Intro and current project

[turbohunter]

Update.
Took the traction bars off in order to install shocks and immediately started going through u joints.
Interesting circumstance here.
The first replacement was for a VERY worn joint, but it was what you would expect.
Replaced the joint and within two days blew through the new one.
Weird, I've done u joints my entire life and that never happened.
Replaced that one with a new heavier duty deal from the same maker and blew through it in two days again.
Upon inspection, the two busted caps were dry.
I had noticed that no grease popped out of those caps upon lubing.
Both times. I'm assuming I ran into a run of joints with a blockage in the lube passages.
Parts store guys tell me that sometimes hard grease will block the passage.
So, installed another joint. Carefully lubed it on my bench using C clamps to hold the caps.
Perfection.
Installed the newest joint along with the traction bars, now located to the rear hole to see if it helped the binding.
Figured the extra torque, big tires, and graduated springs are the factors combining to tear 'em up.
So back in with the bars.
It does help a lot.
So far so good.
BTW my local great parts store replaced all joints, no questions asked.
Pays to be a good customer.

[turbohunter]

Spoke to soon.
Heard bearings pop this morning on the way to work.
Easy take offs. Being careful. Traction bars installed so no bad movement. Lubed well on bench and then installed.
No caps fall off. Easy spin.
Differential side every time though. Joint is in place under tabs. Collars tight.
Questioning the universe.

[thatdarncat]

You're not tightening the collars TOO tight are you? that can cause an issue by deforming the caps. Not sure of the design you have. Just asking.

[turbohunter]

I guess it's possible Kevin.
Never had a problem before.
Maybe I'm getting stronger in my old age.
I guess it's supposed to be about 15 lbs.
I don't know how much more I could go with a 1/2 inch wrench.
But I'll be more careful with that on the next go 'round.

[thatdarncat]

Maybe make sure you have locking nuts or locktite.

[turbohunter]

Hmm
Locking nuts would be great. Just have normal lock washers now.
Good idea.

[shady]

maybe joints without grease fittings. greaseable joints have to be hollow to let the grease through. non greasable solid? I don't know, just thinkin out loud.

[turbohunter]

Yeah I'm thinking this might be a good reason to update everything and go to a bigger joint.
The ole "as long as I'm doing this, I may as well do that" syndrome.

[superduty]

Check end play. Sometimes yoke will get bent on disassembly or axle yoke will have rust build up or galling on the ears
and will pinch the caps together too tight. Will take out a new u joint fast. Before installing joint on shaft install it in the
axle yoke and check for free movement. If too tight in shaft you might have to spread the yoke slightly with a drift to
get free movement.

[turbohunter]

Funny you bring that up.
I have a sneaking suspicion about parts. But the new ones.
Explanation.
Today I installed a u joint that I had forgotten about in my garage. Have had it for at least a year.
The joints I had installed in the past week have been a difficult fit between the tabs.
This one slid right in. So you see where I'm going. Also the caps have been breaking at the seal.



Stop and go traffic on the way to work and the old one from my garage worked fine.
To soon to be sure of anything though.
BTW checked and cleaned yokes, they seem fine. Also mic'd the caps and found no deformation.
There is however to much play in the diff so I'll fix that.

[ScotiaFE]

That is a pretty rough looking forging just from the little bit I can see.
A critical part such as that and well pretty much any part that actually
goes on the truck should at least come from a box with a bit of colour on it.

[machoneman]

maybe joints without grease fittings. greaseable joints have to be hollow to let the grease through. non greasable solid? I don't know, just thinkin out loud.

2X as I'd never use  a greaseable  joint in a high hp car. Tried that long ago and they did break right across the drilled and tapped zerk fitting hole!

[Barry_R]

Brand on U-joint?
Usually the answer to U-joint problems is "Spicer".

The majority of parts store joints these days are the cheapest parts the "manufacturer" (the term often now used for the company that installs parts in pretty boxes) can get out of China.  They can make good parts over there if you specify them - but almost every buyer I ever met in the replacement parts corporate world was interested in the cheapest they could find, and then can they get a better deal...

[turbohunter]

They're Moog joints Barry. Supposedly made in USA.
They have a grease fitting in the cap in order to eliminate the zirk in the body.
Update
I ran the joint I had in my garage yesterday to and from work and even got on it on the way home.
The joint held and worked well.
I've had it in my garage for at least a year so it would presumably be a different run than the four I had installed previously.
Will get on it again today and see what happens.
The second day is when they've been failing.

[My427stang]

How are you pressing them in? Anything different about the way you install?

Any strange marks anywhere?

Immediately after install, do them move nice and free?  I have seen some yokes that bind and you have to give the ears a good rap outward to free the joint after pressing it in.  I can't say that I would expect that to break a joint if you didn't do that, but I suppose if the bore alignment was off enough it could.

If I read this correctly you have broken a few in a short period, that doesn't sound like a joint problem, sounds like either an installation or bind issue.