Finally a brake upgrade

[RustyCrankshaft]

Depending on how big the leak is, even without the valve working you may still be able to generate enough pressure to stop with a dual chamber master but it won't be great. If the valve is working then it's a noticeable improvement if stopping with only one circuit. Used to see this all the time with the Ford vans we had at work. They were always either blowing a rear wheel cylinder or in the winter a tire chain would wipe out a brake line. If the valve shuttled the pedal was low but halfway firm, if the valve was stuck pedal (like CW McCall said) went right to the floor and felt sorta like stepping on a plumb....but you'd still have a little brake pressure.

Yep, backing up is what adjusts the brakes. Some designs you can get enough rock on the shoes with the parking brake while slowly moving forward but it isn't as reliable.

I always use a high quality light coat of either hi-temp caliper grease or usually good quality anti-seize because it isn't' sticky to lube the adjusters after they are cleaned up really well. Always had pretty good luck with drum brakes if they're set up well.

[TJ]

I tend to think a dual mc should stop you faster than a single mc if the pressure front to rear is adjusted right.  I've locked the rear wheels on my '65 pickup a couple times and thought a dual mc might help that.  One time I was on dry concrete and had a ton in the bed.  Another time I was on wet black top with 2 ton in the bed.  Occurred to me a dual mc would allow me to divert more pressure to the front and help keep the rear from locking up.

[BattlestarGalactic]

Well, it's taken a few weeks to finally get back on this project.   Had quite the deal to work through last night just to get the rear brake line attached to the proportioning valve.  Ugh.

Had to pull the drivers fender to get the inner fender out of the way.  That of course meant I had to remove the grille, headlight bucket and drop the front bumper.  Geez o pete.  This thing better stop on a dime and spit out 8 cents change!!!




Shortened the original line about 3" and reflared it. 



I got the master cylinder bled and the lines attached.  I seem to have a leaker on the PV?  Going to have to pull that little line and inspect the flare.  I'm going to get everything bled up before I go through all the work of getting the front end back on.  I'm not pulling all this crap again!!  I only knicked the edge of the door a couple times getting the fender out.  Glad it's black and easy to dab some touch up on the corner.  Not the first time it's gotten some rash on it during the last 22 yrs since it was painted.