I'm back in the city for a couple of days, but I'll get back to the shop tomorrow or the Wednesday. I'll try to post up some pics and detail any issues I've had. The most difficult thing thus far was pulling the pedestals off. Other than that it hasn't been too bad.

I'm pretty sure ballasts are used in racecars where there is a weight requirement. The car is built to be lighter than the requirement and ballasts are used to meet the weight requirement. The locations of the weights are strategically selected to increase the normal force on the tires to alter handling characteristics by increasing traction. Cornering can cause body roll that shifts weight, thus decreasing normal force and traction (coefficient of friction) on the light side while increasing it on the heavy side. Uniform circular motion requires that all forces are proportional to maintain uniform circular motion, if those requirements aren't met the car will veer off the path toward the center of the circle, or be pulled off its arch toward it. Adding weight alone will slow the car. I would think that if there wasn't any weight requirements more attention would be directed toward improving weight transfer. I'm not a road racer or anything, so I could be dead wrong. If I wanted better balance for cornering I would look into decreasing body roll, shifting the engine farther back, lighter parts, independent rear suspension, etcetera. Hopefully I didn't butcher it too badly. It's been a while since I studied physics.

Possibly a dumb question, but I don't think it matters if my checking spring is the same as my installed height? Right? As long as it keeps the keepers and retainer holding the valve it shouldn't matter.

Hahaha, you're right. I suppose I could. Thanks!

Thanks Brent! I watched your video on the 496 build and you mentioned your technique. My question is-- To find my pattern to check the geometry, do I mark the valve tip and use the technique I mentioned? I guess I'm asking what method do I used to actuate the rocker and valve to get the pattern if I don't have the correct pushrod yet?

My dad bought some headers similar to these pictured below. I don't have the part number at the moment, but they look similar to the Jegs version. Should we run them? The only caveat I see is that I think they'll need to be opened up a little to fit the CJ heads. Thanks.

Just be patient and flexible I guess. I ordered my shifter for the 6R80 conversion before Christmas. It is supposed to ship tomorrow......

I hope you get it. I try to be patient, but I'm finishing a degree before medical school, so I only get short periods of time between semesters to get anything done... or to even think about anything other than school for that matter. Haha, life is hard, but I enjoy messing with these old Fords and GM engines when I can.

Quote from: 390rpm on June 09, 2021, 04:15:06 PM

I ordered an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and carb package 61 days ago today. This afternoon I finally received a reason for the delay. I was told, "..due to an intake machine malfunction we have no eta on your parts... we guess they'll be there in another six to eight weeks". I suppose stuff happens, so I guess I'll cancel the order and go with a Blue Thunder or a Streetmaster. Unless if I find someone who has a RPM intake stocked.

-- I think I'm leaning toward the Blue Thunder 427 MR intake. I found a 428 CJ HR listed, but I assume there would be a port mismatch with the 6090-N heads. I'm still new to the FE. I'll appreciate any suggestions.

401 cubic inches, 10.07:1, CJ heads (SS valves-3 angle valve job- light porting with bowl blend), Comp Cams springs, RPM cam and chain, Harland Sharp Roller rockers, Precision Oil Pumps end stands

What car / trans / converter / rear is it going in?

Still interested in an Ed RPM intake?

Still debating the vehicle. Possibly a 1969 F100. We have a 66 Fairlane, 64 Galaxie and 61 Starliner as well. One of those four will get it. The trans will be a T-5 and gears will likely be 4.10.