Author Topic: affordable oil to use for a run and dump  (Read 4087 times)

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westcoastgalaxie

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affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« on: September 27, 2018, 10:33:26 AM »
I am putting the 410 back together after a coolant leak in the oil and top end rebuild (didn't touch the cam or lifters). It was never milk shaky, just snot in the valve covers and under the manifold. I will of course dump the old oil and filter then run it for a cycle and dump the oil and filter again. I normally run brad penn, but don't see the need to spend the $$ and time (local dealer is a ways away and keeps limited hours) for a run and dump like this. What are folks using these days, non synthetic, for solid lifter motors? I know Valvoline VR1 used to be popular, so was Rotella (don't remember which flavor). Are these still good candidates for high ZDPP? What other affordable options are out there for this purpose? Thanks

Phil Brown

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2018, 01:15:15 PM »
To me the 5 or 6 qts. Of Brad Penn is a lot cheaper than the cam and lifters :D
I know what you're saying, but why take any chance when in the end it's not really that much money

cattleFEeder

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2018, 01:22:27 PM »
To me the 5 or 6 qts. Of Brad Penn is a lot cheaper than the cam and lifters :D
+1 They make more oil.
Remember, RPM is your friend

Falcon67

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2018, 02:00:23 PM »
VR-1 Racing oil should be good.  Been there with a leak - ran it 5 minutes, filled the motor with milk.  Tore it down, cleaned, used the pump to run kerosene through the motor, then ATF, then oil.  Re-assembled, finished break in.That cam is still in the motor - good 12 years now.

westcoastgalaxie

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2018, 05:27:42 PM »
I hear ya, but if VR-1 or Rotella will do the job for a run and dump why bother driving two hours and fighting traffic? And to be clear the cam and lifters in this motor are already broke in, just need operating protection. I know oils are subject to change so I did not want to assume what was good 4 years ago is still good today. Thanks for the confirm.

chris401

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2018, 07:11:18 PM »
I am putting the 410 back together after a coolant leak in the oil and top end rebuild (didn't touch the cam or lifters). It was never milk shaky, just snot in the valve covers and under the manifold. I will of course dump the old oil and filter then run it for a cycle and dump the oil and filter again. I normally run brad penn, but don't see the need to spend the $$ and time (local dealer is a ways away and keeps limited hours) for a run and dump like this. What are folks using these days, non synthetic, for solid lifter motors? I know Valvoline VR1 used to be popular, so was Rotella (don't remember which flavor). Are these still good candidates for high ZDPP? What other affordable options are out there for this purpose? Thanks
I have been running Rotella 15W40 in my FE engines since around 1990 or so. Both mushroom solid and hydrolic lifters. Spring pressure has probably never been over 340 and no taller than .570 +/- lift. I did over zinc one, you can see it embedded into the lifters but it didn't go flat.

ACHiPo

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2018, 04:10:49 PM »
I confirmed with Shell technical support that Rotella T4 15W40 still has 1200 zddp in it.  At ~$13/gal it's hard to beat, especially if you're just going to run and dump.

Coreyc619

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2018, 10:15:25 AM »
Rotella or Delo are both fantastic oils for the money.  Delo is a little better these days, based on our oil analysis lab at work.  Threads on the Bobistheoilguy forum seems to reflect similar results. When comparing/trying to choose between two similar motor oils, a really big clue comes right under the cap.  Typically, if quality control/oil purity is a primary concern, you will find an air tight seal on the container you have to peel off.  Delo has one.  Rotella does not.  For your purposes, either would be fine.  Since your cam/lifters have already "mated", you are not really at risk for damage here unless you run some vegetable oil or something like that.  Another commonly overlooked tip:  SHAKE the oil jug before adding all of its contents.  Additives will settle out and rest on the bottom of the jug, rather than making it to the inside of your motor.  We "turn over" our bulk oil tanks on our large equipment quarterly in an effort to extend reliability/MTBR (mean time between repair).

