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Messages - gwingard

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Ford MG9394 Bellhousing
« on: February 21, 2021, 05:33:03 PM »
To say I was surprised that the Mcleod didn't fit my original bell would be an understatement.  Like a dope I failed to turn the motor over by hand when I first assembled the clutch and transmission.  When I went to start it for the first time the motor turned about 30 degrees and locked up which damaged the trust surfaces on my brand new main bearings.  Was an expensive mistake I'll never make again...

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Ford MG9394 Bellhousing
« on: February 19, 2021, 05:36:30 PM »
Sorry to be so long in getting back on track with this topic.  To answer 427John's question, "gwingard was your Mcleod PP an 11.5/12? If so did it clear the MG bell without grinding?"  My Mcleod PP is an 11 incher.  I didn't do any grinding to make it fit.  This PP did hit on my factory C3AA6394 A bellhousing.  What a nightmare!  I'm really happy that I was able to make the MG9394 work.  Hopefully it keeps working as my clutch wears!

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Ford MG9394 Bellhousing
« on: January 16, 2021, 01:37:10 PM »
Opps, fat fingered the difference in length of the bellhousings.  I think it was .0400. 

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Ford MG9394 Bellhousing
« on: January 16, 2021, 10:55:16 AM »
Wow, what great responses to my query.  To answer 427John's question, I'm running a Ram 1518 flywheel and a McLeod 75212 Street Pro clutch and pressure plate.  My trans is an HEH D toploader.  Sorry that I failed to recognize the date codes when I did the work on the bellhousing but my curiosity about all this isn't strong enough to make me take it all back apart to look!  I had some some issues at the time with not having enough throw out bearing free play but I believe that was due to a defective pressure plate that McLeod replaced for me.  I remember doing a lot of measurements from the engine side of the bell to the trans mount side but sadly I failed to make note of it.  As I recall the MG9394 bell was on the order of .400 longer.  Relocating the lever fulcrum wasn't a big deal as there was plenty of meat in there to work with.  As I also recall, the solid lifter engine core I used in this build has a C5 date code so I guess that the bell I got with the core was from an earlier vehicle.  The stock bell housing in my '64 Merc was a C3AA6394 A and lacked clearance for the McLeod  pressure plate.  I attempted to clearance the original bell but there wasn't quite enough meat on the bones and wound up grinding through it.  I guess it was just plain luck that I had the MG9394 lying around and that it could be made to fit.  Thanks to everyone for all the thoughtful input. 

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FE Technical Forum / Ford MG9394 Bellhousing
« on: January 11, 2021, 06:20:45 PM »
I'm curious to know if anyone out there in FE-land can tell me what vehicles used the MG9394 bellhousing.  I got one of these when I bought solid lifter 390 block but I'm not sure if it actually belonged with said block.  This bellhousing gave me additional pressure plate clearance when I was building a 410 motor with a McLeod clutch for my 1964 Mercury Marauder.  This bell had a smaller release lever window which I modified to accept the modern rubber boot for the release lever.  The release lever fulcrum need to be moved .355 in the direction of the crankshaft to accommodate my Mercury release lever.  After these mods everything worked just fine.  Any info on this bellhousing would be greatly appreciated.

Geoffrey

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Private Classifieds / Re: Time to pass along all my FE parts
« on: September 01, 2020, 07:05:28 PM »
Parts all finally sold.  Thank you to all who inquired!

Geoffrey

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Private Classifieds / Re: Time to pass along all my FE parts.
« on: April 23, 2020, 09:46:33 AM »
I replied to your PM.

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Private Classifieds / Time to pass along all my FE parts
« on: April 22, 2020, 02:33:33 PM »
1972 360 Engine, Good Runner When Removed from Vehicle in June, 2019, Less Distributor, Air Cleaner, Breather Cap and Coil, D2TF JB 2 Barrel Carb, A3FAA Generator, 8-Misc. 428 Rods, Bellhousing, 153 Tooth Flywheel, Inertia Starter, Damper, Stainless Steel Shorty Headers, driver's side has one modified tube, 2 Pairs of Stock Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds.

Here's a link to a video of the motor running:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3ak1ezfnze8zdh/360%20FE%20Motor%20Running.MOV?dl=0

First $400 cash takes all, no individual item sales and no trades. Parts located in Columbus, Ohio.


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Private Classifieds / C6AE 9425-G Intake and Carb For Sale
« on: March 09, 2020, 04:44:30 PM »
C6AE 9425-G Intake and 4 Barrel Carb For Sale.  Price Reduced!  Manifold should clean up and be serviceable but I'd feel better representing the carb as a core.  I don't know what the carb is so please have a look at the photos.   Both for $75.00 in Columbus, Ohio.

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As per our phone conversation, the stock rectangular style rear dump exhaust manifolds will work fine.  I bought a set of cheap stainless Chinese shortie headers that I tried to beat into submission without success.  I didn't try any other aftermarket headers so I can't speak to whether or not Hooker Headers might work.  I'm running Edelbrock heads on my car which are slightly wider than the stock iron heads which contributed to my clearance issues.  I'm attaching a couple pictures showing the driver's side clearance on my car when I attempted to use the tubular shortie headers.  Thanks,  Geoffrey

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Rack and Pinion Steering Conversion Kit for full size 1960-1964 Ford/Mercury

Wurth-It Designs Power Rack and Pinion Conversion Kit for full size 1960-1964 Ford and Mercury cars.  I purchased this kit in 2007 from Wurth-It Designs for my 1964 Mercury Marauder.  The parts sat unopened in my shop until June of 2019 when I finally found the time and money to start on my project.  When I originally purchased the kit from the late Mr. Wurth I asked if it could be used with the factory the Ford high performance cast iron long tube headers that I had scrounged up several years prior for my FE 390 motor.  At that time he told me that my headers probably wouldn't work but being the consummate damn the torpedoes type, I disregarded his suggestions and purchased the kit anyway.  Fast forward to 2019 and after finally installing the kit If found that Mr. Wurth was correct, I was unable to use the kit with my headers.  I attempted to grind clearance in the passenger side rack mount and got the needed clearance there but I could not make them fit on the driver's side.  Also because my ride is a 4 speed car, I had to modify the Wurth-It supplied inner steering shaft support which was designed to bolt into the factory Mercury frame using the holes for the clutch Z-Bar mount.  My mods to the shaft support worked just fine. 

The bottom line here is that I really wanted to use the big cast headers and begrudgingly returned to my original steering system.  This set-up was never run in my car and the time has now come to pass the Wurth-It kit on to a new owner.  It will work perfectly with the small factory cast iron headers and I'm sure the clever builder could whip up a custom set of tubular headers to work as well.  I tried to modify an inexpensive set of shorty tubular headers to no avail.  I opted to use my car's original steering column which necessitated removing the factory rag joint flange and fabricating a UHMW polymer steering shaft bearing for the low end of the column.  I also secured the proper steering u-joints to attach the stock column to the new rack.  These parts and complete instructions are included with the kit.  Below is text from Mr. Wurth's original website detailing the product:

" For many classic Ford owners, a car that isn't up to today's driving characteristics can sometimes offset the joy of ownership. Some owners are known to comment that they "love their classic Ford, but can't stand the steering". This is the case with 57- 64 model year Fords. Our Conversions  put an end to the problems associated with the out dated factory worm and sector steering boxes. No more excessive play, leaking steering rams, and exhaust manifold clearance problems associated with engine swaps (even the big 460 or the newer 4.6 overhead cam engines.) There are other steering box options (i.e. GM 605) out there to be sure,  but why use a modified box of similar design when you can bolt in a modern rack and pinion with our conversion and have  the steering response that modern day automobiles have. The steering ratio is 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. If the rack ever needs to be replaced you can buy one at any auto parts store. You will appreciate this if you have ever had a specialty part break while you were on a trip and the only place you could get that part was from the custom shop that made it.  Our R & P mounting brackets are made from 3/8 inch steel to insure strength and eliminate any flexing in the steering system. Our goal was to make available a system that is easy to install without compromising,  modifying,  or altering any part of the stock factory frame.  We have met that goal and now offer these Rack and Pinion conversions to you!  THIS IS A TRUE BOLT- ON APPLICATION!! NO HEATING, CUTTING, DIMPLING, DRILLING AND WELDING OF THE FRAME IS NECESSARY!!!  You can use stock 60-64 Ford spindles, Ford Granada or 77-79 T-Bird-Cougar spindles & disc brake swap with this conversion. Other spindles may (also) apply. "

True to his claims and following the instructions, the kit bolted right in with no problems.  Had I not been stymied by the header problem I would have left the unit in my car.  The grinding I did on the passenger side mount for header clearance will in no way affect the integrity of the unit.  You may need to drill and tap a new hole in your frame for the intermediate steering shaft support due to my modifications to the one that came with the kit.  Had I stuck with the unit I probably would have welded mount to my frame for my own peace of mind.  The kit came with tie rod ends that I unfortunately banged up when uninstalling the system from my car but they will also go with the kit.  Since this is a power rack, unused hoses are included and the unit can be used with your factory steering pump.  As you may have gathered from this lengthy description, I'll be glad to provide any additional assistance you might need to install this in your vehicle.   Yours for $1100, located in Columbus, OH.






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Ford FE Starter, NAPA Power Premium Remanufactured and unused for 184 tooth flywheel.  I bought it for my project car but I wound up needing a smaller form factor unit for my application.  $50.00. 

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Private Classifieds / 1972 Ford FE 360 Motor, Good Runner
« on: February 12, 2020, 08:15:29 PM »
Good running 1972 Ford FE 360 motor. 2 barrel carb is leaky and needs rebuilt. Motor doesn't smoke and was recently pulled from a project car. Distributor, damper, breather cap, ignition coil and air cleaner not included. Manual transmission flywheel, starter, bell housing, cast iron 4 barrel manifold and iron exhaust manifolds are also available and reasonably priced. Here's a link to a video of the motor running:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3ak1ezfnze8zdh/360%20FE%20Motor%20Running.MOV?dl=0

$400.00

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