Author Topic: Does anything suggest a rear seal replacement? Oil leak, trans removed - video  (Read 1747 times)

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fairlaniac

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Some of you know of my oil leak I got in my 427 shortly after installing it last spring. This is the second time pulling the trans, clutch, etc... I am in the process of pulling the engine but looking at the video. I'm not sure if I see enough evidence to re do the rear seal and side seals. It's looking like a lot of oil is coming out the back of the intake, mainly running down the left side of the back of the block and towards the oil pan. There is also some evidence of it dripping straight down and running around the cam plug. There is a little along the right side but not as much as the left? The right side seal part line doesn't have any dye and the left side has a bit at the bottom by the pan which may be the run off from up top? That is my thinking. Any comments or thoughts to not pull the engine and perform a rear main install or should I pull it? An intake gasket job is definitely in order. Thanks!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXYSpOayIHc
« Last Edit: April 26, 2021, 07:51:06 AM by fairlaniac »
Doug Bender
1966 Fairlane 427+/5 Spd TKX

lstanford

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2021, 08:58:02 PM »
Have you resealed the rear China wall? I use the grey Motorcraft diesel sealant and never have a problem.

6667fan

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2021, 09:05:40 PM »
X2 on TA-31 sealant.
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

fairlaniac

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2021, 09:09:47 PM »
I used TA-31 upon installation. Are you suggesting a post installation use of it?
Doug Bender
1966 Fairlane 427+/5 Spd TKX

6667fan

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2021, 06:53:19 AM »
Doug, I was endorsing the sealant should you elect to remove/replace the intake. However, people sometimes get lucky with a post seal smear back there. Depends how bad the leak is and how clean you can get the surfaces. And how small your hands are.
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Gregwill16

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2021, 07:33:04 AM »
Definitely worth the effort to make an attempt at trying to seal it up from the outside before pulling the engine.

fairlaniac

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2021, 08:29:44 AM »
Still looking for thoughts on if this is worthy to pull the engine or the intake? I'm on the fence.
Doug Bender
1966 Fairlane 427+/5 Spd TKX

superduty

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2021, 09:07:49 AM »
Is this thing building crankcase pressure? Too many leaks for a fresh build. Seems like you were meticulous on assembly.
Do you have the correct size and type of PCV and tubing and or breathers?  An obstructed PCV tube caused multiple oil leaks
on a Windsor I once owned.

fairlaniac

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2021, 06:10:21 PM »
You know, that may be a concern? I am running a breather on the L.H. and a PCV (new) on the R.H. pulled at the Sniper base. However while running and the breathe off I would see whisps of "steam" come out of the valve cover. Obviously it assembled and I'm not into tearing it apart. If I have a CC pressure issue, short of tearing apart. What are to options? Also, how much is too much pressure?

Thanks,
Doug Bender
1966 Fairlane 427+/5 Spd TKX

427John

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Re: Oil leak second take: Trans removal and video
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2021, 07:02:33 PM »
The first step would be to determine how much crankcase vapor you have by disconnecting the PCV and observing how much you have under various conditions.Using that you can then determine which PCV valve you want to use,normal passenger car valves tend to be a lower capacity than the ones used on the 427's originally,which was the same one used on medium duty truck engines that had a higher capacity to deal with the expected higher amount of cylinder leakage into the crankcase due to the continuous heavy loading of the truck engines and the looser assembly tolerances of the 427's.This was an inline style PCV valve with a C1TF part number that could be disassembled for cleaning if necessary.

winr1

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Put a pressure gauge on one cover and block the other cover

I did that many moons ago when cars first started getting cat. converters

Mostly chevys, the vehicle would have no power and techs were looking for bad timing sets and such

I put a gauge on a newish vehicle and one that had no power, stopped up ones were 3 to 5 lbs if I remember correctly

EDIT:

Have you put a finger on the PCV valve to see if there is vacuum ??



Ricky.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2021, 09:04:41 PM by winr1 »