I realize the thread is kind of old, but should this turn up in a search for someone else later - had to add some info.  I run Delo in everything I own.  Motorcycles, lawn mowers, hot rods... everything.

cjshaker

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2018, 11:47:23 AM »
Corey, is there any type of 'shelf life' for motor oils? I have a stock of Rotella that is probably 5+ years old and was wondering how long it would be good sitting on a shelf.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

FrozenMerc

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2018, 12:34:59 PM »
I will add another recommendation for the Rotella 15w40 Diesel Oil too.  Great product for the money. 

chris401

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2018, 04:52:02 PM »
Rotella or Delo are both fantastic oils for the money.  Delo is a little better these days, based on our oil analysis lab at work.  Threads on the Bobistheoilguy forum seems to reflect similar results. When comparing/trying to choose between two similar motor oils, a really big clue comes right under the cap.  Typically, if quality control/oil purity is a primary concern, you will find an air tight seal on the container you have to peel off.  Delo has one.  Rotella does not.  For your purposes, either would be fine.  Since your cam/lifters have already "mated", you are not really at risk for damage here unless you run some vegetable oil or something like that.  Another commonly overlooked tip:  SHAKE the oil jug before adding all of its contents.  Additives will settle out and rest on the bottom of the jug, rather than making it to the inside of your motor.  We "turn over" our bulk oil tanks on our large equipment quarterly in an effort to extend reliability/MTBR (mean time between repair).

I realize the thread is kind of old, but should this turn up in a search for someone else later - had to add some info.  I run Delo in everything I own.  Motorcycles, lawn mowers, hot rods... everything.
That makes sense. Thanks for positing the tips.

Falcon67

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2018, 09:40:17 AM »
Corey, is there any type of 'shelf life' for motor oils? I have a stock of Rotella that is probably 5+ years old and was wondering how long it would be good sitting on a shelf.

Google shows several notations that 5 years is a generally accepted shelf life.  That would be the additive pack life span I think.

cjshaker

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2018, 07:24:17 PM »
Google shows several notations that 5 years is a generally accepted shelf life.  That would be the additive pack life span I think.

I was afraid of that. Guess I better start using it up or selling it off.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Coreyc619

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2018, 07:29:56 PM »
Corey, is there any type of 'shelf life' for motor oils? I have a stock of Rotella that is probably 5+ years old and was wondering how long it would be good sitting on a shelf.

I'm not an oil expert, but I showed enough interest to get to work with the guys that are for a few weeks a couple years ago.  One of those dudes has since retired and now makes several hundred thousands a year simply consulting overseas. With that said, I know enough to say, that I don't think so.  I still recommend agitating the oil container before adding it to anything, if you want to take full advantage of the contents.

If your container was sealed or stored appropriately, it is extremely unlikely that you lost anything vs the day you bought it. The components of motor oil wouldn't flash off or change shape at any temperature below the boiling point of water.  So whatever you originally bought, is still there.  Some of it just may of settled out by now - or as we say "decanted".  There is a reason why most modern sports cars with oil coolers have a thermostat or some other means of maintaining an approximate oil temp of ~220°F.  The (any accumulated) water leaves, but the components of the oil don't change shape... Or "break down" if you're watching a quaker state commercial.  It's a narrow window however. Common motor oils will deform around 240°F.  This is where synthetic comes in, although useless in 99% of all applications it is used in.  We used to run royal purple in our stuff, but now we run Chevron products.  It wasn't to save a buck - it was because tests right off the truck showed water and other crap already in it.  A problem we don't need.  Forgive me for my education (chemistry is one of my degrees) - but oil's biggest enemies are heat and light.  If you had it on the shelf on your garage, shake it (warm it if you're paranoid, that increases solubility) and run it.  If you stored it on the deck of your beach cabin, chunk it.

To brag a hair... One of my compressors has been running 24/7 since  March of 1991. Small details invested into the bulk lube/seal oil care have certainly contributed to this.  It's the same thing with what we do here.  FE guys are all about the details... I love it.
« Last Edit: October 16, 2018, 07:51:42 PM by Coreyc619 »

cjshaker

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Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2018, 07:24:58 AM »
Thanks for the input, and the advice about shaking it up, which would make sense. I always use the oldest stuff first to keep it rotated best I can, and I have not had or seen any issues despite it being upwards of 8 years old (after thinking about when it was purchased).
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe