Hello, old friend

[AlanCasida]

I pulled my 427/452 out of the corner of the shop tonight. I don't think it's seen the light of day in over 10 years so it was good to see it again. Now I'm ready to start on some upgrades. Since it's set for so long do you think I should disassemble and inspect it or just pre oil it real good. I am planning on a head/intake change as well as a cam change. I doubt the motor has 300 miles on it since I built it.

[mbrunson427]

This isn't an answer to your question, but.....

On the last engine I built I decided to use some header paint on the exhaust runners as a primer, then sprayed normal high temp engine paint over the whole engine. Seems to be working super well so far. I believe VHT makes some header paint in ford blue.

[cjshaker]

If your shop is heated, or if it doesn't collect moisture even if it's unheated, then I'd just prime it and start it. If it collects moisture bad in cold months, I might check the cylinders since they're always the dry spots on engines. Since you're planning on a head change anyway, that will be an easy one.

Gotta like it when you can just "pull out" a complete 427 that's sitting in the corner

[AlanCasida]

Gotta like it when you can just "pull out" a complete 427 that's sitting in the corner

Hah! I guess that does make me sound kind of like one of the big dogs.    But trust me I'm just a pup.

My shop is heated and does not draw moisture so I'll just look it over when I pull the top end. I need to swap pans too so I'll scope the bottom end out for anything obvious.

[My427stang]

I'd reseal it, at the least rear main, timing cover and pan gasket.  Flipping it upside-down and sticking a main seal in it is easier now than once it's in! 

[Tommy-T]

I know what you mean, Alan.

I walk past my 'ol 454 incher every day. I've used the peripherals off of it for my blown car, but the LeMans rod, 1UB crank, TRW L2298 piston short block remains together. Still has the 308R cam in it that ran 11 flat in my street Mustang. I think it last ran in 2005 or so.

I beat the crap out'a it since 1985 with various cams and such, but the short block remained the same with a couple of fresh-ups through the years. She's been a good, faithful, old girl.

It's going to get used in my '65 Cyclone hopefully fairly soon...although I think I'll swap in a four-and-a-quarter crank kit.

[blykins]

Mr. T, is the timing chain as loose as it looks?   

[Tommy-T]

Yes it is.

I have been very unimpressed with the Rollmaster product, and have used Cloyes since the teardown of this engine.

As long as we're critique'n the shortbock, looks like the piston was tapp'n the head at the base of the dome...and the 2.250 intake was skim'n the relief on the slug as well.

The good news is that I put the home sprayed Tech Line thermal barrier on the pistons in the early '90's, and it hasn't flaked off at all.

 

[jayb]

That Rollmaster set has the "good" Iwis timing chain with the solid rollers on it.  Supposed to be the best chain out there, but it still stretches with a little use.  I had the same thing happen with a Cloyes set that used that chain, after 3000 miles it was loose as a goose, just like yours.  I think that all timing chains will stretch somewhat after initial installation and a few thousand miles of use.  I guess as long as they don't break, its OK...

[machoneman]

Which is why it pays to either advance a cam a tad on initial installation or afterwards, do so once stretch is noted. That or a new chain. 

And yes, you need to shave a tad off the intake pads (laterally) and some off each dome too. This you already know! 

[jayb]

Which is why it pays to either advance a cam a tad on initial installation or afterwards, do so once stretch is noted. That or a new chain. 

That issue is one of the reasons I build my timing covers with the removable front plate, and the timing sets with the cam timing adjustment at the top gear.  Once the chain stretches, you just go in there and re-set the cam timing.