Thanks all.  I don't think you pay capital gains on sale of primary home, at least not federal up to a certain $'s, especially if you can show cost of all improvements etc., to write it down.
Yes, part of my increase is certainly caused by replacement cost coverage, replacement cost jumped the last 2 years, that $ value is way higher than my tax or even street value.
AAA and Progressive/Homestead quotes might be competitive but one does not read good things about Homestead homeowners and not sure of these providers in general. 

I have a wide ratio C6 from Broader in my thunderbird, ~500hp, I abuse it quite a bit, nice crisp gear changes, not great traction so I wouldn't call it hard use at all but no issues in 4 years.   

Thanks for all the feedback thus far.
Not sure I can run a Taurus fan, oh the stories I could tell about my 94 taurus wagon!

While I do not recall specifics on the aluminum radiator I bought it was a good one at the time from what I remember.
I just don't think I am pulling much air, fan blades are ~1" back from the rad. face and it has to pull through radiator and condensor, and even the oil cooler for part of it and like I said shroud is a home brew not sealed well to the fan blades.

More questions:
1.  Do you guys typically run 2 smaller fans (as large as will fit) or 1 as large as will fit?
2.  Do you use one of those temp. sense switches, on at say 185, off at 175?
3.  Scott throws caution at running an electric fan only, others thoughts on this if quality of all components is good?
     (i can imagine I would install an overide switch to run full time in case of controls failure)

Back to the Taurus, once had the Ford regional customer rep. tell me that the reason the electric window motors died and windows stopped working (motors/gear box got wet) at 3.1 years old (out of warranty) was because I did not take it to a dealer for routine maintenance.  That must have been why the trans started slipping at 3.6 years of age and under 61000 miles (out of warranty) and why the head gaskets went by 90k miles.  Did I mention the rear tires wore very excessively due to alignment issue right from the factory?  Maybe I'm confusing that with my 2000 era ford trucks that used to eat coil packs, blew spark plugs, head gaskets, and trans as well.  Why I bought more Fords back then I'll never know.

Thanks all for any additonal feedback provided!  Happy winter.

I'm not familiar with the position/clearance or not of the seal on this specific distributor so take this for what it is worth.
If your only goal is a seal replacement, cut the old one off if it lifts up far enough to get at it, slit the new at an angle(wedge), install, splice, and move on.
This is of course a hack but better than the possibility of opening up a can of worms if you have to get too aggressive or disassemble too much.
Heck you could probably even use some old impregnated rope gasket and get a good seal.     

Thanks everyone, sounds like the swap is easy, as for the 289 build, I am sure there are plenty of those documented out there I can emulate to get what I want.
The EFI piece was just to build something that style, still be somewhat aggressive but totally streetable, finding that compromise if you will and yeah without breaking the bank.

Just another 1 to 1 perspective here, dual forward/normal facing quick fuels on an RPM air gap. (required offset spacers)
I did it for better distribution in a unique manifold/carb combo, to be different, and for the setup challenge as a newbie, it was a challenge.
70mph cruise comes in by 1/8 throttle at most so there is a lot of dialing in to do at idle/transition and barely into mains for no-hassle street use.
I like it, it's fun, be ready for some carb. tuning though and it is a pain to have to pull at least one carb to get to mains. (not an issue for sideways of course)
I think the pedal to carb linkage in my Thunderbird is mostly linear, a non-linear linkage yet retain 1 to 1 would improve low speed throttle control.
And yes, it's a pig for anything other than constant throttle cruise, maybe I'll make it a hybrid!

On the fuel delivery side of things:
Pull idle mixture screws out and give the inlets a light blow to clear any gunk and junk.
Worked for me 35 years ago on a Holley, why not now?
Same goes for bleeds as needed.

So of course I installed the bearings correctly now but visually see no reason for U and L in this case for rod bearings.  Does anyone know what the difference is and why, just curious.  General reading says it is to put large chamfer on crank side for clearance but the chamfers on the bearings vary some and that area has tons of clearance regardless, at least on the SCAT crank and rod setup I have.