heavier, but looking at some of the scalloped higher end ultra light forged crank offerings I have a hard time believing that there can’t be some weight savings there. And ( still daydreaming here ) getting a super light weight rotating assembly might be a whole lot of fun.

So has anyone here ever built up a light weight 302 based engine, and did you weigh it compaired to a stock, iron everything motor?

It’s time to order some pistons for my engine.

I’ve been talking with Jay about pistons for his heads.

His design currently has gas ports.

Just curious if there were and pros or cons for having them on a 10.7 to 1
“Warm” street engine?
The engine may get a little rowdier cam down the road ( 6500 - 7000 )or so 
But for now should peak about 6000.

Right now I’m looking at a dished version of the same piston Jay is using in his dyno mule.
Just wondering if I should keep the ports or omit them.

Thanks
Joe

Ok guys/gals, this it technically not FE, but I hope you all will give me a pass because it is a Ford and it is a 65 mustang.

My Grandmother bough the car brand new, and it’s been in the family since then. Unfortunately, when I was young, maybe 10 give or take a few years, it got put out to pasture and has been there every since.

The good news is that Its in remarkably good shape considering it’s 40 some years of neglect. Bad news is that, when my dad was a young gear head, he opted to pull the origional 265 and trans out and put a 302 and different trans in its place. So it will never be a numbers matching resto...

I finally got around to working on it a few days ago, and it runs and drives now. I pulled the plugs to squirt some oil in The cylinders. I also changed the oil and filter, then I pulled the distributor and used a drill to prime the oil system. Old girl fired right up after a bit of coaxing.

New fuel tank and some interior parts are on the way, but the next thing to do is get brakes on it. And that is where I am hoping for a bit of advice.

Initially my thought was to rebuild the drums in the rear, and upgrade to discs up front. I have no plans to road race this thing, I just want a fun daily driver. So I don’t see the need for disc brakes out back. However I am not opposed to it either.

I have a set of 16 inch rims on order, so I may be able to get a larger disc up front as well.
I am looking at the willwood 4 piston calipers for the front, with possibly a 12 inch rotor. I would like to stay with a manual master cylinder for now, to keep the engine bay a bit cleaner.
I am having a bit of trouble finding a complete kit that does all this, there are lots of kits for power brakes but I can’t find any that offer either disc/drum or disc/disc with a manual master.

So, I am open for suggestions! Let me know what you have, how you like it and what you recommend.
My budget for the brakes is pretty open, but I would like to keep it under $1500 or so.