Author Topic: Side Oiler Bypass Valve  (Read 2795 times)

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unclewill

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Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« on: January 14, 2016, 12:48:56 PM »
I'm building my first side oiler.  The bottom rear drivers side of the block has 2 larger threaded holes, one threaded hole on the oil pan rail (outside the pan), and one plugged hole on the journal leading to the rear main bearing.  The oil pump I installed has a built in bypass valve.  My plan is to plug all of the holes and forget about the rear mounted bypass valve.  Have I missed anything?  Any thoughts?
I also have a larger hole in front of the oil filter mount which I plugged (service block).  Is this typical?
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

cjshaker

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2016, 01:20:47 PM »
Those are typical sideoiler holes, but you can't just plug the hole at the back of the block because of the internal holes used for bleeding off oil pressure by the bypass valve. If you have the valve you could simply shim it up solid using a piece of rod or properly sized nuts. If you don't have the valve you can use a piece of properly sized and length of rod extending past the holes to effectively block them off. Just make sure it's the right size so that you're not bleeding off oil pressure unnecessarily.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

unclewill

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2016, 01:50:13 PM »
I guess I'm lost on where the bled off oil would go?  I don't recall seeing any holes inside the oil pan, though I won't be taking the pan off to look.  Does anyone have any specs on the replacement rod?  Or a lead on the bypass valve?
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

cjshaker

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2016, 02:11:25 PM »
The holes are at the rear of that passage, facing inward, and as the valve is pushed back by oil pressure, it exposes the holes and bleeds off oil into the pan. Doug at Precision Oil Pumps has the valve and spring assembly. He's a good guy to deal with. You can just use a nut behind the spring to shim it up to the point that it won't open. I don't recall the size of the hole offhand, but I'm sure someone can chime in with that info, and for the rod.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

unclewill

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2016, 02:25:12 PM »
Thanks for the tip, I just ordered the bypass valve.  Now, what about that hole in the oil pan rail?  Looks like fine threads...what did the factory do with it?  What do I do with it?  I was thinking I'd run a short bolt into it with thread sealer for lack of a more elegant solution...
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

cjshaker

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2016, 01:38:53 PM »
You should be able to find the correct pipe plug at your local hardware store. A bolt is not designed for pipe threads and has very little chance of sealing properly for any length of time.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Autoholic

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Re: Side Oiler Bypass Valve
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2016, 12:24:28 AM »
Check the other thread titled the same. Lots of discussion as to whether or not you should eliminate the function of the rear pressure relief valve.

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=3471.0
~Joe
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