2 intake gaskets 1 side

[Saltshaker]

When using 2 gaskets on one side does that change the gemonerty of the push rods and the intake?
Does the intake need to be clearenced for the pushrods?
Jon

[fe66comet]

I cannot help to ask but why would you use two intake gaskets on one side of your intake? Why not a thicker set of gaskets lf that is the issue?

[jayb]

When using 2 gaskets on one side does that change the gemonerty of the push rods and the intake?
Does the intake need to be clearenced for the pushrods?
Jon

It does change the location of the pushrod in the intake holes, but usually the pushrods will still clear.  Best thing to do is dummy it up and use a penlight to look down the holes, and see if you are close anywhere.  If you are, rotate the engine over so you can see if there is any rubbing or interference; in that case you may have to clearance the inside of the pushrod holes a little.  No big deal, usually...

[Saltshaker]

Does anyone make a thicker LR intake gasket? A gasket at .090 would of worked. The reason for 2 gaskets is there is a .012 gap on #8 all other cylinders are good. The gead and intake were checked with a straight edge and were straight. I had thought about just glaring a .30 gasket to the intake gasket for that 1 port.... This seamed easier
Jon

[cjshaker]

Sounds like you have problems elsewhere that need to be addressed. Having ONE port that far off is pretty odd, and trying to add just one gasket to that port is a bad band-aid fix. Adding 2 gaskets will just cause problems with the other ports. The intake and head may check ok with a straight edge, but that doesn't mean they were machined parallel.

In my opinion, you need to find out where the machining or fitment issue is and fix it properly. Otherwise you will be chasing other problems down the road in a short time.

[Saltshaker]

2 gaskets did not work, looks like either a shim or milling the intake to match the heads is the way to fix it!
Jon

[fe66comet]

This is all a new one to me??? I know they make offset head dowels but trying to straiten something that is not on the same plane is kinda hard. If you mill the intake you would have to mill it crooked, something a machine shop is not going to be so enthusiastic to do. If you mill a part it is to true it not to make it off center, it will be hard to turn a strait intake flange into a banana it just does not work that way.

[cjshaker]

Since the intake and head checked straight with a straight-edge, it sounds to me as if the intake, or head, or both, are already milled crooked or not parallel. Some careful and judicious measuring should be done to find out where the problem lies before it's made worse by just milling one side of the intake to "correct" the problem. If they truly are straight (but not parallel), then the problem is also present in the other ports but maybe just not as noticeable as #8.

[Saltshaker]

The problem with it not sitting right at #8 didn 't make sense. I found the tab from the head gadket was pushing on the gadket and after straighting it out and playing with a few gaskets I found one that let the intake sit without a clearence issue. I'm using a MR Gasket LR gasket and have glued it to the head with 3m weather aheasive.... Hope this holds it in place. What would you put around the ports,
More 3m, motorcraft 7.3 silcone or permatex permashield which is gas resistant??
If this doesn't work, it's going to the machine shop
Jon

[My427stang]

I don't do this with all, but if I have a problem child....

3M the gasket exactly where you want it, and don't be afraid to do it around each port, put some on the head, some on the gasket, then attach glue to glue after the glue is tacky.

Do whatever you are going to do on the china walls, Right Stuff, Motorcraft, end seals, your choice

Just before you set the intake on, put a swipe of RTV around each port on the now locked solid intake gasket, and bolt the intake on.  The wet RTV will initially let the intake move as you tighten and leaves your gasket staying in place (the ends anyway, the middle is held by the head gasket tabs), but I like to think it helps seal things up afterwards on the problem children too.

Remember though, sometimes on odd combinations the intake bolts can hit the intake before the intake settles down completely.  So you may want to do one gentle dry fit and look into the intake bolt holes to see how the threads line up. 

If the threads are above the centerline of the intake bolt hole, you are in trouble because the bolts will hit the intake as the threads try to pull it downward.  At that point you either open up the intake holes or dig deeper to get things fit properly, basically fitting the manifold to whatever someone else did to your block

[Saltshaker]

To help line this up I put studs in on one side andcan slide the intake on. Tried a dry this way and the bolts went in easy on the other side. Going to get this on later today
Thnx
Jon

[cjshaker]

Weatherstrip adhesive is not the best choice. It's not rated for heat or for contact with fuel. Also, using studs and sliding the intake on on one side is not the best choice as it can disrupt the other gaskets. It should be gently sat directly down with minimal movement to align everything. But FIRST it should be dry fitted so you know everything is going to fit properly and end gaps can be checked. You still don't know where the problem lies, so throwing different gaskets on it hasn't fixed the issue.

Fitting FE intakes can be a pain, particularly on 45 year old parts that have been milled over the years, especially by machinists who aren't familiar with the issues. That's why it's important to check the fitment before finally assembly.

[Lenz]

Also don't forget to set the distributor as a guide while all this other wrangling is going on to properly locate the intake in the end.  If you get it on a bind you won't be able to adjust timing and may end up with an oil leak problem as well

[Saltshaker]

Thnx
Dizy is in and turns...studs line the intake up and has always worked for me. The 3m was recomended by a engine builder here in NJ to make sure the gaskets would not move durning installation. The motor will sit for at least 24 hrs and then I want to pressurize the intake with maybe 10 or 15 lb of air to make sure it is not leaking...
Let you know how it goes tomorrow
Jon

[My427stang]

Weatherstrip adhesive is not the best choice. It's not rated for heat or for contact with fuel. Also, using studs and sliding the intake on on one side is not the best choice as it can disrupt the other gaskets. It should be gently sat directly down with minimal movement to align everything. But FIRST it should be dry fitted so you know everything is going to fit properly and end gaps can be checked. You still don't know where the problem lies, so throwing different gaskets on it hasn't fixed the issue.

Fitting FE intakes can be a pain, particularly on 45 year old parts that have been milled over the years, especially by machinists who aren't familiar with the issues. That's why it's important to check the fitment before finally assembly.

I am not sure what it's rated for, but many many garages and racers have been using it forever as contact cement for gaskets of all kinds.  My own experience has been since the early to mid 80's on every intake install and never had a comeback to the shop.  I'd actually say the opposite, it is so efficient at locking gaskets in place that undoubtedly it has made for some better installs and prevented pushing gaskets out in some odd designs like oil pans, end seals, and valve covers.

Additionally, every motor I built for my own use has 3M yellow death somewhere in it without a single failure of any kind.  It's not really a sealant, its a contact cement.  So I can't disagree that it doesn't say "FE intake manifolds" on the box, but my professional use alone probably has a sample size enough to say it works great and if you multiply it by the hundreds, if not thousands of mechanics and builders that use it, I think it's a proven product.

I will also add, that especially for the people who won't run end seals, note that on some gasket designs (non-metal core) you really have no way to know if the ends dropped a bit, by gluing them down you know they stay in place without the end seals holding them up

I do agree with everything else, but it would be a shame for him to avoid 3M with its long history.  One word to the wise though, use the yellow 3M, there is some black and non-hardening black that is not the same