repaint over clear/base coat

[hbstang]

i have a 69 mustang that was painted in 2002 with base/clear.its still in great shape,but i want to redo whats on the car.i have eastwood roll on epoxy/urethane primer for it,but do i need to remove clear or just sand and primer over it?

[gregaba]

I would sand the old clear coat and get a good primer. The roll on stuff is ok for frames and anywhere no one see's but will look terrible on the outside of the car.
If doing a color change you will have to put the time and effort to get a good job that's looks decent.
If you do just decide to use the roll on stuff, sand the car and then mix bullydog adhesion promoter per directions and apply.
Good luck
Greg

[cammerfe]

At one time in the past, I'm told, Rolls Royce used brushed-on laquer. Then the paint was sanded until acceptible and then polished. Then you have a truly hand-done paint job!

KS

[gregaba]

It is all most the same today but you can't get laquer anymore. I take that back I just remembered that the auto part stores sell a pre mixed laquer [Dupli Coat I think.]
What we do is just spray a couple of extra coats of clear and then color sand and polish.
Makes for a shine that you can see forever into but a lot of extra hour's involved.
Greg

[machoneman]

At one time in the past, I'm told, Rolls Royce used brushed-on laquer. Then the paint was sanded until acceptible and then polished. Then you have a truly hand-done paint job!

KS

True! Grandpa John worked as an underage teen at the Packard plant IIRC in NYS. Lacquer paint was brushed on say north-south, It dried before the next station, where more was applied in a criss-cross manner, then again east-west. Sanded between coats too. When finished, he said it was equal to a spray job which came years later. 

[RustyCrankshaft]

If the existing paint is in good shape then scuff it, spray some sealer and whatever top you'd like. Any spots where the clear has damage sand it back to good material before spraying sealer.

You can make roll/brush on stuff look ok, but with modern paint materials it's spending a LOT of time you don't need to. Unless you just really want to spray lacquer, but it's not nearly as durable a finish. It does have a look you can't quite duplicate with anything else.

[hbstang]

thanks for the replys.the primer is roll on.its made that way.not a sray on.here is a video.
i am prepping the car my self to save money and time.not.lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAkV-n3in4I&t=1s

[RustyCrankshaft]

That primer will work fine, but if you want a decent finish that will last it is definitely NOT the product to use. That roll on stuff just doesn't work very well and you will have adhesion issues after awhile. It's great for truck beds and utility trailers. Find a Napa that sells paint, their house brand stuff is actually Sherwin Williams and is decent stuff and pretty inexpensive. If you don't have one close buy, then get some the Summit racing branded 2k (I believe it's Kirker but have also seen reference to DuPont). Also good stuff for the money, it sands easy and doesn't shrink excessively. If you have a paint store nearby see if they carry Transtar and get some of that 2k primer. Also an inexpensive but good primer. I worked in a shop that we painted all our trucks (not pickups) with Sherwin Williams/Napa products and the stuff worked well. Probably not going to use it on a Concourse car, but its good enough for a "nice" refinish and holds up well.

I've used some of Eastwoods paint products and their primers, topcoats and fillers really are not impressive and for the price there is better stuff around.

[gregaba]

Another affordable paint that really impressed me is Urechem.
We used PPG paint systems in our shop since the 90's and used Dupont if the customer [Budweiser] demanded it but our preference has all ways been PPG.
The problem with PPG is they decided their product's are the same value as gold- ie one ounce gold equal's one ounce PPG [LOL].
I have been looking for a reasonable priced paint to use in my home shop and tried Omni, and a lot of other's.
I found this Urechem and It is all most as good as the PPG.
If PPG is a 10 I would give the Ure Kem an 8 rating.
Very good paint for the dollar and if you use the whole system you can get a great paint job.
Greg

[RustyCrankshaft]

I agree with all of that. Omni is good, but PPG use so little pigment you have to use a LOT more product and I've never really found a lot of savings with it.

Urechem is good stuff for the price, I forgot about them. I've painted 2 of my semi trucks and an Impala with it and was happy with the results. PPG is good stuff, but you are right, the price is getting ridiculous. 

[HarleyJack17]

Not to hijack a thread but it is not often paint work comes up. My '03 Super Duty has a clear coat problem. All of the hood/roof has lifted and gone, and now a bed side is starting.
Would sanding the clear off/back to clear that is still "stuck", then seal, prime, paint/clear work? I have just wondered how to approach this issue....lifting due to age, and sun.

[gregaba]

No
All you have to do is sand off the clear coat and re clear.
No need to reprime etc.
We had to do a ton of these in the late 80's and early 90's on the GM car's.
Just be sure you don't sand off the base coat or you will have to start at the beginning.
Greg

[HarleyJack17]

Thanks Greg.

[gregaba]

You are welcome.
We used DA sanders but I would use a soft block sanding block if you don't have a ton of experence with a Da.
Do it by hand using 400 or 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper [keep it wet-don't let it dry] and take your time.
Be carefull around all the creases and body line's as you can sand though them real easy. You might want to use scothbrite pad's lightly on those.
Good luck
Greg